I just bought a new gun safe & I have to get it down to the basement, so I hope someone much more clever than me can come up with an easy way to do this. It is about 5 ft tall x 2 ft wide & 2 ft deep and weighs 400 lbs. I was thinking of renting some sort of dolly to strap it to so it would be easier to get it down the stairs. The problem is, there is a wall directly at the bottom of the stairs about 21†from the base of the stairs, so I won’t have enough room to get the dolly all the way to the bottom. I can get the safe to about the last step before it will be bumping the wall. I’ll then have to somehow lift it over the side of the stairs and to the left without getting a hernia or killing myself. Any ideas ?
Have to move a safe – need ideas
- Thread starter Mantis
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P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Short of removing the bottom post and part of the handrail ..... I think the only way may be ........
Break out the donuts and a coupla six packs . and get three strong buddies along ..... 100Lbs each ... should be liftable and manouverable over the end part.
When I had to shift a medium size lathe ... that's what I did!!
Break out the donuts and a coupla six packs . and get three strong buddies along ..... 100Lbs each ... should be liftable and manouverable over the end part.
When I had to shift a medium size lathe ... that's what I did!!
Rent the dolly. Buy a case of beer. Offer friends free cold beer for help.
P95Carry's got the right idea.
Heck, buy a big package of bratwursts and make a party out of it.
But be sure the safe is moved in before you allow the beer to get opened.
hillbilly
P95Carry's got the right idea.
Heck, buy a big package of bratwursts and make a party out of it.
But be sure the safe is moved in before you allow the beer to get opened.
hillbilly
Hkmp5sd
Member
Lots of warm bodies, preferably strong.
Since you are in confined areas, forego the dolly. Lay the safe on a thick rug or piece of indoor/outdoor carpet and slide it down the stairs.
The main problem with moving a safe isn't so much the weight as its awkward shape and size. Ever see the suction gripped handles used to carry large pieces of glass? Borrow or steal several so that everyone has a handle to hold and lifting it over the handrail shouldn't be that hard.
Since you are in confined areas, forego the dolly. Lay the safe on a thick rug or piece of indoor/outdoor carpet and slide it down the stairs.
The main problem with moving a safe isn't so much the weight as its awkward shape and size. Ever see the suction gripped handles used to carry large pieces of glass? Borrow or steal several so that everyone has a handle to hold and lifting it over the handrail shouldn't be that hard.
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Good point Hk but .. if it's like my safe and has that sorta ''rough cast'' paint finish .. nothing but nothing will stick to it!
Rembrandt
Member
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....your's sounds like it should be manageable with enough people...wrap it in some cheap carpet to protect the finish, tack a couple of 2X10's over the stair treads to form a ramp and let gravity do the rest. Mine weighed almost 4 times that much (1500 lbs), we took the door off and did it in two pieces....of course a couple of pizza's and a 12 pack helped.
Preacherman
Member
I've had to do this a couple of times. Here are some things that worked for me:
1. Get hold of some of the webbing straps that are used to tow light vehicles. You can buy these at Wal-Mart for a few bucks. They're usually about 8' long.
2. Get hold of some good strong rope - not the thin synthetic stuff that bites into your hands under load, but some old-fashioned 1" manila or something like that.
3. Get a heavy tarpaulin or a piece of old carpet, sufficiently long to reach down the stairs.
4. Get some work gloves - the thicker, the better!
Place the carpet as a "runner" down the stairs. (It must leave space at the edge for feet - trying to stand on a slanted carpet leads to all sorts of bad language, bad temper, and (sometimes) bad injuries!) Place the safe at the head of the stairs, with the locks/handles facing toward the stairwell (so that they'll be on top when the safe is reclined).
Position one or two of the towing straps beneath the safe, with the looped ends coming up either side (or one at the sides, and one at the front and back - whichever is easier). Thread rope loops through the loops at the end of the strap(s), and get your strong guys (wearing work gloves) to hold onto the ropes. Position one or two other guys at the bottom of the stairs (making sure they have an escape route handy in case someone lets go of a rope! )
Tilt the safe onto its back, and slide the edge over the top of the first stair. The guys on the ropes will have to take the strain at this point, but with work gloves, it shouldn't be a problem. (Hint - make sure the ropes are long enough that they can hang back behind the safe, so that someone can stand in the middle, hands on the safe, to steer it.)
