af1acura
Member
I asked my buddy what he thought about securing my firearms and he said, "carry them all on you, if people ask tell them your the matrix."
Gun safe/security on a budget?
- Thread starter af1acura
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never_retreat
Member
I have to second the idea for a jobsite type storage box. I use one in the truck for tools and one in the house for some guns. I worked in construction for a while and have bought and lost a lot of boxes. By far the knack boxes are the strongest. As long as the anchored down in our case usually chained to the building steel they will take a hell of a beating. Unless you come prepared with a torch or cut of saw your not getting in with a crow bar. Example below. Stay away from the home depot cheapo's.
http://www.knaackbox.com/main_inventory/Knaack_Boxes/Jobmaster_Chests/1/knaack_boxes.htm
http://www.knaackbox.com/main_inventory/Knaack_Boxes/Jobmaster_Chests/1/knaack_boxes.htm
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Locks keep honest people out, that's about it. You live in an apartment complex and there's no telling how many people have keys. I live in an apartment complex right now, and my friend in the building next to me somehow locked themselves out. They're friends of the people under them, so he went down there to hang out until his roommate got home. After talking to his neighbor downstairs the neighbor offered his "services". They went back up to the locked deadbolt on the door, and the neighbor picked it within a few minutes.
Nothing is full proof, but layers will slow intruders. I suggest getting a sentry safe and bolting it to the wall or floor, depending on what you can do. If it's your own apartment, I would put it in the bottom kitchen cabinet bolted down. That will solve the handgun problem, but since you have rifles maybe a full size safe of some sort would be best. Maybe use something like this for the handguns http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=3922136
-Ryan
Nothing is full proof, but layers will slow intruders. I suggest getting a sentry safe and bolting it to the wall or floor, depending on what you can do. If it's your own apartment, I would put it in the bottom kitchen cabinet bolted down. That will solve the handgun problem, but since you have rifles maybe a full size safe of some sort would be best. Maybe use something like this for the handguns http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=3922136
-Ryan
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Small safes are to be avoided. There was an old guy who kept a lot of jewelry and gold in one of those small safes. The crooks took the safe and opened it at their leisure. The safe was recovered opened, brokened and empty. It sat in the parking lot of the police station as the owner didn't bother to recover that POS he put so much faith in. Big safes for guns, hide it and layered protection (laminated glass for windows, better locks, kick resistent doors, alarm, dog, neighbors).
Eleven Mike
Member
Gary, thanks for totally refusing to read the OP or answer the actual question. 
03Shadowbob
Member
I bought a Stack-on 8 gun safe mainly to keep my young kids away from them and as a deterrent to any body brave enough to come into my house filled with dogs. I figure if they get past the dogs then they are getting the guns no matter what. I put it in the corner of my closet out of sight of any visitors I may have. They have holes on the bottom and the back of the safe to drill into the floor or the walls.
Mine was $99 from BassPro. It came in a box and you assemble it yourself so noone would really no what it was if just looking at you carry it in.
Now when I move in the next 2 or 3 months I am buying a bigboy safe and putting it in the basement. I'll still have the dogs but I need a bigger safe now anyways.
Mine was $99 from BassPro. It came in a box and you assemble it yourself so noone would really no what it was if just looking at you carry it in.
Now when I move in the next 2 or 3 months I am buying a bigboy safe and putting it in the basement. I'll still have the dogs but I need a bigger safe now anyways.
rangermonroe
Member
I have this one.
http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=189761
I am very pleased with it. It has a pretty good fire rating, unless you live in the country where the FD cant get there except to save the chimney.
It looks pretty good too.
This is the one that Gary was saying that sells at wally world for $350. My sams has them in stock year round and they are selling for $589 as of yeaterday.
Yes, they are small...will only hold 30 or so rifles, but you have to stack them really tightly. But they hold other stuff too, like pistols and knives.
Caution, just like getting C&R license, a safe will cause your collection to bloom...I think those guns do it in the safe
http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=189761
I am very pleased with it. It has a pretty good fire rating, unless you live in the country where the FD cant get there except to save the chimney.
It looks pretty good too.
