HELP! Cimarron 1872 Open Top **Disassembly** ???

[mm6mm6]

I shot my Cimarron 1872 .44 Special Open Top today for the first time. I bought it in October '08 and I just got it back from Bob Munden who did a full action, trigger, spring, bolt re-cut, and forcing cone hone on it. It shot wonderfully!

I took the wedge out, but I can't get the barrel to come off. What's the trick? I tried putting a thick plastic toothbrush between the barrel and the cylinder and then rocking it back and forth but I can only get the barrel to come about 1/64" away from the frame.

Does anyone know the secret to getting this revolver apart so I can clean it?

I want to take pics of the targets I shot today, but I need to clean the gun first.

Gratuitous pics before I shot it:







Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out!

-Steve

 

[mykeal]

No trick, really. Make SURE the wedge is fully clear of the arbor (if you can't wiggle it, it's not clear). I'm not sure if the ejector rod can be used to push against the cylinder face like the loading lever on the percussion open tops or not, but that might help.

 

[arcticap]

What a beauty!
I would be afraid to scratch or ding the beautiful finish by using anything metallic to gain leverage.
So I would try to fashion a wooden wedge of some sort and gently tap it through the space in between the cylinder and frame to try to mechanically separate it.
Fashion a mallet with a protective cover or face. I wonder if you could put the flat backsides of 2 or 3 wooden clothespins together if that would create a thick enough wedge?
Put some lube on the sticky frame pins.
If you don't want to do that or if it doesn't work, call Mr. Munden for advice.

 

[arcticap]

Here's an example of a gunsmith's prying tool:

http://www.brigadeqm.com/cgi-bin/ta...agenumber.ptx=1&M5.ctx=30634&M5COPY.ctx=30634


TANGODOWN ARMORER TOOL COMBO PACK
The 10-8 Performance Armorer Tool is a simple nonmarring tool molded from glass reinforced nylon. It is useful for countless applications where prying or poking with metal tools can easily damage your work. It is approximately 5" long and 1/4" in diameter, and features a rigid chisel pointed end and a semi-flexible flat blade end. Radial gripping ridges are molded into the body of the tool to prevent slipping when working with greasy parts. Each combo kit includes 2 Armorer tools - one in in Flat Dark Earth and one in Foliage Green.

Item Number: TDN01

You might be able to use a tool with a chisel tip like this to gain leverage where the 1/64th" separates from the frame to drive it apart from there, and/or from where you used the toothbrush for prying.

 

[mm6mm6]

Phew! Thanks everyone! I got it! The concept of a clothespin opened my brainwaves. I didn't have a clothespin, so I tried sawing a piece of wood at an angle to make one. Too bad I didn't have a more solid chunk of wood, it splintered apart when I tried to drive it between the frame and the cylinder.

I searched the house for something wedge shaped but more sturdy. My daughter has a set of markers that get pretty thick after their sharper tip. Her blue one now has some scrapes on it, but it worked perfectly as an 1872 wedge!

Thanks for kicking my brain into high gear!

Here's my targets from shooting this beauty yesterday! Munden does awesome work!

 

[BHP FAN]

SAWEET! I don't think there's a better looking revolver made.

 

[Macgille]

An awesome revolver sir. What does mr. Munden charge for a workover like that?

 

[mm6mm6]

Thanks for the kind words! His Option #1 action job is $175. The forcing cone was $45 and the engraving on the barrel was $40.

www.bob-munden.com has all the info.

There are other gunsmiths who can probably do a great job, if not just as good a job. Their prices are all around the same amount. But Munden has the world famous reputation and he's on tv every week....

I "get" his sense of humor so I like him alot.

 

[DuncanSA]

Bob Munden (who I greatly admire) may have tuned your revolver, but it was YOU
who shot those excellent groups.

Congratulations all round.