Slide the safe down the stairs, slowly, steering to prevent it hitting the walls. The guys on the ropes can help with this by pulling tight on one and loosening the other, if necessary. The guys at the bottom of the stairs can also lend a hand with steering if needed.
At the bottom of the stairs, when the base hits the floor, keep tension on the ropes while the guys at the bottom bring the safe into an upright position.
Hope this helps...
1. Get hold of some of the webbing straps that are used to tow light vehicles. You can buy these at Wal-Mart for a few bucks. They're usually about 8' long.
2. Get hold of some good strong rope - not the thin synthetic stuff that bites into your hands under load, but some old-fashioned 1" manila or something like that.
3. Get a heavy tarpaulin or a piece of old carpet, sufficiently long to reach down the stairs.
4. Get some work gloves - the thicker, the better!
Place the carpet as a "runner" down the stairs. (It must leave space at the edge for feet - trying to stand on a slanted carpet leads to all sorts of bad language, bad temper, and (sometimes) bad injuries!) Place the safe at the head of the stairs, with the locks/handles facing toward the stairwell (so that they'll be on top when the safe is reclined).
Position one or two of the towing straps beneath the safe, with the looped ends coming up either side (or one at the sides, and one at the front and back - whichever is easier). Thread rope loops through the loops at the end of the strap(s), and get your strong guys (wearing work gloves) to hold onto the ropes. Position one or two other guys at the bottom of the stairs (making sure they have an escape route handy in case someone lets go of a rope!
)Tilt the safe onto its back, and slide the edge over the top of the first stair. The guys on the ropes will have to take the strain at this point, but with work gloves, it shouldn't be a problem. (Hint - make sure the ropes are long enough that they can hang back behind the safe, so that someone can stand in the middle, hands on the safe, to steer it.)
Slide the safe down the stairs, slowly, steering to prevent it hitting the walls. The guys on the ropes can help with this by pulling tight on one and loosening the other, if necessary. The guys at the bottom of the stairs can also lend a hand with steering if needed.
At the bottom of the stairs, when the base hits the floor, keep tension on the ropes while the guys at the bottom bring the safe into an upright position.
Hope this helps...
Monkeyleg
Member.
Forget the buddies and the beer. A bit over a year ago I had the opposite problem: I wanted to move a safe from a friend's basement to my second floor. The stairs out of the friend's basement was a straight shot. Getting the safe from ground level to 2nd story in my house required two 90-degree turns.
I hired professional movers, and one of them almost got squashed trying to make the first turn up the staircase. They're insured by the company for that; you're not. Your squashed buddy could become your squashed litigant.
It cost $250 to move the safe. The moving company sent a guy out to repair the gouges in the oak steps, the dings in the wall, and the damage to the oak flooring, all part of their contract.
The idea of having friends help me was plan A. Today I'm really glad I paid the extra $250 for plan B.
I hired professional movers, and one of them almost got squashed trying to make the first turn up the staircase. They're insured by the company for that; you're not. Your squashed buddy could become your squashed litigant.
It cost $250 to move the safe. The moving company sent a guy out to repair the gouges in the oak steps, the dings in the wall, and the damage to the oak flooring, all part of their contract.
The idea of having friends help me was plan A. Today I'm really glad I paid the extra $250 for plan B.
Ok, seriously, it's only 400 pounds. My first safe was 575 and I moved it by myself with a refrigerator dolly. I'm not that strong, it's just a matter of using leverage and moving slowly.
Since you can't use the dolly, go with the carpet and tow strap suggestion that's been made. You'd be surprised how easily it will slide. Get a few of your buddies and knock it out. With 4 of you, you'll make quick work of it. You're not actually lifting it, so you probably won't have to exert much.
Since you can't use the dolly, go with the carpet and tow strap suggestion that's been made. You'd be surprised how easily it will slide. Get a few of your buddies and knock it out. With 4 of you, you'll make quick work of it. You're not actually lifting it, so you probably won't have to exert much.
I work on machines that weigh in the 400 to 600 range and are square like a safe. The company gets pros to move this stuff it is serious I have seen pros get hurt. Also be sure that the stairs can handle the load of the safe and three or four big old boys plus equipment. Good luck be safe.
