Gun Maintenance

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crazysquirrel

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If you never have disassembled a gun (in particular a handgun), what should one expect when they do it for the first time?

Should a new gun be disassembled and cleaned/lubricated before firing for the first time?

More importantly what should they NOT try to do?

What should one look for once the gun disassembled?

Do you use 'gun grease', gun oil, all-in-one cleaner/lubricant, WD 40, or ???

About how often should a gun be cleaned?

Is there a difference between servicing one and merely cleaning one? If so then what?

How much would one expect to spend on cleaning/servicing items?

How long should cleaning/service take for the first time?

Can any parts be put back in backwards or wrong?

Assume a noob that never did one before.
 
If you never have disassembled a gun (in particular a handgun), what should one expect when they do it for the first time?
Success. :)

Should a new gun be disassembled and cleaned/lubricated before firing for the first time?
Generally speaking, yes.

More importantly what should they NOT try to do?
Rush, get ahead of yourself, try to figure it out on your own without the manual, or go "too deep."

What should one look for once the gun disassembled?
For a brand new gun these days you're really just looking at how it works to establish your own knowledge base. There's very little that you're likely to find wrong with a new gun -- that would bother you or that you'd have the knowledge to diagnose. If by chance you see something that's clearly broken, of course that's something for the manufacturer to deal with, but the chances of that are extremely small.

Do you use 'gun grease', gun oil, all-in-one cleaner/lubricant, WD 40, or ???
Use whatever the manufacturer recommends, where they recommend it. Usually that's going to be a "gun oil" of some sort. Like RemOil, or Breakfree CLP, or any of the other common brands.

About how often should a gun be cleaned?
Huge debate there. Some guys are obsessive and will clean the gun every time it is fired. Many others will clean every 500 or 1,000 rounds, or just when they feel like they need to. You should wipe down with an oiled rag any metal surfaces your hands touched, each time.

Is there a difference between servicing one and merely cleaning one? If so then what?
Not really. Most guns live their whole lives without needing any "servicing." Those shooters who actually do put more than a few thousand rounds through their guns will replace the primary springs every 5,000-10,000 rounds generally. You can order those online either from Brownells, Midway, or directly from Wolff Gunsprings. Otherwise, very little will ever need to be serviced unless something breaks.

How much would one expect to spend on cleaning/servicing items?
Not sure what you're asking there. Maybe $10-$15 to get the supplies and brushes to do the job. You need a can of oil, probably a can of powder solvent (like Hoppe's), and either a cleaning rod, patch puller, and brush to fit your bore size, or a universal cleaning kit which will have a variety of brushes, patch-pullers, patch jags, etc. in it. An old t-shirt makes a fine cleaning rag and bore patches.

An old towel, preferably light colored, makes for a fine table-top mat to keep gunk of the kitchen table and to keep small parts from rolling away.

How long should cleaning/service take for the first time?
The first time you do it? Kind of depends on the gun but not more than 1/2 an hour, I'd think.

Can any parts be put back in backwards or wrong?
Depends on the gun, but these days very few guns are not built somewhat "idiot proof." :)

Most guns (probably ALL guns) have a "field stripping" routine which the manual will explain. How to remove the slide, bolt, barrel, cylinder, trigger group, etc., etc. How to break down the gun into its major assemblies the manufacturer expects you to do yourself and keep clean.

And most (probably ALL) guns should not be stripped down any farther than that by anyone who's not VERY experienced in what they're doing. Going too far with your cleaning job can leave you with a pile of pins, springs, and nearly unidentifiable pieces you'll carry into the local gunsmith in a baggie. That's embarrassing.

When you're buying supplies you'll probably want an aerosol "gun scrubber" or something like that which you can use to blast out the more complicated assemblies to get the gunk out without taking them apart.
 
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Sam1911 pretty much covered it but I would add there are also some good you tube vids out there on most firearms that can help along with the manual.
 
i have heard of small parts like extractors get installed backwards causing feed issues maybe an idea would be to take photoes of it as you break it down using your cell fone camera . If you have the owners manual it ought to have a breakdown of what you should do to maintain the gun. Generaly unless you are buying an old military weapon you shouldnt have to worry about a thorugh initial cleaning the old Enfeilds,and Nagants that have been in storage for decades might have cosmoline in everywhere so those could need a good scrub down.Before shooting,check that the bore is clear of obstructions,and run a dry patch through,cycle the action,kind of a function check and go from there. Look up Ed's Red gun cleaner,its something you can mix up yourself that works as good as anything else Have fun be safe
 
crazysquirrel said:
If you never have disassembled a gun (in particular a handgun), what should one expect when they do it for the first time?
To have at least one spring shoot off into The Void.

