Gun Closet

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MaterDei

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I'm wanting to convert one of my internal closets into a gun closet. Basically I want to eliminate buying an RSC in lieu of converting this closet into a semi-secure gun room.

I have no illusions that this will be a safe replacement so don't want to have that debate. I just want a room that is somewhat inconspicuous and will deter casual thieves.

So... What do you all suggest I do with a standard construction closet to turn it into a gun closet?

The room is about 6' x 6'. The door is a standard hollow core 24" x 80" door. The inside walls are all sheet rocked.

I realize that I can't build a vault but what can I do to make a safe-like closet?

All options and opinions are welcome.

Thanks
 
Hmmm...

Strip the sheetrock out of it and install lengths of rebar through the wall studs every foot or so.

Install two or three layers of 5/8" sheetrock around the interior, top and bottom as fireproofing.

Install a solid-core door. Replace all the screws in the hinges and strike plate with 3" or better hard steel screws. Install a good deadbolt lock, or two, or more. (You can put one on the hinge side, too.

None of those things provide anything close to the security of a safe, and wouldn't stop someone armed with power tools, or even hand tools and more than a few minutes. But they could be enough to deter a less-determined attempt, and will keep the kids out until they find your keys.

Consider some form of "hidden in plain sight" arrangement. Really good (and/or multiple) locks on an interior room tells anyone looking that something interesting is in there. There are some threads here linking to video presentations on some hidden door or hidden storage systems, possibly including a book case that is hinged along one side and completely covers the door.
 
Thanks, Sam. Really good info.

To be clear; I'm not looking for a closet that will keep a professional thief at bay. I have insurance for that.

I'm just wanting to nonchalantly harden an existing closet from the prying eyes of a casual burglar. The outside door should look 'normal'. I should be able to do quite a bit more inside that might be helpful.

The closet door is only 24" wide. I've installed a keyed entry lock that doesn't look too out of place. The inside, however, should give me a lot of options for securing the room. Even a double layer of sheet rock or lining the inside with plywood or some other material would be more than what is there now. Perhaps a steel lined interior would be practical?
 
Most residential burglars are not running around with saws, and if they are, a typical gun safe isn't going to hold up long either. I would simply keep them from easily forcing their way in.

3/4" plywood, with good deck screws into the studs. A solid core door if possible, and a fox style police lock. This will keep them from easily kicking, or prying their way in, while not screaming "valuables".
 
Put in something that will act as an inner door, but give the appearance when the outer door is just a shallow closet. Someone gets in the door, they see a few shirts hanging there, dang, nothing to worth my time here...
 
Such a 'wood' box will not even be fire or child resistant!

Consider putting a safe inside of the closet.

Safes like the Snap Safe, Zannoti etc. can do this.

snapf.jpg
 
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Such a 'wood' box will not even be fire or child resistant!
Click to expand...

I have seen several closets survive fires, and unless the child is going after it with a powered saw, I think it would keep them out just fine.

Contrary to popular belief, most gun safes do not offer anywhere near the protection that they are assumed to. $500 in building materials could likely get you more protection than a $500 gun safe.
 
My lockable closet did not do too well in the house fire. The guns were not destroyed but were all finish damaged by fumes and water.
On the other hand, the pistols in my 30 year old $150 uninsulated Treadlock were untouched.
I realize every fire (and every theft) is different, but I would sure make some attempt at fire protection. I would be sure the door was tight, preferably gasketed some way.
 
Overlay your existing sheetrock with some 16ga. expanded metal, overlay that with 5/8 rock and make another wall extension on the door side in which you can hang a solid door/commercial metal door behind your hollow core. You can put multiple locks on the solid door and no one can see them behind your standard closet door that matches the rest of your house.
If the second jamb and expanded metal are screwed well it will be hell to break into for even a well equipped thief who will probably catch the place on fire if he tries to cut into it. Some metal strapping on the back of the interior door will add as a saw and ram deterrent.
 
I'm keeping it simple and cheap... just making a false wall at the back of a closet. If anyone steals my firearms then it'll be someone I know... and I'm nearly always home these days. All this will do is "hide" them from open sight. It won't help with fires. I have no children here. Any locks on the closet door will serve to let thieves know something of value is inside. Mine will have no locks.

EDIT: The lock option gives me an idea though... make another storage area that's far more conspicuous and add sturdy locks to that... it'll be a decoy in which thieves will "think" that's where I keep my valuables. They'll break in to find a pantry full of chicken noodle soup and Spam.:)
 
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$500 in building materials could likely get you more protection than a $500 gun safe
Click to expand...
My thoughts exactly. I have an unused bedroom in my house. The room itself I'm going to use as a reloading/work room and the closet will become my 'safe'. I suspect that for much less than the cost of a safe large enough for my needs (which won't fit through the closet door, btw) that I can refinish the closet into a reasonable facsimile of an RSC.
 
I'm in construction.... here's what I would do.

Get 3/4" plywood line the walls. screw it in to the studs, using 3" screws 8" pattern +/-

Add another layer of 5/8" Type x (fire rated Drywall) to the inside once that is done. Just use 1-1/4" screws into the plywood. A 12" grid +/- if you want to do better on fire resistance, double layer the 5/8 drwall and stagger the joints. Tape and bed the joints on layer 1 first.

For outlets and light switches, lowes or Home depot should sell extensions for your outlet boxes...

The door will always be the weak point. At a minim get a solid core door, and use thicker & longer screws to screw the hinges and bolt latch area into the studs. then use hardware like an exterior door. If the door swings out, use secured hing pins (They'll know what your asking for at Lowes / Home depot.)

The most budget conscious approach is to replace the door & use a good lock system and line the walls with plywood. You could use a siding type plywood, and just paint it (No drywall finishing). With just that, it would slow someone down. Without... Its 1 kick to the drywall or door and they're in.
 
Wouldn't even have to be a fake air handler itself. Just get a bunch of foil-faced duct board and make up a fake air return duct running up the back of the wall. No one's going to look for anything inside that, or for any way to get into it.
 
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