The only suggestion I have besides make it fun (the pizza and beer would get me to help) is to make it a safe operation, so to speak. Preacherman's suggestions are excellent. The straps are a must. Using hands and arms only on an unwieldy safe makes it a very hard task and a very dangerous one. Don't let anyone try to 'guide' or balance the safe from below, you'd be asking for trouble if you do.
However, Monkeyleg's idea is the best. If you watch pro movers at work you can appreciate their techniques for saving your goods and their own bodies while moving very heavy loads. It's worth the money.
However, Monkeyleg's idea is the best. If you watch pro movers at work you can appreciate their techniques for saving your goods and their own bodies while moving very heavy loads. It's worth the money.
Archie
Member
Used to work for a lock and safe outfit.
Pay the pros.
Pay the pros.
Chuck Dye
Member
I moved my safe (900 pounds) from the car to its place in the living room with the help of five guys. The safe has a lift point, a threaded boss for an eyebolt, in the top. Roping off to a rafter before negotiating the door sill very likely prevented serious injury to one or more of us. Hiring professionals is worth it. If you do it yourself, remember rules two and four, they apply.
Kobun
Member
CAN YOU TAKE THE DOOR OFF?
If you can, that will remove a big part of the weight, and it is much easier to move in two pieces.
Oh, and webbing straps are important!
If you can, that will remove a big part of the weight, and it is much easier to move in two pieces.
Oh, and webbing straps are important!
When a friend purchased a safe the company sent only one guy over to get it in place. They had no idea that it had to go up a step, turn, up 2 more steps, travel 12 feet, turn and up a 4 inch step just to get into the house. The guy broke out a set of what looked like 4 3ft nylon or teflon rails. It made the job simple because the 3 of us laid a pair of rails out and slid the safe along them to the next pair. If we had to go up a step or 3 we laid the thing over onto the pair of rails at the new level and slid it along, and around, until we could put it back upright again.
While they may not work for your situation, never want to put something on rails headed down stairs unless a new door is wanted in the wall at the bottom
, the idea is to put them at the bottom so you can turn it to go through the doorway at the bottom of the stairs instead of having to lift in such constrained space.
While they may not work for your situation, never want to put something on rails headed down stairs unless a new door is wanted in the wall at the bottom
, the idea is to put them at the bottom so you can turn it to go through the doorway at the bottom of the stairs instead of having to lift in such constrained space.DougCxx
Member
Well the simplest way to do this is just have a dolly and a few strong men who can muscle it around. Attach ropes to the dolly handles and have the people stand at the top of the stairs and lower it down. That way four people can help lower it, and nobody is underneath it if it falls.
........
But with some extra equipment, two people could do this easy, even one in a pinch:
--- first get some cinderblocks, and stack them in the stairwell bottom level with the bottom-most stair, so that you don't end up lowering the safe "all the way" to the bottom, where it has to be lifted again. Put them on the floor, right up next to the last stair edge. You need as many cinderblocks laid there as it will take to easily turn the safe on.
--- then get a block-and-tackle and the rope for it, a cheaper one that takes half-inch or so rope will do. The rope will go three or four passes, so a single strand of it only needs to support 150 lbs or so, tops.
--- Then park a vehicle near the top of the stairs, to fasten the top pulley of the block and tackle to. Strap the safe on a dolly, tie the dolly handles to the lower block+tackle pulley, and the upper pulley to the vehicle (however necessary), and you will be able to gently lower the safe down until it is resting on the cinderblocks.
....... This assumes that there is enough ceiling clearance for the safe to be standing up while it's on the cinder blocks, of course. Then all you have to do is turn the dolly+safe, and get it down the last eight inches or so--some patio blocks stacked up would do, dropping it two inches at a time. Or a bunch of scrap wood, set as little "steps", would cusion the landings a bit too. If you set up any kind of an inclined ramp, then lay the top down so that the dolly handles are resting on the basement floor, and then (using ropes attached) pull the base of the dolly off the cinderblocks, letting the whole thing slide down the ramp on its own--onto the basement floor.
~
........
