Gun Proper Care

[Anchorite]

Far more barrels are destroyed by improper cleaning than anything else.

Always use a bore guide and coated rod. NEVER a steel or aluminum rod as it can damage the crown when pulled back. Use that coated rod with properly sized jags for patches. I am partial to Dewey.

I personally only brush every few cleanings, (and use a copper or bronze brush, NEVER steel) all other times I use patches.

I like Shooters Choice, but there are other quality solvents. Never put a rifle up with a wet bore. Never shoot so much your barrel is too hot to even touch.

Following this regimen will ensure your barrel will last a reasonable length of time for your enjoyment.

 

[bdickens]

Really? How is the relatively soft aluminum rod going to damage the much harder steel that the barrel is made of?

I'm also willing to bet that steel cleaning rods are made from much softer steel than the barrel.

 

[film495]

Really? How is the relatively soft aluminum rod going to damage the much harder steel that the barrel is made of?

I'm also willing to bet that steel cleaning rods are made from much softer steel than the barrel.

I like a brass rod, so when I do it wrong I can see the brass shavings just shred off on the crown. For pistols I use an aluminum rod, not sure I've ever even noticed one for sale that wasn't a basic aluminum rod, pretty sure that is standard rod type for pisols.

I don't know if this is true or not, but I think it is something I heard that stuck with my, and it isn't bad to clean your equipment, but the brass rods, or maybe it was aluminum, the solvent will oxidize the metal of the rod a bit, that oxidized material can be abrasive over time if there is enough of it. So, you just clean the rod shiny again with a couple patches when you're done. I run an oily patch over my rod, just cause I have some from doing the firearm, but I'm sure it does absolutely nothing for a brass rod.

 

[tws3b2]

Proper gun care is in the eyes of the beholder.
The way I see it is, My guns seem to need the basic.
The basic brand name oil.
The basic brand name cleaner.
The basic brand name rod.
The basic brand name brush.
The basic brand name patch.
All the basics seem to work just fine with my firearms.
But. Just but, if you think yours needs more. I mean, if you think your firearm needs extra attention. Well. Do what you gotta do to save it.

 

[jag1954]

For me, just a bore snake through the barrel and a bit of oiling afterwards. Never had any issues.

 

[Ignition Override]

Make sure that your desired cleaning rod accepts Both the slotted jag And the brush you plan to use. Male vs Female.

And note that Ballistol is also in the CLP category.

Breakfree is only a different brand- and certainly Is Not the only CLP , but people confuse the brand with the category—

—Maybe that’s what Sgt. Hulka taught them before the Sgt’s platform was hit by the mortar shell…..

 

[JerkyFreak]

Pure aluminium is quite soft and bends easily. To increase the toughness, most aluminium is alloyed with silicon. Ask any machinist, few things blunt lathe and mill tools as fast as aluminium. That could damage your crown if you don't take care.

Aluminium oxidises rather quickly form a thin layer of oxide that is an oxygen barrier. This is why aluminium can be used outdoors without coating. Unfortunately the oxide is also an abrasive. Theoretically it can wear down the leade if used without a bore guide or the rod bends under pressure. Whether the damage will be noticible when following a reasonable cleaning regime is doubtful.

And, yes, I have seen photos of a leade damaged at the 6 o'clock position by using an uncoated rod with no bore guide.

Personally I use a coated steel or brass rod with a fitted bore guide to avoid things like that.

 

[doubleh]

Always make popcorn before posting this topic.But then you need to discuss the best brand and cooking technique!

I agree about the popcorn. Everyone and their dog has an opinion and theirs is always right. Like a lot of other topics that appear regularly on gun forums it's like beating a dead horse. Same ol', same ol'.

I did read through this though.

 

[caribou]

My first high power rifle for serious subsistence Hunting, for about 6 years, was a Remington 700 ADL .243Winchester, with 100 grain Rem Corelok's. I did the whole shebang and learned to keep it simple in the field.
I lost that rifle and then I went all German. 3 crates of 1980's Yougo ammo a Kar98k 8mm Mauser I carried for Bears, Moose, and mostly Caribou for about a year.
Rod the chamber with a brush, pull through the bore, tooth brush the action and what nots.

With Mosin's its the same, and my M1A.

Chambers and bores, the rest is secondary.

 

[hutch51]

Aluminum rifle and pistol rods.
Brass / bronze / nylon bore brushes.
Pistols get it from the breech end. Rifles usually from the muzzle end.
Figure the tools are gentle enough up against steel.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Solid brass rods here. I polish them every now and then with metal polish to remove anything that may be embedded in the brass.

 

[AJC1]

I run marlin lever guns, I pull the screw on the lever pull the bolt in like 30 seconds and clean just like my bolt rifles. If you run a terrible design like a model 94 that takes hours and special tools to take apart I'd probably worry about all that other silly stuff.

 

[herrwalther]

I'll buy rods in any material if the cost/length is what I need. Example: I bought a long rifle. And I mean a real long rifle, not a typical 18" barrel on most shelf rifles these days. So I needed a longer cleaning rod. Now I prefer one piece aluminum or brass rods whenever possible. But for this rifle the only one in the length I needed was steel and in sections. The price was right so I grinned and bought it. Fingers crossed I just hope it uses a softer steel than the barrel as I have no way of testing hardness to be sure. The rifle is over 100 years old but won't be a safe queen compared to its previous lives.

 

[AJC1]

I don't understand the fear of cleaning rod material, it's not a single point tool in a lathe. I like stainless rods as good as any other, and brass the least as they react to copper agents. I also don't buy nylon cleaning brushes when the old fashion brass works just fine... the Tipton coated cleaning jags are great for all cleaning agents. I like bore guides, because they make the job easier and keep junk out of my action. We way over complicate a simple process.