Gun Maintenance

[Zaydok Allen]

Gun Maintenance

I always suggest reading the manual and becoming familiar with a new gun before ever attempting to load it and fire it. However, to each their own.

Ron

Always good advice, and something everyone should do. I don't care what your experience level is. Look through the manual before shooting the gun.

 

[il.bill]

Lots of very good advice here. You will unlikely run into any real trouble when doing a 'field strip and cleaning'. Things can really get involved when you go farther that that. The internet makes it fairly easy to find instructions - just Google "(your firearm model) dis-assembly" and all kinds of 'help' will come up. Many you-tube videos are great assistance, especially for a first timer; as has been noted, check out several. If you are lucky, someone has posted a step by step pictorial instruction guide for your model on a blog or forum somewhere. For a couple of outstanding examples, these two have rescued me with a CZ82 (now that pistol is one complicated detail strip) more than once: http://leolani.net/relics/cz82.html -and- http://sailorcurt.com/2008/04/cz-82-gunsmithing-part-1.html/.

I have always liked the tip about working inside a large clear plastic bag to control errant springs and pins, although I never remember it until something goes flying away, and working over a light colored old bath towel really helps keep the small pieces from scooting off the table.

My best tip is to always work in a clean area. Taking a firearm apart on an old work bench in a dirty garage is fine, until you find yourself on your hands and knees looking for a small pin or spring laying amidst the dirt and dust and detritus underneath the bench on a floor that has not been swept in years.

If something small does fall or fly away on a more detailed dis-assembly, approach your search with patience, diligence, and logic. To date, I have always found what I 'lost', but at times it took me hours, mostly because I was doing the work in an old, somewhat unkempt, garage.

And, for what it is worth, good St. Anthony has never failed me yet.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

I clean after every range trip. I don't know if it's completely necessary because sometimes I put maybe 40 or 60 shots through my bolt guns. It was the way I was taught. Cleaning is part of shooting. There's a lot of great tips you can pick up on threads like these but I still stick to the old method I learned from Uncle Raymond back when I was 10 or so.
I have experimented with grease, however, and found all my guns, pistols and rifles alike, respond well to a light coating on moving parts.
New to me milsurps get a complete disassembly and degrease, thorough cleaning and reassembly at first. YouTube pretty much has videos on any old milsurps to guide you through. Caveat Emptor, though, watch a couple first because someone might leave out a critical step. I once spent about 3 hours freeing up a firing pin from a Mauser bolt because I missed a critical step. CCWs always get field stripped and cleaned after every range session or monthly if I don't get to shoot for that period, God forbid. It's a good chance to examine, check for wear, clean out any lint or dirt which finds its way in there from day to day carry.

 

[Redlg155]

The old shirt idea for cleaning rags/paches works great..I even use my old fruit of the looms. A nifty idea if your wife/gf will let you. Old G strings might make a great bore snake. Size of course...17 caliber to 12 Guage depends on the previous owner..

 

[crazysquirrel]

If my wife were as big as a 12 gauge I might not have married her.....

A lot of women's undies are nylon/spandex/lycra. You sure those will work ok?

And the used froot of the looms - umm just how would one tell if they were removing dirt from the barrel or not?

 

[Redlg155]

Part of my comment was made in jest, in a field expedient method...why not. No worse than running a knotted shoelace through an AK.

As for underwear...full cotton boxers are excellent as are old white sheets. You could go to goodwill or catch a super sale on sheets and have a supply to last at least a year. I am currently using a set of heavy cotton curtains that we no longer use for patches and rags.

 

[CountGlockula]

For a new gun, read the manual. Learn to disassemble and clean. Shoot it and clean when you get home. Take your time cleaning by playing Saving Private Ryan in the background.

Done.

 

[crazysquirrel]

I took it as a joke lol.

Seems a sheet might be too thin?

I was thinking something like a fluffy cotton cloth like you use to take wax off a car (yellow microfiber).

I have several that once used i cannot use them again. I could wash them but they are still a little stiff.

Could a spray cleaner like Brakleen be used to clean then reoil?

 

[Sam1911]

Yes, a lot of folks use something like Brakleen to aggressively clean gun parts. You might not want to do that as they can be VERY nasty to your body and also pretty danged hard on other parts of the gun that aren't metal.

I've had spray carb cleaner completely strip long-cured epoxy gun coat finish off a rifle before. Not the intended effect. At all.

Now that's more aggressive than Brakeleen, even, but wood and wood finishes, plastics, and some metal coatings are not happy when exposed to that stuff.

They do, however, strip EVERYTHING off of metal. They'll take the grime and grit away, and also all of the oil. You need to religiously re-oil anything those solvents have touched or you can get rust setting in very fast.

 

[crazysquirrel]

What about plastic-safe MAF sensor cleaner? Or starting fluid?

What abut the combo cleaner-lube you get from the gun shop?

 

[Warp]

What about plastic-safe MAF sensor cleaner? Or starting fluid?

What abut the combo cleaner-lube you get from the gun shop?

What about them for what??

If you want to really clean everything off metal completely, chlorine free break cleaner is a standard go-to. No CLP from the gun store is going to clean that well. It is kind of the nuclear option though. I have a can for that purpose but haven't resorted to using it yet.