But with some extra equipment, two people could do this easy, even one in a pinch:
--- first get some cinderblocks, and stack them in the stairwell bottom level with the bottom-most stair, so that you don't end up lowering the safe "all the way" to the bottom, where it has to be lifted again. Put them on the floor, right up next to the last stair edge. You need as many cinderblocks laid there as it will take to easily turn the safe on.
--- then get a block-and-tackle and the rope for it, a cheaper one that takes half-inch or so rope will do. The rope will go three or four passes, so a single strand of it only needs to support 150 lbs or so, tops.
--- Then park a vehicle near the top of the stairs, to fasten the top pulley of the block and tackle to. Strap the safe on a dolly, tie the dolly handles to the lower block+tackle pulley, and the upper pulley to the vehicle (however necessary), and you will be able to gently lower the safe down until it is resting on the cinderblocks.
....... This assumes that there is enough ceiling clearance for the safe to be standing up while it's on the cinder blocks, of course. Then all you have to do is turn the dolly+safe, and get it down the last eight inches or so--some patio blocks stacked up would do, dropping it two inches at a time. Or a bunch of scrap wood, set as little "steps", would cusion the landings a bit too. If you set up any kind of an inclined ramp, then lay the top down so that the dolly handles are resting on the basement floor, and then (using ropes attached) pull the base of the dolly off the cinderblocks, letting the whole thing slide down the ramp on its own--onto the basement floor.
~
ID_shooting
Member
I agree with hiring movers to come do it. Not only should a good one be insured, they likley allready have the proper equipment. When I moved out of house and in with a roomate, we moved both of our safes ourselvs, never again. When I got married and moved out, I paid some movers to move the safe for me. cost me like 200.00 but they knew just what to do and didn't hurt a thing.
Save the beer and BBQ for guys to help you clean all the guns before you put them up
Save the beer and BBQ for guys to help you clean all the guns before you put them up
Highland Ranger
Member
Why not leave that one where it is and buy a new one.
Have the guys who deliver the new one put it in the basement.
You always can use more space for guns!
(but honey I bought this new safe now I have to fill it up . . . )
Have the guys who deliver the new one put it in the basement.
You always can use more space for guns!
(but honey I bought this new safe now I have to fill it up . . . )
Jeff Thomas
Member
Huck Phinn has it ... I was wondering if anyone would mention that handy threaded hole in the top of most safes. Professional safe movers rely on that (using an eye bolt) when they move the safe out of the truck, and I'm sure they use it at the factory as well.
Call the guys that sell Fort Knox or some other quality safe ... they move these things for a living, and will be glad to help you. I've paid about $250 in the past also, and it is well worth it.
Another point ... when you get close to your destination, use golf balls or pvc pipe under the safe to move it into position, and a pry bar to lift the safe and remove the pvc / balls when you're in position.
But ... if you hire a safe-moving pro, you'll get to see all of this in action. And it is always interesting to watch a pro.
Good luck, and be careful.
Regards from TX
Call the guys that sell Fort Knox or some other quality safe ... they move these things for a living, and will be glad to help you. I've paid about $250 in the past also, and it is well worth it.
Another point ... when you get close to your destination, use golf balls or pvc pipe under the safe to move it into position, and a pry bar to lift the safe and remove the pvc / balls when you're in position.
But ... if you hire a safe-moving pro, you'll get to see all of this in action. And it is always interesting to watch a pro.
Good luck, and be careful.
Regards from TX
From all previous estimates, pros will cost a theoretical $250 to move your safe for you.
How much do you make in a day? How 'bout your friends? Would a minor back injury that put you down for a coupla days or a week cost more than pros moving it? Pizza (or ribs with all the fixins) and beer for 4 of my friends and my wife and me would run at least ~$70-90. I'd pay the pros. No sweat, no aggravation, anyone gets hurt, it ain't my problem, they got paid, and I ain't in a sorry situation.
How much do you make in a day? How 'bout your friends? Would a minor back injury that put you down for a coupla days or a week cost more than pros moving it? Pizza (or ribs with all the fixins) and beer for 4 of my friends and my wife and me would run at least ~$70-90. I'd pay the pros. No sweat, no aggravation, anyone gets hurt, it ain't my problem, they got paid, and I ain't in a sorry situation.
