stevelyn
Member
MPro-7 to clean.
Break-Free CLP for lube and and field cleaning.
Brownell's Action Lube Plus when I need grease.
Break-Free CLP for lube and and field cleaning.
Brownell's Action Lube Plus when I need grease.
Gun Cleaners / Lubes. What do you use?
- Thread starter Walkalong
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m0ntels
Member
Kroil or BreakFree CLP
orionengnr
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2005
- Messages
- 5,712
Hoppe's #9
Eezox
Shooter's choice (occasionally)
Carb cleaner is a bad idea (especially if you have plastic or rubber part on your gun. Brake cleaner is a much better idea.
WD-40 is okay if you dropped your pistol in the lake. That's about the only time WD-40 would come near my guns (do a search).
Eezox
Shooter's choice (occasionally)
Carb cleaner is a bad idea (especially if you have plastic or rubber part on your gun. Brake cleaner is a much better idea.
WD-40 is okay if you dropped your pistol in the lake. That's about the only time WD-40 would come near my guns (do a search).
thebaldguy
Member
Quick spray with carb cleaner - avoid plastic and wood
Lead away cloth for stainless revolvers if needed
Hoppes' #9 or Remington Bore cleaner if really fouled
CLP for lube
Firearms in the safe get wiped down occasionally with silicone cloth with extra spritz of silicone in cloth
Lead away cloth for stainless revolvers if needed
Hoppes' #9 or Remington Bore cleaner if really fouled
CLP for lube
Firearms in the safe get wiped down occasionally with silicone cloth with extra spritz of silicone in cloth
slylikea_fox
Member
montana extreme 50 bmg.
heypete
Member
I use CLP for cleaning everything from my Ruger MkIII to my Browning M1919A4. For days when I know I'll be shooting the M1919 a bit more than usual, I'll squirt a little bit of 10W-30 motor oil onto the bearing parts, as I figure it's less likely to get thrown around like the CLP does.
CLP for cleaning all the guns, but occasionally some aerosol RemOil for oiling the 1919 (it's a BIG gun, and it's a pain in the butt to clean and lubricate thoroughly with a little bottle of CLP and q-tips). Works well enough for me.
Before I moved, I had a gallon or so of Ed's Red that I use to great effect. The ATF/Kero/Mineral Spirits/Acetone blend smells like [unmentionable], but is highly effective at cleaning carbon and other stuff. It's really cheap at $13/gallon too (CLP's around $50-$60/gallon). I then used a 50/50 blend of ATF/Kero to oil guns, also to great effect.
Pro-Shot "Pro-Gold Lubricant" (grease) works great on my M1 Garand, and sticks around during heavy and hot firing. I really like it, and should look at using it on the 1919 instead of motor oil.
In short: CLP, Ed's Red, a wee bit of RemOil, and some Pro-Gold grease. Really can't go wrong with any of that.
CLP for cleaning all the guns, but occasionally some aerosol RemOil for oiling the 1919 (it's a BIG gun, and it's a pain in the butt to clean and lubricate thoroughly with a little bottle of CLP and q-tips). Works well enough for me.
Before I moved, I had a gallon or so of Ed's Red that I use to great effect. The ATF/Kero/Mineral Spirits/Acetone blend smells like [unmentionable], but is highly effective at cleaning carbon and other stuff. It's really cheap at $13/gallon too (CLP's around $50-$60/gallon). I then used a 50/50 blend of ATF/Kero to oil guns, also to great effect.
Pro-Shot "Pro-Gold Lubricant" (grease) works great on my M1 Garand, and sticks around during heavy and hot firing. I really like it, and should look at using it on the 1919 instead of motor oil.
In short: CLP, Ed's Red, a wee bit of RemOil, and some Pro-Gold grease. Really can't go wrong with any of that.
TimboKhan
Member
My setup is pretty simple.
Hoppes
Break-Free in the big can to blow crap out.
Rem-oil
Tetra-Lube.
Hot water and dishsoap for the corrosive ammo.
Hoppes
Break-Free in the big can to blow crap out.
Rem-oil
Tetra-Lube.
Hot water and dishsoap for the corrosive ammo.
TYY
Member
Hoppes elite to clean (I like the smell of #9 but it gets me sneezing something awful)
FP-10 to lube
Both have minimal and pleasant odor and work great.
FP-10 to lube
Both have minimal and pleasant odor and work great.
scout26
Member
For many years:
Hoppes #9 to clean and Breakfree CLP to protect. Occasionaly would use Foaming Bore Cleaner.
Testing Ed's Red now. Seems pretty good so far.
Hoppes #9 to clean and Breakfree CLP to protect. Occasionaly would use Foaming Bore Cleaner.
Testing Ed's Red now. Seems pretty good so far.
NORTEXED
Member
I like Sweets 7.62 for cleaning, and from an old post, a very important lesson for me:
"After the fluff and buff, I stumbled upon MILITEC-1 lube, (the oil), which I now swear by, so I dissasembled the piece again (along with everything else I owned) and treated it. You clean everything real well (like alcohol or degreaser), warm up the metal parts with a blow dryer, wipe them down good with Militec-1, let it set for a while, and wipe it down dry. That stuff works wonders. Even after the dry wipe, the surface is super slick and the piece functions so smooth, you won't believe it, and the dry surface doesn't attract dust and pocket lint. I had treated my carry knife (a CRKT M-16 12) with it as described, and then lost it for 10-12 months. When I found it, it was in the bottom of a cleaning kit (BIG TACKLE BOX) in which some blueing had spilled, (and that crap is corrosive). A bunch of the stuff in there was rusty, but not the knife, it was amazing."
"After the fluff and buff, I stumbled upon MILITEC-1 lube, (the oil), which I now swear by, so I dissasembled the piece again (along with everything else I owned) and treated it. You clean everything real well (like alcohol or degreaser), warm up the metal parts with a blow dryer, wipe them down good with Militec-1, let it set for a while, and wipe it down dry. That stuff works wonders. Even after the dry wipe, the surface is super slick and the piece functions so smooth, you won't believe it, and the dry surface doesn't attract dust and pocket lint. I had treated my carry knife (a CRKT M-16 12) with it as described, and then lost it for 10-12 months. When I found it, it was in the bottom of a cleaning kit (BIG TACKLE BOX) in which some blueing had spilled, (and that crap is corrosive). A bunch of the stuff in there was rusty, but not the knife, it was amazing."
texgunner
Member
What's the beef with PTFE/teflon? Many people really don't seem to like it. I'm not trying to flame, just curious.
Tex
W Turner
Member
Ed's Red for cleaning, with Hoppe's #9 serving as backup
Non chlorinated brake cleaner for spraying everything off
Break Free for lube
I need to get a good bore solvent one of thee days, but just don't have much need right now.
W
Non chlorinated brake cleaner for spraying everything off
Break Free for lube
I need to get a good bore solvent one of thee days, but just don't have much need right now.
W
ArchAngelCD
Member.
Hoppe's #9
Hoppe's Copper Solvent
Remington Oil or Outers Gun Oil
Lead Away cleaning rag (when needed)
As for corrosive ammo, an old timer told me to shoot some Windex down the barrel and let it sit a few minutes before normal cleaning. I guess the ammonia does the job.
Hoppe's Copper Solvent
Remington Oil or Outers Gun Oil
Lead Away cleaning rag (when needed)
As for corrosive ammo, an old timer told me to shoot some Windex down the barrel and let it sit a few minutes before normal cleaning. I guess the ammonia does the job.
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