Proper Cleaning
- Thread starter Picknlittle
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Geronimo45
Member
Just toss it in a vat of boiling cosmoline and it'll be fine.
heypete
Member
As others have said, everyone has their different method of cleaning. M1 Garands require grease, most guns don't. Some like being shot dirty, others need to be immaculately clean to work.
Here's my basic cleaning routine:
1. Place a few drops (no more than 5-8) of Break-Free CLP on the pre-brush area of the properly sized boresnake. Run boresnake through barrel from breech to muzzle twice.
2. Field strip the gun, wipe all parts with a patch soaked in CLP to remove carbon and other residue. Use nylon or bronze "toothbrush" as necessary. Wipe clean. Wipe down again with CLP soaked patch, then wipe with a dry patch until only a very thin film remains to protect against corrosion.
3. Detail-clean various high-wear or important parts with a q-tip and CLP (such as the track for the cam pin and bolt in an AR bolt carrier).
4. Put a small amount of CLP on "shiny" metal and other parts that wear (like pistol slide grooves). No more than a drop for the whole pistol groove, less on smaller parts.
5. Reassemble gun and function check.
I've not had any problems with any of the guns I shoot with this basic routine. When I don't have a boresnake in the caliber I'm using (not really an issue anymore), I will use a steel rod with a bronze brush and patch holder. For heavy fouling, I'll run the bronze brush down-and-back through the barrel for every 10 rounds fired that day, then alternate wet/dry patches until clean. Finish with a patch wetted with CLP, then a dry one to remove excess oil.
I'll detail-strip guns yearly or so, and clean out all the internal bits (trigger assemblies, interior of bolt/slides, firing pins and channels, etc.).
Works well for me, takes no more than 15-20 minutes per gun, and is very easy.
Here's my basic cleaning routine:
1. Place a few drops (no more than 5-8) of Break-Free CLP on the pre-brush area of the properly sized boresnake. Run boresnake through barrel from breech to muzzle twice.
2. Field strip the gun, wipe all parts with a patch soaked in CLP to remove carbon and other residue. Use nylon or bronze "toothbrush" as necessary. Wipe clean. Wipe down again with CLP soaked patch, then wipe with a dry patch until only a very thin film remains to protect against corrosion.
3. Detail-clean various high-wear or important parts with a q-tip and CLP (such as the track for the cam pin and bolt in an AR bolt carrier).
4. Put a small amount of CLP on "shiny" metal and other parts that wear (like pistol slide grooves). No more than a drop for the whole pistol groove, less on smaller parts.
5. Reassemble gun and function check.
I've not had any problems with any of the guns I shoot with this basic routine. When I don't have a boresnake in the caliber I'm using (not really an issue anymore), I will use a steel rod with a bronze brush and patch holder. For heavy fouling, I'll run the bronze brush down-and-back through the barrel for every 10 rounds fired that day, then alternate wet/dry patches until clean. Finish with a patch wetted with CLP, then a dry one to remove excess oil.
I'll detail-strip guns yearly or so, and clean out all the internal bits (trigger assemblies, interior of bolt/slides, firing pins and channels, etc.).
Works well for me, takes no more than 15-20 minutes per gun, and is very easy.
Red Dragon
Member
I tend to be pretty anal when it comes to cleaning my guns but the level all depends on how many rounds I've put down range for the day.
gun cleaning
The main purpose of cleaning a gun is to fondle it
I used to oil down the outside and run a bristle brush dipped in Hoppe's #9 thru the bore and that was that. Linseed oil rubbed on the stock was also good. To prep for shooting, I would repeat the Hoppe's thing then wipe the bore dry with several patches. It worked for me - the barrel is now 25 years old and still mint. (That was in a hot, humid climate and I had a bin of silica gel in the safe).
On the other hand, I never cleaned my 44 mag single action at all - just rubbed oil on the outside. I was using lubed cast bullets.
Pete
The main purpose of cleaning a gun is to fondle it
I used to oil down the outside and run a bristle brush dipped in Hoppe's #9 thru the bore and that was that. Linseed oil rubbed on the stock was also good. To prep for shooting, I would repeat the Hoppe's thing then wipe the bore dry with several patches. It worked for me - the barrel is now 25 years old and still mint. (That was in a hot, humid climate and I had a bin of silica gel in the safe).
On the other hand, I never cleaned my 44 mag single action at all - just rubbed oil on the outside. I was using lubed cast bullets.
Pete
mpmarty
Member
Hoppes #9 on a bronze brush wrapped in the proper size patch to keep it moist.
Ten full strokes all the way out the muzzle and back to breech. Remove patch and spray brush with brake cleaner, shake off and cover brush with clean patch and saturate with Hoppes #9 and push through bore a couple times. Let it sit for fifteen minutes while you disassemble bolt assy and clean with brake cleaner.
lube with miltech 1 grease if it slides, oil if it rotates, put bolt back together. Fit a tight fitting patch on a clean jag and push through bore. If it is clean coat with light application of miltech 1 oil wipe down exterior with same oil lightly and you're done. If patch comes out blue or black you have more cleaning in your future. If Hoppes #9 won't cut it easily I use Sweets 7.62 or Butches bore shine and follow their directions.
Ten full strokes all the way out the muzzle and back to breech. Remove patch and spray brush with brake cleaner, shake off and cover brush with clean patch and saturate with Hoppes #9 and push through bore a couple times. Let it sit for fifteen minutes while you disassemble bolt assy and clean with brake cleaner.
lube with miltech 1 grease if it slides, oil if it rotates, put bolt back together. Fit a tight fitting patch on a clean jag and push through bore. If it is clean coat with light application of miltech 1 oil wipe down exterior with same oil lightly and you're done. If patch comes out blue or black you have more cleaning in your future. If Hoppes #9 won't cut it easily I use Sweets 7.62 or Butches bore shine and follow their directions.
30 cal slob
Member
not sure if this was mentioned, but i do more than just wipe down the bolt.
1) use a q-tip dampened with solvent to clean the bolt face.
2) use a pipe cleaner to clean around the extractor
3) remove the firing pin (careful, it's likely under spring tension). clean firing pin, and use pipe cleaner to clean inside the bolt.
1) use a q-tip dampened with solvent to clean the bolt face.
2) use a pipe cleaner to clean around the extractor
3) remove the firing pin (careful, it's likely under spring tension). clean firing pin, and use pipe cleaner to clean inside the bolt.
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