Half Cock Alignment Problem

[Hwy24]

I have a Uberti 1860 replica. At half cock the hand prevents it from rotating back in proper position to ram the ball. It is off only by a slight amount. At full cock the bolt works perfect at the end of hammer travel. Not sure how to fix the half cock issue. This Uberti was modified with the drilling of hole just above grip screw and installing Ruger spring and plunger some years ago.

 

[45 Dragoon]

I would check for a burr on top of the hand first. Then again, you said " at the end of hammer travel " - hammer travel should end at full cock . . . it may be too long anyway.

When the hand spring conversion is done, it makes for a full time positive interact of the hand and cyl ratchet. The flat spring can allow the hand to loose contact which allows a second "pickup point" on the ratchet tooth during the cycle.

Pics may help.

Mike

 

[Hwy24]

Hammer travel ends at Full Cock and not sure if taking any off hand would complete full cock with bolt in position

 

[45 Dragoon]

Then I would check for the burr on top of the hand. If none, I would round the OUTSIDE TOP CORNER of the hand. The INSIDE TOP CORNER is what finishes carry-up.

Mike

 

[45 Dragoon]

There's also a possibility of some flash from casting that may have broken off or about to that is repositioning the hand. It should be evident when you fully disassemble.

Mike

 

[Hwy24]

Yes, With your hints I will dissemble and try to see what I can. I guess half cock notch could be changed slightly. It is only the slightest amount off. Will try and get back with results.

 

[mjsdwash]

in any of the colt designs, before assuming its a mechanical problem, take it apart and look for cap pieces, at least if it used to work. Thats been all of the problems with mine.

 

[Hwy24]

It seems I did a lot of work on this 1860 and making a new hand was one of the items. And being old forgetfulness is also not helping me.

Completely cleaned handgun. So the hand (O-1 steel hardened) that was made was perfect for full cock but on half cock it stopped just short of alignment for loading. Cylinder needed to turn clock wise a fraction but was against hand. So put the original hand back in and the cylinder goes past loading alignment but can be turned clockwise to next cylinder hole. Is this the proper way it should be for loading?Full cock is fine. Thank you for your time

 

[45 Dragoon]

Sounds like you are going way too far to get to half cock. Is the hammer and or trigger correct for the particular revolver? How many "clicks" does it have? (should be 3)

Mike

 

[Hwy24]

With your handgun, going to half cock and holding the cylinder back against the hand does the loading tool line up or do you need to turn it forward some more?

 

[45 Dragoon]

No sir, and it shouldn't. Once half cock is reached, the wall between two chambers should be under the loading plunger. From there, you load the chambers in the normal fashion since that is also the loading position. . . blah blah blah.
If you are looking for a "timing mark", that would be on the recoil shield. So I guess the question that should have been asked is - What are you trying to accomplish? Please forgive my ignorance . . .

Mike

Mike

 

[Hwy24]

Then that answers my question. The hand that I made had a improper profile. The original one works fine. Thanks

 

[45 Dragoon]

Glad I could help

Mike

 

[grter]

Luck of the draw. I know of a Pietta Remington that has the same problem as yours. The hand on half cock is set up such that it will catch cylinder and prevent it from turning back when it is just a tiny hair out of alignment with the Rammer. Because of this when loading with the rammer great care has to be taken to prevent the cylinder from rotating just a tiny hair past alignment. This makes partially ramming the ball so it's not fully seated a good possibility. This can lead to air space between powder charge and ball or if the ball is wedged in but not seated below the chamber it will not rotate past the forcing cone.

Solutions are if ball is seated below chamber mouth fully rotate cylinder and CAREFULLY ALIGN chamber with rammer in a position where the rammer is aligned good enough to fully seat the ball or bullet to proper depth. If it is wedged above the chamber mouth rotate projectile one click past rammer to allow you to pull it down for cylinder removal, pull the cylinder pin and remove the cylinder then put it in again for another try. You can also pry the ball or bullet out and do it over.

Of course since yours is a Colt not a Remington it's easier just pull the wedge and remove the cylinder.

Most guns (I think) when on half cock will either line the chamber up perfectly with the ram rod when the cylinder rotates past the hand OR will have plenty of wiggle space before the hand locks the cylinder from rotating backward enabling you to easily center and ram a projectile without much fear of clicking past the point of rammer alignment.

One can learn to live with this since as far as I know there is no easy fix. It does not seem to be a problem if one remembers to be careful not to rotate the cylinder past ramrod alignment. I would not be surprised if it falls within manufacturers "specs."

You are one of the unlucky winners in the world of Italian replicas and you are not alone. This is first time I have heard if it happening on a Uberti but to be honest I don't see many complaints of this in general but I will vouch that it is a problem that exists.

With the original hand does the cylinder lock up a tiny bit before (not bad) or at the same time (even better) as the hammer reaches full cock or is full cock reached first requiring you to pull back the hammer a little more (not so good) to rotate the cylinder a tiny bit into locking position.