Seriously, though, go watch some YouTube videos for the exact model of gun you're looking to disassemble. Watch videos from several different people, just to be sure you don't rely on That One Video from a hack who's going to get you into trouble.

Go slowly and take careful note of how things were put together, like which end of Spring Z went in first. (Frankly, I just bought a gun cleaning mat ($12 at a gun show) that shows an exploded diagram of all of the parts of a Glock. I can't clean my guns at the computer in my house, and that gives me a drawing to which I can refer if I need to.)

crazysquirrel said:
Should a new gun be disassembled and cleaned/lubricated before firing for the first time?
Disassembled (to a degree, field stripped) and inspected? Yes. Cleaned and lubricated? I'd check the owners manual if it's a new gun. If it's used, I'd clean, inspect and lubricate.

crazysquirrel said:
More importantly what should they NOT try to do?
See Sam1911's answer.

crazysquirrel said:
What should one look for once the gun disassembled?
Barrel obstructions, for one. Metal shavings, evidence of preservatives or lubes, cracks. In a new gun, I'd be surprised to find any one of those things, but that doesn't mean that it can't happen. In a used gun, I'd still be surprised, but it seems moderately more likely.

crazysquirrel said:
Do you use 'gun grease', gun oil, all-in-one cleaner/lubricant, WD 40, or ???
I've used several different products, usually being whatever came in the gun cleaning kit from Wal-Mart. Currently, I'm using Hoppes and GunScrubber for cleaning, and WeaponShield oil & grease for lubrication.

crazysquirrel said:
About how often should a gun be cleaned?
I'm one of the "whenever I feel like it" crowd. For a hunting shotgun, check it at the beginning of the season, and clean and lube as necessary, then clean and lube at the end of the season. For my EDC pistol, every ~250-300 rounds, maybe?

crazysquirrel said:
Is there a difference between servicing one and merely cleaning one? If so then what?
That goes beyond the precipice of my knowledge.

crazysquirrel said:
How much would one expect to spend on cleaning/servicing items?
Less than one spends on ammo. Or the gun. :D

crazysquirrel said:
How long should cleaning/service take for the first time?
That depends on: (1) the kind of gun; (2) your experience level; and (3) your own OCD level. I can field strip, clean, lube and reassemble my G19 in probably 10 minutes. However: (1) Glocks are really simple; (2) I've had this gun for a couple of years and am very comfortable with field stripping it; and (3) I'm not particularly OCD with my guns, even my EDC. As Sam1911 noted, the first time you do it, it might take a half an hour. I've had some take almost that long, but that usually meant that I'd had some trouble getting everything put back together.

crazysquirrel said:
Can any parts be put back in backwards or wrong?
Obviously, that would depend on the gun. I'm sure that there are some parts in some guns somewhere that can be put back in backwards or wrong.
 
Sam, thank you. Very thorough and sensible. One thing: "An old t-shirt makes a fine cleaning rag and bore patches," but make sure it (and the towels) are washed free of salts from sweat, etc.

I should point out that I have at least one gun, where if the "usual" assembly process is used without referring to the actual manual word for word, the gun may lock up and have to be sent back to the factory. This, according to the aforesaid actual manual (Kahr CW9).

I have another gun of similar design where this can happen, but the manual has no warning about it. I unfortunately found this out, but got lucky in shaking the heck out of it in all three dimensions to unlock it. Couldn't call it smart luck, must've been dumb luck.

After that, I used a slave pin (a broken-off Q-Tip) to hold the offending parts together properly while I put the rest of the gun back together (PF-9).

And, chiming in with your remarks about the cleaning controversy, I always add...

"More guns, cameras, coffeepots and small boys have been ruined by excessive cleaning than any other single cause." :D

Terry, 230RN
 
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I've been doing a field strip on my pistols about every 3 month's, which works out to about 600 rounds for me. In between that time, after every range firing, I do a bore swab with a bore snake and clean the chamber.

I've started using MPro-7 gun oil and MPro-7 gun cleaner, its non-toxic and does a good job on everything except copper fouling.

My AR-15 gets field stripped every 300 rounds and a bore snake after every firing. 1400 rounds so far and not a single failure to feed.

