Hand Primer Tool Marks Primers

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Parks2055

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Hello Reloaders,
I picked up a Hornady Hand Priming Tool to have the option to prime before loading. I have read some people prefer the hand tool as they can feel the primer seat.
I primed a few cases and noticed that it leaves a circle impression on the primer. Is this normal? I do not get that when priming on the progressive.
Also, when I go to load on my Hornady progressive with the primed cases, do I just take the zip spindal out of the die or does it rely on the depriming rod to center the shell for sizing.
Thx,
 
Just remove the decapping pin from the sizing die. Better yet, prime your cases on your LNL AP press. Mine does an excellent job and speeds up the reloading process.
 
I am using the small primer pin to install small pistol primers.
So, it is unusual to get a circle mark on the primer?
 
Hello Reloaders,
I picked up a Hornady Hand Priming Tool to have the option to prime before loading. I have read some people prefer the hand tool as they can feel the primer seat.
I primed a few cases and noticed that it leaves a circle impression on the primer. Is this normal? I do not get that when priming on the progressive.
Sometimes I will see a small indent around the edge of the primer. i don't worry about it. Maybe, don't squeeze so hard.

Also, when I go to load on my Hornady progressive with the primed cases, do I just take the zip spindal out of the die or does it rely on the depriming rod to center the shell for sizing.
Thx,

I prime off the press when loading on my Hornady and Dillon SDB progressives. The cases are already sized, the mouth expanded and the cases tumbled/polished.

I prime the cases before loading. I leave the sizing die and mouth expansion die off the press when loading cartridges.

I can prime 100 cases as fast as filling a primer tube. Since I prefer to decouple resizing from loading, there is no advantage to prime on the press.

I do not use the powder measure to expand the mouth of the case.

It is my preferred method and it makes me happy. But it is not by any means the only way.
 
Parks2055 said:
I primed a few cases and noticed that it leaves a circle impression on the primer. Is this normal? I do not get that when priming on the progressive.
Not normal. I hand and press prime and do not get any impression on the primer.

Top of your priming rod should be flat and shouldn't leave any impression on the primer cup. Can you verify that it is indeed flat?
 
Top of the priming rod is flat and is slightly smaller in diameter than the primer.
That smaller diameter is leaving a slight impression on the primer.
I should post a picture for a better visual. Will see if I can get it in a picture.
 
The diameter of the rod should be the same size as the primer cup. Sounds like the smaller rod face is indenting the primer cup.

If you are indeed using small priming rod for small primers, I would contact the manufacturer/email some pictures along with the indented primer cups.

Yes, pictures would help.
 
You don't specify which brand of primers. Some are softer than others and require a more delicate hand to prevent this mark from showing up. I sometimes have this problem with Federal primers but never on CCI. Others may have more experience and can give more extensive feedback.

I have found that if your primer pockets are clean it is easier to 'feel' when the primer bottoms out in the pocket.
 
I have a Hornady priming tool that does the same exact thing. Run the priming arm up and look closely at it. Mine has a slight burr where it wasn't machined quiet enough that sticks up and causes the primers to mark. Mine is the large primer pin. I'm thinking I'll just file it down.
 
If it's a crescent moon shape that approximates the radius of the seating stud, that's not good. Something might be cocked and or the shell holder is wonky.
 
I am using WSP primers.
I think I am just applying too much pressure. I use a fair bit of force to seat on the progressive, but I guess thay does not translate well to a hand primer.
I took a picture - how do I attach it? I only see a button to make a link to an image.
 
Based on your picture, your seating rod face looks to be undersized.

Seating a primer deeper should result in more flattened primer cup. When hand priming, I normally seat my primers to .004" below flush and the following primers were seated to .004"/.008" below flush for another thread. As you can see, seating the primers deeper resulted in flatter primer cup without any indentation. I would give Hornady a call with a reference to this thread.

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Looks like the shell holder is a bit loose and not centering the case in the priming tool.

Some shell holders designed for 40 S&W are a bit too "universal" for use with other similar cartridges.

Just in case there is a sharp edge on your seating stem, stone the edge of the seating surface of your seating stem. Just enough to take off any sharp edge but not enough to really see that you have done anything.

Like I said before, I see those marks on occasions although not quite as deep. I have never had an issue with them. They all go bang as designed.
 
Looks like the seating plug is too small. It should be close to the same dia as the primer, a min should cover the flat face.

Does the primer punch fits the hole through the holder closely? Is the primer pin installed upside down by chance?

I only use the primer seater on my LNL-AP. I bought it for speed so why hand seat.
 
I guess I will call Hornady to inquire. It is not upside down, would not reach installed reverse. It's the small primer stem with WSP primers and is actually quite snug in the plastic housing. Weird.

Side note:
I was wondering the same thing with the E stamped on the primer head. From the factory that way? Strange.
 
It looks as if the seater stem is canted. Either the face is not square, or it is undersized for the channel it runs in. Looks small as well. What diameter is the seater stem? Mine is a hair over .202. (Not a Hornady)
 
I use the Hornady Handheld Primer and my small primer rod is 0.186 in. in diameter. My rod was quite snug when I first started loading 9's. I was using a Lee shell holder and that was causing the problem. The opening in the shellholder was a tad small. I switched to a Hornady shellholder which allowed everything to move freely.
 
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I dealt with these exact same little problems with hand primers when I started. I tried a few different types of hand primers and was never satisfied. The loads still all went bang, but when I am making something, I demand better. A tool that accomplishes this task shouldn't leave marks like that.

I now use an RCBS Bench Prime, and I recently (carfeully!) stoned and polished the face of the seater stem and it gives picture perfect results. There is a nice spring loaded cup that holds the primer centered on the rod (which is pushing on the primer.)

It is also way more ergonomic, when priming larger quantities of brass. I wouldn't prime any other way now. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool
 
Parks2055 said:
Certaindeaf said:
jim243 said:
Where in the world did that "E" come from???
You can get monogrammed seating punches that do that.

Not really. That's from the factory.
I was wondering the same thing with the E stamped on the primer head. From the factory that way? Strange.
They are PMC Non-Toxic SP primers. I guess "E" stands for environmental?

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