 

[crazysquirrel]

ok thanks.

 

[FROGO207]

For me the taking apart of the firearm when I first get it is part of the fun. I get to see how the machine interacts to fire the round. I know where to clean and lube after that time as well. Then when it malfunctions, and they all will eventually, I know where to look most times. Helps that I am mechanically inclined as well. I actually boil my BP revolvers (with grips removed) in hot water twice, then dip them in Marvel Mystery Oil after they cool and let them drip dry of oil. No rust problems to date either.

 

[2zulu1]

I don't use any ammonia based cleaners because it can damage some gun finishes.

Kroil is also a great bore cleaner that doesn't have ammonia ventilation issues.

 

[MechAg94]

What about plastic-safe MAF sensor cleaner? Or starting fluid?

What abut the combo cleaner-lube you get from the gun shop?

When it comes down to it, you don't really need that much cleaner and lubricant to clean and lube most guns. There is no reason to use industrial grade solvents just to save 50 cents being cheap. Powder solvents like Hoppes #9 are meant for guns and have lube/preservative additives. Stronger cleaners for gun stuff will generally have instructions. If you go to a larger gun store, they might have dozens of different lubes and cleaners.

I would avoid using any solvent on non-metal parts just to be on the safe side.

 

[mstreddy]

I've got a Mk II and I don't even want to try to disassemble it.

I have no problems with Ruger Mk II disassembly, now - REASSEMBLY is another ball of wax!
In browsing the manuals for two of them that I owned, I noticed that the newer manual added one step that was not in the older one and that step made a huge difference in putting the gun back together without a ton of cursing.
There is a website that I found some years ago that had some nice detailed instructions with pictures and that helped too. It also covers the Mk II 22/45 which is what I have.

 

[Sam1911]

Yup. The Mk series has this one ridiculously simple step that if you don't "get" and don't do each time you reassemble it, will plague you terribly.

Once you see it and "get" it, it becomes wonderfully simple.


(Hint: Watch that hammer strut!)

 

[ColoradoShooter77]

Last night I disassembled the bolt on my AR-15 to clean and lube, after 500 rounds fired. It was filthy, lol. The rifle was still running great though.

I scrubbed it with CLP, got all the carbon and gunk off, then re-lubed it with CLP. Its good to go now.

Its amazing how filthy these rifles get, but that's what happens when you blow all the gas back into the action.

 

[Warp]

Last night I disassembled the bolt on my AR-15 to clean and lube, after 500 rounds fired. It was filthy, lol. The rifle was still running great though.

I scrubbed it with CLP, got all the carbon and gunk off, then re-lubed it with CLP. Its good to go now.

Its amazing how filthy these rifles get, but that's what happens when you blow all the gas back into the action.

It doesn't really blow everything back into the action.

Have it/keep it lubed and it will run a long time without cleaning.

 

[ColoradoShooter77]

Yeah I know, its just a small portion of the gas that goes back into the action. 500 rounds seems like a reasonable interval, as it was pretty dirty.

 

[boatdoc173]

considering that before I started cleaning guns, I would take things apart and never get them back together right(like the vacuum cleaner with parts left over--lol)

I was apprehensive to say the least when I started lubing my guns before firing. the 1911 was a special challenge.. the spring took off 1 st try. found it 2 hours later( learned to use a small room to clean afte r that-ha haha)

now it is easy. back then the manual and youtube videos really helped out.

take your time. the idea of pics as you field strip is a good one or again use the youtube videos.

if all else fails post here or on gun forums as the folks are really helpful(like when I needed help with a 2 piece guide rod( recoil rod).

the maker of the guns customer service site is also a good idea --they frequently have videos about each gun. contacting them is also a help. I have used Wilson combats site--even sent in pics of the part I am having issues with--I get great help that way

relax. we have all been there. you will be fine

happy shooting

 

[stonecutter2]

Some have already responded with great detail, so here's a few that jumped out at me where I felt I wanted to share an opinion/experience.

If you never have disassembled a gun (in particular a handgun), what should one expect when they do it for the first time?

It can be nerve wracking. Go slowly, you might get frustrated or confused or freaked out that you did something wrong or "broke" your gun. You almost guaranteed did not, especially if you took your time.

More importantly what should they NOT try to do?

Do not force anything excessively as you go. If something seems wrong, consult the manual or a Youtube video or Google results, take a break, and try again.

What should one look for once the gun disassembled?

When new, take a mental snapshot of what parts and things look like. When used, look for unusual wear or any signs of fatigue or damage to components. If you find wear, replace the part if it looks excessive. Sometimes wear is GOOD for parts, as it "breaks in" the metal and makes the gun function smoother.

Do you use 'gun grease', gun oil, all-in-one cleaner/lubricant, WD 40, or ???

I use Outers Gun Oil or Ballistol for oiling, Tetra or "Lubriplate 130-A" grease for greasing.

Can any parts be put back in backwards or wrong?

Sometimes springs can go back in either direction, sometimes direction matters. Consult the manual.

Assume a noob that never did one before.

Don't be too worried, it's a pretty easy process once you've done it once or twice. In no time you'll do it like second nature.