The bore-snakes save a ton of time, what used to take an hour, now takes 20 minutes.
 
Read the manual first. It should have instructions on how to field strip for cleaning. Go that far, and no further.

My wife just purchased a Sig P238, and even though it is similar to the 1911s that I have been field stripping for more than 40 years there were specific instructions that could have caused some problems with that pistol if not heeded.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use WD40 on your firearms.
 
Its going to seem more complicated than it is the first time you take one apart.

Its generally a good idea to lube it the first time, you can clean it then if you want. It is not like it takes that long.

Don't try to go to deep at first.

Look for damage in general. In particular look for cracks in the parts, flat spotting on the springs, excessive wear and rarely but it happens missing things.

What you want to clean and lube it with is up for discussion. You can by a $20 cleaning kit at Walmart and quite probably never have a bit of problem. Cheap cleaning kits from big stores have kept a lot of guns running for generations. If you are a serious user shooting hundreds of rounds in a single session maybe you need more than that from your lube. Starting out I would keep it inexpensive.

How often should it be cleaned, now there is an argument. There are people, who shoot a lot who never clean their guns. They just lube it. You are more likely to cause a malfunction by taking a gun apart and putting it back together than not cleaning it another hundred rounds. On the other hand if you don't clean it then you can't inspect it. I rarely go longer than a thousand rounds without cleaning a gun. I generally clean my carry every 2 or 3 hundred rounds. There are exceptions to this, if you get it wet or full of sand then clean it as soon as you can.

Servicing one is when you go deeper. For instance with a Glock every year or so you want to clean out the firing pin channel. Doing it more often than that could lead to excessive wear or losing an extractor spring.

Its harder than it used to be to put parts in backwards. The M60 machine gun was notorious for this. But is possible with springs to put them in the wrong order and cause problems and I would made sure I don't have any extra parts left over.
 
A tip for you would be when taking the firearm apart, at least the springs that are under pressure do it in a large clear bag. I use a gallon freezer bag when working on a handgun. That will keep springs/small parts from launching into orbit.That and a digital camera to take pictures of difficult steps is a great idea. Make a step by step disassembly guide slide show from your first time to look at on your computer as you do it each time if you have troubles. Most times it is no big deal though.:)
 
If you have a new Glock, refrain from cleaning the "gold coppery looking stuff" from the inside of the slide. It is there to help start the break in process.

Also, proper lubrication is just as important as proper cleaning. In this case, too much can be a bad thing. To make things even more complicated, some weapons like grease (M1a /M14 clones) in addition to regular oil. Going out in below zero temps, now you get to degrease and use a dry lube!
 
My AR-15 gets field stripped every 300 rounds and a bore snake after every firing. 1400 rounds so far and not a single failure to feed.
The bore-snakes save a ton of time, what used to take an hour, now takes 20 minutes.
Thats great and all.
But Bore-Snakes DO NOT clean the carbon out of bottle-neck rifle chambers.
When your gun eventually stops, get a real cleaning rod and chamber brush and use it again.

rc
 
When working with anything under spring tension, wear eye protection. Simple safety glasses or at least eyeglasses if you wear them...those springs that launch into the void never to be found again can find your eye too.
 
Yep on the spring-launching phenomenon. I usually use a dry cleaner's bag to do it in. Located one spring once, after using a magnet, a flashlight (two, actually, just to make sure), recited incantations to St. Anthony, which didn't help either --you know the drill.

Finally located it by noticing a tiny black grease mark on the wall, and there it was, right below the spoor it left.

Replaced the batteries in my flashlights.

Cleaned the wall.

Reassembled the gun.

Lit a candle for St. Anthony anyway on the chicken soup theory for curing a cold: can't hurt, might do some good.

Terry, 230RN
 
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One reason I decided on a revolver was that I was scared of screwing something up trying to clean a semi-auto. (Unlike a lot of folks here I'm not an engineer or a tinkerer.) A revolver is really straightforward to clean, you don't have to take anything apart. (I guess after several thousand rounds maybe you would but when I get to that point I'm gonna have a gunsmith do it.)
 
One reason I decided on a revolver was that I was scared of screwing something up trying to clean a semi-auto. (Unlike a lot of folks here I'm not an engineer or a tinkerer.) A revolver is really straightforward to clean, you don't have to take anything apart. (I guess after several thousand rounds maybe you would but when I get to that point I'm gonna have a gunsmith do it.)