This is the one that Gary was saying that sells at wally world for $350. My sams has them in stock year round and they are selling for $589 as of yeaterday.
Yes, they are small...will only hold 30 or so rifles, but you have to stack them really tightly. But they hold other stuff too, like pistols and knives.
Caution, just like getting C&R license, a safe will cause your collection to bloom...I think those guns do it in the safe
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
A few months ago, I bought a brand new Liberty Colonial Series
residential security container or (RSC) to house my collection.
True, it won't keep a professional burgular out; but it will keep
"the smash and grab" thugs, dope heads, crack and meth types
out; as well as small children within your household. With all the
other added security equipment I have installed, I at least feel
"safe" while away from the house for a few minutes~!
residential security container or (RSC) to house my collection.
True, it won't keep a professional burgular out; but it will keep
"the smash and grab" thugs, dope heads, crack and meth types
out; as well as small children within your household. With all the
other added security equipment I have installed, I at least feel
"safe" while away from the house for a few minutes~!
Stretchman
member
I just purchased a Stack-on, electronic strong box ( wouldn't call it a safe ) with a key back up. It is at least as good as one of those nightstand jobbies, and it holds my guns, plus ammo, and some keys and other stuff I really don't want to leave lying around.
For like, 64 bux I think it is worth the additional peace of mind. You're right about one thing. If you can't leave your house, not even for 10 mins, without worrying about it, something is drastically wrong. Paranoia? I don't think so.
Today, my next door neighbor had some people over. When I pulled up to my house, somebody pulled in right behind me ( Perpendicular ), blocking my driveway. I was in condition orange, and ready, but I was still pissed. They kept looking at me like I did something wrong. I kept looking at them really suspiciously, and kept an eye out. Didn't make an issue of the car, but as soon as a spot opened up somewhere else, the kid went out and moved it.
Later on the cops were there for something, blue lights going. I have no idea what, but they didn't take anyone. Try to mind my own business, but this is pushing it. Got the safe today just in case. Hate having the cable lock and or the trigger locks on the guns and have them lying out. This is faster, and better protection, and not as much of a temptation should someone make it through both doors and manage not to trip the alarm.
Better than nothing I suppose. Tomorrow, I tap con it into the concrete wall. Might take someone a while to get it free, if I install it with some good washers.
I love this forum. I have learned so much from here, and the netiquette is superb in comparison to most sites I have visited, especially when it comes to firearms.
Stretch
Quit cigs 1M 4D 20m ago. So far saved $210.08, 1,400 cigs not smoked and counting ...
For like, 64 bux I think it is worth the additional peace of mind. You're right about one thing. If you can't leave your house, not even for 10 mins, without worrying about it, something is drastically wrong. Paranoia? I don't think so.
Today, my next door neighbor had some people over. When I pulled up to my house, somebody pulled in right behind me ( Perpendicular ), blocking my driveway. I was in condition orange, and ready, but I was still pissed. They kept looking at me like I did something wrong. I kept looking at them really suspiciously, and kept an eye out. Didn't make an issue of the car, but as soon as a spot opened up somewhere else, the kid went out and moved it.
Later on the cops were there for something, blue lights going. I have no idea what, but they didn't take anyone. Try to mind my own business, but this is pushing it. Got the safe today just in case. Hate having the cable lock and or the trigger locks on the guns and have them lying out. This is faster, and better protection, and not as much of a temptation should someone make it through both doors and manage not to trip the alarm.
Better than nothing I suppose. Tomorrow, I tap con it into the concrete wall. Might take someone a while to get it free, if I install it with some good washers.
I love this forum. I have learned so much from here, and the netiquette is superb in comparison to most sites I have visited, especially when it comes to firearms.
Stretch
Quit cigs 1M 4D 20m ago. So far saved $210.08, 1,400 cigs not smoked and counting ...
af1acura
Member
So I ended up getting a cheapie stack on gun cabinet. I put it in my closet planning on bolting it to the wall, only problem is there aren't any studs near the mounting holes and the floor is concrete under the carpet.
Any suggestions on bolting this thing down to drywall or concrete? I'm thinking of just getting a locking door knob for the closet door but i feel like there was no point in getting the cabinet if I do that.
