help! - garand op rod dragging

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greyling22

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CMP garand, new walnut stock installed.

rifle fails to cycle reliably with my reloads of 150grn fmj over 45.5grns of h4895.

I failed the tilt test with some binding of the op rod to the stock, so I relieved the stock and tried again. It's still binding up somewhere. I coated the inside of the stock with lipstick and couldn't find any rubbing marks. I pulled the gas cylinder (still binding) and observed the ferrule not touching the op rod.

When the stock is removed the op rod moves freely.
When the stock is installed, but without the trigger group, the op rod moves freely.
When I install the trigger group and start to lock it down is when I start to get binding. It takes a lot of effort to get the trigger guard closed. There are wear marks between the op rod and the barrel. I don't know if they are supposed to be there. if you are sighting down the barrel the wear marks are at 6 and 4

When the bolt is open and I try to close it, it drags until the bolt is halfway closed, then it moves freely.
 
The classic "I changed X and things don't work, but it can't be X" post.

If the trigger guard is hard to close on a new stock, relieve the stock until it works like it should. If the op rod binds on a new stock, it is 100-1 the problem is in the stock.

Jim
 
Oh no Jim, I'm quite sure it's the X I changed that is causing the problems. I"m just trying to figure out what I need to do to make them go away. I just can't for the life of me figure out where it is binding. I already relieved the trigger guard from the factory to allow the guard to close. I could relieve more, but it's my understanding the trigger guard should be hard to close.

Col. I did lipstick the op rod and can't find a drag spot.

bigdog, I've got a post over in the cmp forum too. I started there but haven't found a answer.
 
The Op Rod is not rubbing on the stock. The Op Rod will not slide freely with the trigger group installed as the bolt is hitting the hammer. Sounds to me everything is fine

It is normal to have rub marks on the back/bottom of the barrel were it mounts to the reciver. This is a grease point

The trigger guard is supposed to be hard to close in fact should take alot of pressure to close it.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=496002&highlight=boyds



Is suspect its either your handloads or you have other issues with your rifle causeing it not to cycle properly.
Gas screw not tight or cracked or leaking
Worn Op Rod Piston
Worn Gas cylinder
Worn Op Rod Spring
not properly greased
or a combination of the above

Not likely but possibly
Gas port not aligned
gas port clogged
 
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Orlando, real nice pictorial in your link. Shows very good detail.

@greyling22, I would look real close at the possibilities mentioned by Orlando.

Finally, the CMP is very, very good at resolving problems with their rifles. They want you to be a happy Garand owner so I would give them a call or send along an email explaining the problems in great detail.

Ron
 
the hammer! now I feel stupid. I forgot that. Hopefully relieving the wood where it was dragging will have solved my problem. I'll pull the hammer and see if that's all it was.

there is a little bit of resistance with the gas piston when opening the bolt the first time, and there is a little carbon built up on it, but it looks to be in decent shape. Thanks the the help orlando.
 
Again I seriously doubt the Op Rod dragging on the stock has anything to do with the rifle issue. There has to be something else going on
I have had three of these commercial stocks and they all rubbed on the stock and not one rifle malfunctioned because of it. In fact on rubbed on the side of the stock and real hard on the stock ferrule and still functioned.

Here is the proper way to do the Tilt Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIoxbtdPXY
 
rifle fails to cycle reliably with my reloads of 150grn fmj over 45.5grns of h4895.

What I am missing is what exactly "fails to cycle" means. There has to be some more detail. For example does the rifle eject the spent cartridge and fail chamber or fully chamber the next cartridge?

This may also go better if you had some known good ammunition to try rather than just your hand loads. If the possibilities Orlando mentions in his post #7 are not the problem that pretty much leaves the ammunition as being suspect.

Assuming a good CMP rifle my money is on the ammunition. I also agree with Orlando in that I doubt the operating rod dragging on the stock is the problem.

Ron
 
at 45.5 grns the rifle fired and ejected all rounds, but the clip did not PING out at the end.

at 45.0 grns all rounds ejected but once was a stovepipe and 2 times the rifle did not feed the next round. at the last round the PING failed to occur.

now, the op rod was dragging a bit on the stock in 1 spot and the gun was dry.
 
If the empty enbloc is not ejecting you need to check the clip ejector spring, it probably needs replaced

On every Garand I get I do these things before firing
Replace op rod spring with one from Orion 7
Completely tear down rifle, clean and grease
Clean chamber with chamber brush
You need to do the above things then make sure the gas screw is tight.
Take rifle back out and shoot it and report back
 
It pops out fine when I manually rack the bolt back.

But i have now fitted the stock, torn down and lubed, hopefully it is god to go. I wont be able to test it for a couple of weeks though. Business trip blegh!
 
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