Help! I can’t get my windage to adjust enough on my new scope!

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According to Leupold's website that scope has 49 MOA of windage adjustment. That's close to 25" left and right at 100 yards! Some simple math shows that without adjusting windage the scope would only need to be rotated less than 1/2 degree out of true to use up half of the windage adjustment. If the scope base holes are off 0.5 degrees from true you could be at the end of the adjustment in the scope. I'm not a fan of Savage rifles having seen some terrible quality from them, so if Leupold determines that the scope is good, your next call might be to Savage. One trick I've used to check the alignment of the scope base threaded holes is to thread in some scope rail screws without the rail which which will show if the holes are off relative to the centerline of the receiver and barrel.

Another thing you could do is rotate the scope 90 degrees in the rings and use the elevation adjustment as windage adjustment. You could use this method to rule out the receiver or windage turret as being the problem ... maybe.
 
When my Leupold w AO wouldn't zero on my 541T-HB I slapped my brothers cheap Tasco 4x in the rings and it zeroed no prob.
Cheap and easy test,
 
I have one Savage Rifle that was so bad that I had the gunsmith that I use drill and tap new holes in the action for the scope bases.
 
First determine if the scope mounting holes in the rifle receiver are aligned with the barrel. Then inspect the rings themselves. Many of the lesser brand China made rings are not true. Get some Warne or Leupold or Talley. If it is not these things then it could be your scope, if the scope is a Leupold and the rings as well, hmmm, it would have to be either a bad scope or the rifle.
 
FWIW, I have a set of Burris Signature Zee rings I'm looking to unload since I don't use them anymore and will soon have a set of offset inserts for them that I ordered a little while ago. They are .005", .010", and .020" offset for situations like yours. Depending on what is causing your issues, it could be a much cheaper solution. That is, if the problem is actually running out of windage due to the alignment of the mounts or rings.

I ordered the offset originally due to running out of elevation due to mismatched bases, but ended up ordering a DNZ Game Reaper base instead because I like the setup a little better.
 
FWIW, I have a set of Burris Signature Zee rings I'm looking to unload since I don't use them anymore and will soon have a set of offset inserts for them that I ordered a little while ago. They are .005", .010", and .020" offset for situations like yours. Depending on what is causing your issues, it could be a much cheaper solution. That is, if the problem is actually running out of windage due to the alignment of the mounts or rings.
I have a rifle that these rings saved the day for me on, they also don't mark up your scope tube and seem immune to scope slipping. You can use them vertical or horizontal to cant in the direction you need. I like them for centering the reticle in you adjustment range so you don't have to run adjustment out getting to where you want, put a borescope on and use the ring inserts to get in the ballpark.
 
Given it's a good scope and considering I've only had one out out all the scopes I've bought over 50 years. All of variable cost and brand. I would have to say mounts. Years ago when dad stopped hunting he gave me his rifle. Stated after about 185 yards have to aim 3 high 3 right. I was like, no, not right.
It had a windage adjustable mount. The mount was all the way one way, scope like 2 turns to bottom out other way. Cenentered everything and it has shot straight ever since. Taken deer out at 300 yards with it. He just thought he was leaving well enough alone.
 
I had wondered about what you found out. By your like of the last post I assume you do have Leupold rings that had the scope crooked on the rifle?
 
Start with something super simply. Take a yard stick or other long straight edge and lay it across the base screws. If it doesn't line up with the centerline of the barrel, then the base is not straight and you will have to either use the adjustable bases or send it to the manufacturer to get fixed. If the base screw holes are relatively close to centered, then will need to look at the bases and rings next. Sometimes picatinny and weaver do not play well together and end up lifted or offset when tightened. Only after you are reasonably sure the base screws, bases, and rings are centered with the barrel should you change around the optic itself.
 