Any suggestions on bolting this thing down to drywall or concrete? I'm thinking of just getting a locking door knob for the closet door but i feel like there was no point in getting the cabinet if I do that.
CNYCacher
Member
There is no point to mounting it to the drywall. Drywall anchors exist but nothing that will hold up to someone yanking on your safe, this is because the drywall itself won't hold up to it, so no anchors exist of that strength.
But you are in luck with the concrete.
Go to the hardware store and get a set of concrete anchors. They look like bolts with a funny sleeve on them and a threaded end for a nut to go on. Get the biggest ones that will fit through the mounting holes in your safe. Then you will need a masonry drill bit of the proper size and a hammer drill.
Now, a hammer drill looks like most drills, except it has a special setting on it to "hammer" as it drills, which you will need to drill into the concrete. I have an 18volt DeWalt drill with a hammer setting. If you don't have one, borrow one from your handyman friend, or you can rent one. Generally the one you rent will be big and burly and make the job easier.
First thing is to move the safe into place where you want it. Mark the carpet with a sharpie marker THROUGH the mounting holes in the bottom of the safe. Pull the safe out from the closet and cut a square out around each of the marks. Make each square bigger than the hole you are going to drill. The reason for doing this is if you try to drill THROUGH the carpet, you will just catch a yarn on the drill bit and then send a run in the carpet across the room as the yarn wraps around the drill bit. You want to expose the bare concrete where you will be drilling.
Now, move the safe back into position. Look down through the mounting holes and verify that you can't see any carpet, just bare concrete. Insert the drill into the mounting hole and drill into the concrete deep enough for the anchor you bought to seat. After drilling the first anchor hole, drop the anchor into the hole and snug the nut down. Then go around and drill the rest of the holes, dropping the anchor in and snugging the nut down after EACH HOLE. When you are all done, tighten each nut. Since you are mounting over carpet, I suggest you check the tightness on the anchor nuts periodically for the next month or so.
DO NOT try to drill the holes first and then line the safe up with them, drill through the mounting holes and set the anchors one at a time. Do not drill the next hole until you set the previous anchor. If you mess up the alignment (and you will if you don't drill through the mounting holes), you will have to move the safe a good foot and start over. The only way to avoid this step is to use anchors that are of a significantly smaller diameter than the mounting hole so you have some wiggle-room, but now you are using weaker anchors than you could be using, and you still need to be darn exact.
Good luck!
But you are in luck with the concrete.
Go to the hardware store and get a set of concrete anchors. They look like bolts with a funny sleeve on them and a threaded end for a nut to go on. Get the biggest ones that will fit through the mounting holes in your safe. Then you will need a masonry drill bit of the proper size and a hammer drill.
Now, a hammer drill looks like most drills, except it has a special setting on it to "hammer" as it drills, which you will need to drill into the concrete. I have an 18volt DeWalt drill with a hammer setting. If you don't have one, borrow one from your handyman friend, or you can rent one. Generally the one you rent will be big and burly and make the job easier.
First thing is to move the safe into place where you want it. Mark the carpet with a sharpie marker THROUGH the mounting holes in the bottom of the safe. Pull the safe out from the closet and cut a square out around each of the marks. Make each square bigger than the hole you are going to drill. The reason for doing this is if you try to drill THROUGH the carpet, you will just catch a yarn on the drill bit and then send a run in the carpet across the room as the yarn wraps around the drill bit. You want to expose the bare concrete where you will be drilling.
Now, move the safe back into position. Look down through the mounting holes and verify that you can't see any carpet, just bare concrete. Insert the drill into the mounting hole and drill into the concrete deep enough for the anchor you bought to seat. After drilling the first anchor hole, drop the anchor into the hole and snug the nut down. Then go around and drill the rest of the holes, dropping the anchor in and snugging the nut down after EACH HOLE. When you are all done, tighten each nut. Since you are mounting over carpet, I suggest you check the tightness on the anchor nuts periodically for the next month or so.
