Gun Cleaning Confusion

[perpster]

Back when I first became introduced to gun cleaning about 20 years ago, there was solvent and there was oil. Now I read that one liquid does it all: cleaning, lubricating and rust protection. Can this be true??

I want to give my firearms, knives and axes the best cleaning and rust protection possible. It seems odd to me that one substance can both clean shooting by-products AND and prevent rust. I am under the impression that a solvent is needed to clean a gun after shooting, and that an oil is needed to lubricate metal-to-metal friction points and to protect from rust. Have I missed some technological developments in the last 20 years? My standard Hoppes kit has a SOLVENT and an OIL. Is this no longer needed; can one substance do it all?

 

[dmftoy1]

I'd like an answer to that one too! One thing I noticed on the Hoppe's #9 now is that they recommend running a saturated patch down the barrel when you're done cleaning to "protect" it until you shoot it the next time. So I guess it's a one-stop shop thing also.

 

[P12]

can one substance do it all?

Yes. But I will not buy a store bought cleaner any more.

I made my own all in one cleaner and lube by modifying Ed’s Red bore cleaner.

I used the following:

25% (K1) Kerosene
25% Mineral Spirits
25% Acetone
25% Power steering fluid.

I used power steering fluid instead of Dextron transmission fluid because I can’t stand the smell of Dextron tranny fluid.

It works very well. Shake well, then drop in your handgun (grips removed) let it soak a few minutes. I used a partially filled empty (new) gallon paint can. Remove scrub with a toothbrush, pipe cleaners, bore brush and swabs as needed. Rinse by re-dunking. Blow off with compressed air or let air dry (all the solvents will evaporate leaving only the oil). Wipe off the outside really well with a lint free cloth. Re-assemble and you’re done.

The bore comes clean after using a wet brush, one wet and one dry swab using a jag. I shoot WWB from Wally World.

The formula holds up well for a full IDPA match and doesn’t smell bad at all. In fact I can’t detect an odor at all.

YMMV

 

[mrmeval]

It's ATF transmission fluid.

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/4653/edsred.htm

Yes. But I will not buy a store bought cleaner any more.

I made my own all in one cleaner and lube by modifying Ed’s Red bore cleaner.

I used the following:

25% (K1) Kerosene
25% Mineral Spirits
25% Acetone
25% Power steering fluid.


YMMV

 

[texgunner]

Breakfree CLP

I've had good luck with this stuff.

 

[SMLE]

Ed's Red...

I mixed up a 1 gallon batch without the acetone, but included the lanoline. It cleans VERY well, and also protects afterwards. I'm going to try a small batch with acetone and no lanoline just for cleaning.

Here is a link for more info on Ed's Red:
http://www.totse.com/en/politics/right_to_keep_and_bear_arms/eds_red.html

 

[entropy]

No one product will be the best for both uses, but as long as you stick to non-corrosive ammo, BreakFree CLP will fill the bill pretty good. Ed's Red is a great bore cleaner, I'm not entirely convinced on it being a good lubricant, however.
For my own guns, many of which are milsurp and shoot corrosive, I use Sweet's 7.62 Bore Solvent for cleaning, and BreakFee CLP for lubrication, except for subzero conditions, then I reclean spotless and use powdered Graphite for lube.

 

[brentwal]

Another +1 for Ed's Red.

 

[wingman]

After 40+ years of shooting/cleaning I use nothing but FP10.

 

[Infidel]

And the moral to this story is: Almost anything will work, even some pretty goofy recipes.

I still think that several things work better than one. Hoppe's #9 to remove powder residue from the bore, Sweet's for copper, Breakfree for general cleaning, lubrication, and protection, and MiliTec grease for locking lugs and slide rails. If there is a good all-in-one, I would vote for Breakfree.