Cleaning from the Breech, and other cleaning stuff

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Nightcrawler

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Cleaning a barrel from the breech end is important, I've learned. I learned this back on TFL.

The one thing I don't quite understand, though. Exactly why? Something about protecting the crown?

Also, what does one do with a fixed cleaning rod? My CZ-97 came with a plastic cleaning rod and a wire bore brush. The brush has the bristles on one end and a metal loop on the other. If you shove it in the breech, you have to pull it out that way too. consequently, I don't use this brush too much.

The pistol's manual says only to push the brush so the bristles are all the way clear of the muzzle, then pull them back through. (It says to not try to change the direction of the brush while in the barrel, since it could get stuck).

I have a boresnake for my FAL, and I've been meaning to get one in .45. It'll make cleaning my revovlers much easier, too.

I have a .50 caliber ammo can that contains my cleaning kit. In it I have the boresnake, a can of CLP, a rag, a knife, dental picks, a multi-segment barrel rod, some well-used bore swabs, some well used bore brushes, and some patches.

Besides getting some new bore swabs and some more brushes, is there anything my cleaning kit really should have? I have what's left of a bottle of bore solvent, too, and other assorted remains of one of those Wal-Mart cleaning kits.
 
The cleaning from breech is supposed to take care of a couple of things.

_Protect the crown.
_All the gunk is not pushed into action. (goes away from).
_Which keeps gunk and solvents from gumming the action , drying out action, or a combo.
_I think the newest argument is to confuse people so they buy more stuff and argue about it ( just my theory;) )

Some say by going back and forth one is causing damage in the process of the back and forth with dirt---go one direction, remove patch/brush, re-attach, one direction -repeat. I think Otis advocates this thinking.

I've used an Otis since they came out, but I started the use to have multi caliber cleaning choices, handy to take afield, and easier to use on a lever action, revolver, etc, and not worry about crown. I used a 'thong" before this.

I use non-coated steel rod also. Some argure that the oxidation from Al will attract and hold grit, thereby one is "lapping" away rifling and crown. Maybe Al is not as strong.

I do know ( from a former job) I used to make a "lap" on purpose by making coated rods and impregnating with compounds.

MY reason for un-coated rods, they can be wiped off b/t passes.

I'd add pipe cleaners, long wooden Q-tips ( radio shack, hobby/crafts store) muzzle guard ( drinking straw works in a pinch) and thought toothbrushes are good , the old double ended military brush is handy.

HTH
 
I haven't thrown away a tooth brush in a long time. Sometimes you need a brass-bristled brush, but most of the time, a well broken in tooth brush works wonders on all the nooks and crannies, and when it gets dirty, you just throw it away.

I always clean from the breach to protect the crown and make sure the forcing cone in squeaky clean. Of all the guns I've seen with rusted and/or pitted barrels, the vast majority were damaged at or shortly in front of the forcing cone.
 
If you can find the "baby" or "child" toothbrush they are handy.

I think its good to go from breech, wipe b/t passes, go slow and be observant. Common sense and just paying attention ( without distractions) IMO more important than name brands and such.

( hint: the Sonic straws are a bigger dia...excuse for a milkshake--whether its used as a bore guide, muzzle protector...up to you)
 
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