DO NOT try to drill the holes first and then line the safe up with them, drill through the mounting holes and set the anchors one at a time. Do not drill the next hole until you set the previous anchor. If you mess up the alignment (and you will if you don't drill through the mounting holes), you will have to move the safe a good foot and start over. The only way to avoid this step is to use anchors that are of a significantly smaller diameter than the mounting hole so you have some wiggle-room, but now you are using weaker anchors than you could be using, and you still need to be darn exact.
Good luck!
AlaskaErik
Member
For your situation there are basically two ways to go. You can get a Homak barrel lock metal gun cabinet that you can bolt to the wall. Just make sure you hit the studs. When you move out, just fill in the holes with drywall mud and paint, if necessary. Cheap, but easier to breach. The other option is a Sentry gun safe with electronic lock. This needs to be bolted to the floor, so just load it up with ammo to make it too heavy to easily move. It also gives you about 30 minutes of fire protection. Both can be gotten at Wal-Mart, but they may be only seasonally available.
Ive got a good 700lb safe fireproof Canon. I then bought on clearance at Walmart a Stack 14 gun safe. It has thick walls (not thin sheetmetal) and takes 2 people two carry it or a dolly for one person..With it bolted down it will keep most idiots out. Good 200lbs 6 locking bolts.
Also Like others said keep your gun ownership discreet. I walk into the garage and listen for cars.If I dont hear any coming I quickly load it in my trunk. Even if an honest neighbor saw the word could spread to the wrong person.
BTW, if you got a tool box in the garage keep it locked so you dont provide tools to assit breaking into the safe.
Also Like others said keep your gun ownership discreet. I walk into the garage and listen for cars.If I dont hear any coming I quickly load it in my trunk. Even if an honest neighbor saw the word could spread to the wrong person.
BTW, if you got a tool box in the garage keep it locked so you dont provide tools to assit breaking into the safe.
RavenVT100
Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2004
- Messages
- 1,107
Everything that has been mentioned so far in this thread (that I have seen) are RSC's. There are RSCs with bolts (the "safes") and then the RSCs without (the "cabinets"). But they are all RSCs. A professional burglar is going to be able to cut through that with enough time.
Stack-On sells non-fireproof RSCs that are as safe as the "safes" in terms of security (they have bolts, rotary locks, et cetera) except they are not fireproof. They're a little less expensive because of that.
If you do go the RSC route, have it bolted into the foundation of your house or something equally strong. That way it can't merely be carried off by four or five guys. Another thing you can do is stick it in a corner with the door opening out, away from the opposite wall. That way, a pry-bar cannot be wedged in.
Someone with time and a serious piece of cutting equipment is going to be able to violate your safe whether you get a fireproof RSC that looks really nice and costs $2000or a $500 RSC with no fireproofing. The fireproofing, while giving the safe walls the appearance of being solid, are drywall material. You could dig through that with a table knife if you wanted to. It's that (relatively) thin layer of metal that a thief is going to worry about.
Stack-On sells non-fireproof RSCs that are as safe as the "safes" in terms of security (they have bolts, rotary locks, et cetera) except they are not fireproof. They're a little less expensive because of that.
If you do go the RSC route, have it bolted into the foundation of your house or something equally strong. That way it can't merely be carried off by four or five guys. Another thing you can do is stick it in a corner with the door opening out, away from the opposite wall. That way, a pry-bar cannot be wedged in.
Someone with time and a serious piece of cutting equipment is going to be able to violate your safe whether you get a fireproof RSC that looks really nice and costs $2000or a $500 RSC with no fireproofing. The fireproofing, while giving the safe walls the appearance of being solid, are drywall material. You could dig through that with a table knife if you wanted to. It's that (relatively) thin layer of metal that a thief is going to worry about.
AlaskaErik
Member
Given enough time pretty much any safe can be breached. But professional burglars aren't really interested in apartment buildings. They're interested in the affluent part of town, where the the risk of detection is lower and the property score is higher. In an apartment I'd be much more concerned about the crash and dash thief. He wants an easy score because he needs that next drug fix. This guy has done dozens if not hundreds of burglaries. He's looking for an easy score and will probably just move on to the next apartment, because he knows most people don't have a safe.
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