Mantis & All;
I've been doing this for years, professionaly. My first suggestion is, of course, hire it done. Failing that, I've got a coupla recomendations. The nylon straps are good, but don't rely on just a coupla guys with ropes to let it slide down under muscle power. Either get a good belay point & have a 3rd guy ready to snub it or put a length of 2" heavy wall pipe across a door frame or other solid, stable, resting point & use a come-along to belay.
Actually, a 400 lb container is not that heavy. I doubt we'd charge $250.00 to do it. But charges vary in different areas. Get a coupla estimates though.
900F
I've been doing this for years, professionaly. My first suggestion is, of course, hire it done. Failing that, I've got a coupla recomendations. The nylon straps are good, but don't rely on just a coupla guys with ropes to let it slide down under muscle power. Either get a good belay point & have a 3rd guy ready to snub it or put a length of 2" heavy wall pipe across a door frame or other solid, stable, resting point & use a come-along to belay.
Actually, a 400 lb container is not that heavy. I doubt we'd charge $250.00 to do it. But charges vary in different areas. Get a coupla estimates though.
900F
Round Gun Shooter
Member
KOBUN said it!!!!
On my 800 pound Browning Safe, the door is about 200 pounds. I was able to put the safe into my cellar office alone with proper dolly equipment, straps, and a back brace.
The beer/pizza idea works just don't open the beer until the safe is in place Dolly, good rope, and no one between the dolly and that wall will work. Remember, Gravity will take it down.
Regards
On my 800 pound Browning Safe, the door is about 200 pounds. I was able to put the safe into my cellar office alone with proper dolly equipment, straps, and a back brace.
The beer/pizza idea works just don't open the beer until the safe is in place
Dolly, good rope, and no one between the dolly and that wall will work. Remember, Gravity will take it down. Regards
Kingcreek
Member
I moved a 750# safe into my house. it was easy. I picked up the phone book and the phone and the pros did the rest.
Monkeyleg and others are right.
They make special people for moving safes. By the time you realize you have a problem, its too late to do anything about it.
Hire the proffessionals or somebody is going to get hurt.
Monkeyleg and others are right.
They make special people for moving safes. By the time you realize you have a problem, its too late to do anything about it.
Hire the proffessionals or somebody is going to get hurt.
A. I always agreed with the "use your friends wisely" comment (WC Fields?). I would hate for one of my friends or me to get hurt moving something like this. Although 400 lbs isn't terrifically heavy, it can make it difficult to breath and/or somethbody may be hurt trying to keep it under control. Those who have lived to my ripe old age (52) have usually barely avoided injury on one of these self-help missions. It's a form of cheating death that appeals to younger folk. Ask a pro or two for an estimate--you may be surprised.
B. Seems like the primary question was how to get a 24" safe thru a 21" space. I'll spare you the building code pep talk, and ask if there is merely a railing at the bottom of the stairs or if it is a weight bearing post. If the former, the rail must be detached and you may want to build a temporary landing at the second step's level.
If there is a wall or weight bearing post on the side of the stairwell, it can be done but if there's another option such as coming in through a removed egress window, it'll be a whole lot cheaper.
Let us know how it goes!
B. Seems like the primary question was how to get a 24" safe thru a 21" space. I'll spare you the building code pep talk, and ask if there is merely a railing at the bottom of the stairs or if it is a weight bearing post. If the former, the rail must be detached and you may want to build a temporary landing at the second step's level.
If there is a wall or weight bearing post on the side of the stairwell, it can be done but if there's another option such as coming in through a removed egress window, it'll be a whole lot cheaper.
Let us know how it goes!
Thanks for the replies. Since my biggest problem will be a lack of room at the bottom of the stairs, a temporary landing may be the way to go. I managed to get it off of my vehicle today by myself with breaking me or the safe, but I have a couple of buddies lined up to help later in the week.
I appreciate the recommendations about hiring movers, and if this weighed more I wouldn't hesitate doing that, but I think we should be able to handle it if we do it smart. I just hope this doesn't turn out to be one of those "Hey, watch this...this will be funny, hold my beer" deals.
I appreciate the recommendations about hiring movers, and if this weighed more I wouldn't hesitate doing that, but I think we should be able to handle it if we do it smart. I just hope this doesn't turn out to be one of those "Hey, watch this...this will be funny, hold my beer" deals.
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