For what it's worth, field stripping many of the current semi auto pistols is extremely easy. The current polymer frame striker fired pistols that dominate the market field strip into all of 4 parts...frame, slide, barrel, recoil spring assembly.

tumblr_inline_n3dypuWq1F1qhalii.jpg
 
Know your limits. Being mechanically dim witted, I am quite reluctant to disassemble guns. But, I do only after watching a few YouTube videos and some manufacturer videos and going over the manual. My gunsmith told me he has had numerous occasions where a guy brings in his gun in pieces in a shoe box and asks him to reassemble it. Fortunately that has not happened to me....yet. Never believe anyone who says, "Anyone can do it." But, if you go forth carefully, you will learn from mistakes and experience.
 
Know your limits. Being mechanically dim witted, I am quite reluctant to disassemble guns. But, I do only after watching a few YouTube videos and some manufacturer videos and going over the manual. My gunsmith told me he has had numerous occasions where a guy brings in his gun in pieces in a shoe box and asks him to reassemble it. Fortunately that has not happened to me....yet. Never believe anyone who says, "Anyone can do it." But, if you go forth carefully, you will learn from mistakes and experience.

There are things anyone can do.

That is, there are things that anyone who can be trusted to handle a firearm, let alone a loaded firearm, can do.

If a person can't field strip an HK VP9 and put it back together, I seriously would not want to be within a mile of that person when the gun is loaded and would fear for the safety of themselves and those around them (if they could figure out how to load it in the first place, otherwise it wouldn't matter lol)
 
Re the Kahr problem I mentioned above, as well as some similar guns:

http://www.kahr.com/PDF/kahrmanual.pdf

See the text surrounding Photo 10, page 22.

Make sure the slide stop does not miss the kidney shaped cutout as this will result in the gun being returned to the factory for service.
[Photo 10 inserted here, and it continues...]
CAUTION: Keep the slide stop in the 3:00 o'clock position to allow the slide stop spring to catch the top of the landing on the slide stop.

This is all printed in red, just as above. Bolding mine. Looking at it, my guess is they have to jig up the gun, drill out the slide stop, remove it, replace it, and possibly replace the barrel. Don't know how much that costs.

So don't just go ahead and disassemble and reassemble as you might have done so many times in the past with so many guns.

What's that acronym? Oh, yeah, RTFM.

My own Kahr instructions vary slightly from the above in the tone of the instructions, but they still say if you foul up, you'll have to send the gun back for repairs.

Incidentally, I found you can reassemble the Nosin-Nagant bolt incorrectly if you don't follow some precise instructions.

Also, with the Ruger Standard .22 (now called the Mark I, I think), if you reassemble it without making sure the hammer strut fits correctly into the guide hole in the mag spring plunger assembly, the gun will lock up and the slide (or "bolt") cannot be operated. In this case, the solution is easily accomplished by the ordinary person without having to send it back. I don't know if this is true of the Mark II and III models of the .22 auto pistol.

Terry, 230RN
 
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As you may have gathered, the answers to your questions can vary rather widely depending on the specific gun you're talking about. Do you have a particular model you own or are thinking about getting? If we knew that we might be able to give you more helpful info.
 
Gun Maintenance

Every new gun I have ever gotten included an owner maintenance manual. Since guns can vary considerably this is a good thing. :)

Additionally due to liability issues manufacturers make their owner maintenance manuals available online. So for example a good friend sells me this gun:

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I can look my new gun up and go here for a proper care and feeding manual. That linked manual will tell me anything and everything I need to know about my specific gun, including field striping and cleaning. Remember, the manual addresses the specific gun.

I always suggest reading the manual and becoming familiar with a new gun before ever attempting to load it and fire it. However, to each their own.

Ron
 
When ever I buy a gun I always give it a pretty thorough cleaning before firing it to make sure all the factory crud is out of it.

I do not totally disassemble my guns, as I feel it is unnecessary. On a typical range visit I put 100-200 rounds through 2 or 3 different guns. I clean my guns after every single range session regardless of the number of rounds being fired. I'm obsessive like that, but I actually find cleaning and oiling guns rather therapeutic. If I shot high round counts or competed, that might be different as the more you shoot the more fouling will undoubtedly build up.

I do go a bit further with my carry gun, just for piece of mind. But it's a striker fired gun, and disassembling striker mechanisms on most pistols is pretty easy.
 
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