Sadly at this time no real update I just haven’t had time to look at it we were placed on 6 day work weeks now and I don’t have the time or the energy believe me I will let everyone know when I get a resolution to this problem it is bugging the crap out of me
All you need to fix it is a set of bases and rings which are windage adjustable at the rear such as the Redfield Jr./ Sr. or Leupold standard which are basically the same thing. These will fix any windage issue you may have. If you try a different scope and it zeroes near the mechanical zero then you orher scope is the problem. If you try another scope and it also runs out of adjustment then you have a ring/ mount problem OR the receiver was drilled off of center. So if a new scope cures it then the receveiver is drilled right. If it does not cure it, get some windage adjustable bases. Then during initial zero, with the scope at mechanical zero, adjust windage by the screws on the rear base.
 
Update just heard back from the mothership

scope A the 6.5-20x40 needed to be “reset”
They said to try the adjustable rings when I get it back

scope B the parallax needed fixed which they did and it’s getting adjustable rings as well




So in conclusion I’m going to take y’all’s advice! Thank You!
 
Windage adjustable rings will get the scope pointed in the right direction. But the only reason to use them is if the mounting holes on the rifle aren't drilled correctly. I'm not a fan of those rings.

They were an acceptable alternative 60-70 years ago when many rifles did not come drilled for scope mounts from the factory. At the time it was not uncommon for a gunsmith to not get things perfectly straight when drilling them. Even many early rifles drilled at the factory were not straight. Windage adjustable mounts corrected the error. I wouldn't be happy with a current production rifle that needed them.

If you use them there is a process to doing it correctly.

Since the front ring twists into place it is easy to not have both rings perfectly aligned. If not it puts stress on the scope tube. You need a set of tools to get the rings aligned. It might be best to get a gunsmith to mount it since he probably has the tools instead of buying them.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2130187492?pid=187492

Next you need to center the crosshairs by moving the adjustment knob all the way to one side or the other. Then move it all the way in the other direction counting clicks as you go. If it takes 150 clicks, then you go back in the 1st direction 75 clicks. Or 1/2 of whatever. This gets the reticle centered left to right.

To get the windage zeroed use the screws on the mounts instead of the adjustment knobs on the scope. At least to get it pretty close. After you get the mounts locked down use the scopes adjustments to fine tune your zero.
 
If you purchase the kit recommended by jmr40 there’s a better way to use the alignment bars with the pointed ends IMO. Turn them around so that the round ends are facing each other. It’s easier that way to see if they are aligned or misaligned than if you use the pointed ends.

I was told to do it that way by someone and I do believe it works better.

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I was at the range one day and started talking to a guy who was having problems with sighting in his scope. He bought the rifle and scope at Scheels and they did their "professional" mounting and laser sighting there. When he couldn't get it sighted in - he was having problems similar to those described by the OP - he took it back and they did it again. And again. And again. I asked him if I could look at his scope. I held up his rifle and looked through his scope for five seconds and then told him "your reticle is canted about 15 degrees to the left". Having had it "professionally" or "expertly" mounted by someone is no guarantee. I think just doing it yourself is the only way to go.
 
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I was at the range one day and started talking to a guy who was having problems with sighting in his scope. He bought the rifle and scope at Scheels and they did their "professional" mounting and laser sighting there. When he couldn't get it sighted in - he was having problems similar to those described by the OP - he took it back and they did it again. And again. And again. I asked him if I could look at his scope. I held up his rifle and looked through his scope for five seconds and then told him "your reticle is canted about 15 degrees to the left". Having had it "professionally" or "expertly" mounted by someone is no guarantee. I think just doing it yourself is the only way to go.


Excellent point I do agree with you to a certain degree the gentleman who did mine I trust wholeheartedly and I doubt it’s a fault of his I think the holes are drilled off center in the rifle tbh
 
Having had it "professionally" or "expertly" mounted by someone is no guarantee.

Those terms are not necessarily synonymous. One can be paid to perform tasks (a professional) they don’t understand much less be an expert at. Others can become Masters at activities as a pastime.
 
Those terms are not necessarily synonymous. One can be paid to perform tasks (a professional) they don’t understand much less be an expert at. Others can become Masters at activities as a pastime.
I would define "professional" differently (having been considered one in my past career), but nevertheless, a good point well-taken.
 
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