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Guns Pending Repair" Anyone......

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by SharpsDressedMan, Jul 6, 2010.

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  1. SharpsDressedMan

    SharpsDressedMan member

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    ......got a gun, or several, laying around, waiting for funds or the ambition to get them fixed? I have a S&W Model 10 that got a little too "tight" to close the cylinder after shooting an old (really old) friend of the family's reloads (I know, don't do it, but he was always reliable before....I guess we are all going to get old). It needs to go out to a good revolver smith, and I just haven't gotten that far yet. What have ya'll got on your "to fix" list?
     
  2. jwxspoon

    jwxspoon Member

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    Got a beautiful FN-49 rifle that just locked up after firing a cartridge; need to figure out a way to get it apart now.

    jw
     
  3. CSballer89

    CSballer89 Member

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    My M44 Mosin is hard as hell to open the bolt after firing a round. It will cycle rounds beautifully but if the trigger is pulled you have to hold the rifle awkwardly to use enoughe force to get the bolt open.
     
  4. Old Shooter

    Old Shooter Member

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    I've heard that is SOP for that model, could have just been an internet rumor.
     
  5. Deanimator

    Deanimator Member

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    I've got a partially sporterized M1917 "Enfield" with a stock that's cracked at the wrist that I used to use for 1,000 yard shooting. Some day I'd like to completely sporterize it as a .35 Whelan.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2010
  6. konfederate.kowboy

    konfederate.kowboy Member

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    I have a savage 49a that need a new plunger and spring someday. Until then it is single shot.
     
  7. crawfobj

    crawfobj Member

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    My Universal M1 Carbine needs the extractor assembly put back together after it popped off during firing 7 or 8 years ago. I'll get to it in my free time...
     
  8. rmfnla

    rmfnla Member

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    "My M44 Mosin is hard as hell to open the bolt after firing a round. It will cycle rounds beautifully but if the trigger is pulled you have to hold the rifle awkwardly to use enoughe force to get the bolt open. "


    That is SOP for excesssive headspace. Don't shoot it until you have a gunsmith check it with gauges.
     
  9. super b_AK

    super b_AK Member

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    I've got a Ruger Blackhawk .44 that sheared the screw that holds the ejector to the barrel. I keep meaning to send it in to Ruger and have them completely go through it. It has been sitting foe about 3 years now.

    I did take the step of finding the box I got the last time I sent it in (the hammer update it was my dad's gun he made me send it in when he gave it to me) and putting it in there a couple of weeks ago. So I am getting closer.
     
  10. WoofersInc

    WoofersInc Member

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    For me it is a tautus PT92 that the rear sight broke on. I haven't found one yet, so it is in pieces in a drawer.
     
  11. jwxspoon

    jwxspoon Member

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    My M44 starts easy to cycle, but as it heats up it gets harder to open. After about 20 rounds it's very difficult. Once it cools down, easy again.

    jw
     
  12. Oyeboten

    Oyeboten Member

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    Hi SharpDressedMan,


    Most likely your S&W Model 10 'Tightness' issue is an easy fix.

    This is not uncommon with the Model 10.

    Post your issue in the Gunsmithing section, and, I am confident others here would be glad to guide you through a check-list for resolving the problem.

    No need for sending it out, as long as you are at least a little Mechanically inclined and able.
     
  13. WardenWolf

    WardenWolf member

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    My father's Ruger Mark I. Needs a new recoil spring, mainspring, and firing pin. I hate 1970s products. . .that gun's just been one problem after another, but I think it's near getting fixed for good.
     
  14. gunnie

    gunnie Member

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    ..."I have a S&W Model 10 that got a little too "tight" to close the cylinder after shooting an old (really old) friend of the family's reloads (I know, don't do it, but he was always reliable before"...

    are you sure it isn't just the ejector rod backed out on its threads?

    gunnie
     
  15. SharpsDressedMan

    SharpsDressedMan member

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    "are you sure it isn't just the ejector rod backed out on its threads?"

    gunnie I checked that. Tight as it should be on the rod. I believe the load was just a tad hot, and the blast at the cylinder gap was strong enough to blow the cylinde back and ever so slightly bend the crane. I've toyed with the thought of getting it in a vise with shaped blocks (wood), and tapping it with light hammer, checking fit as I proceed, but I will see what others have to say in the gunsmithing section as suggested.
     
  16. rmfnla

    rmfnla Member

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    Yeah, once you've replaced all those 1970s parts with newer ones you should be good to go!

    Reminds me of Turner Kirkland's story about the tomahawk that had been in his family for over 100 years. The handle had been replaced three times and the head twice, but it was an honest-to-gosh heirloom!
     
  17. WardenWolf

    WardenWolf member

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    And I really do mean I hate 1970s products. Was there ANYTHING good that came out of American industry in that time period? Even my father's original 70x-serialed Combat Commander was inaccurate as hell until I installed a guide rod and a Wilson Combat match-grade bushing. It's now a good gun and is plenty reliable, but it used to shoot all over the place and jam randomly due to loose tolerances.
     
  18. markallen

    markallen Member

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    I have a Kel Tec SU16A, that right now is a single shot.
    The hammer will lock back when I manually pull the bolt back. It will load, fire, extract, eject, and feed the next round, just fine.
    But when fired, the hammer follows the bolt forward.
    I know.... send it back. Just been too busy, and I would like to figure it out myself.
    Something in the trigger group. I just haven't the time right now to take it apart.
     
  19. orionengnr

    orionengnr Member

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    My best S&Ws came from the 70s. I would gladly trade some of my more-recent-manufacture revolvers for a few more of them...
     
  20. janedoedad

    janedoedad Member

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    The hammer sheared off of my jamomatic (AccuTek AT380) one day at the range. I could send it back to them for repair, but the shipping cost would exceed the value of the pistol. Probably going to sell any usable parts and deep six the frame.
     
  21. W.E.G.

    W.E.G. Member

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    My AR-15 is very plain.

    I need to fix it up.
     
  22. Hatterasguy

    Hatterasguy Member

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    I have a Mak thats been at the gunsmith's since 5/22/10. They just don't care I guess, the response to my call is they will get to it when they do.:rolleyes: Real good for a paying customer.

    I'm going to call them again in 2 weeks and tell them if its not done I'm going to have to report it missing/stolen. I can't have a pistol not accounted for, for that long.

    Jo Jo's Gunworks in Southington, so far not too impressed.
     
  23. DeepSouth

    DeepSouth Member

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    I have a old single shot Stevens that I found in my grandfathers shop after he died. I don't really think it was his, but I want to "restore" it anyway. It just needs refinishing of the wood and metal. And maybe a little fitting done to the stock as well.
     
  24. Patriotme

    Patriotme Member

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    I've got a Taurus PT22 that just started jamming last year (every rnd). Tried new mags and ammo before that gets suggested. I never really did much with it anyway but I need to send it off.
    I also have a Ruger MKII that needs to get a new rear sight.
    Maybe I'll take care of one tomorrow but when you have a decent amount of guns the stuff that only gets used a few times per year gets forgotten.
     
  25. irishelcid

    irishelcid Member

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    Like someone mentioned above, I shot a friends relaods through my Smith 1942 M&P Victory model:banghead: Should've known better. Now it locks up and won't cock or turn the cylinder at all unless you get the cylinder back in there just right. It has something to do with the cylinder release, but I just don't have the money to fix it. Its a sweet shooter too:(
     
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