help id S&W 38 revolver
- Thread starter clstw1
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First of all welcome to the forum.
Without more details, your gun is probably a .38 M&P shipped between 1948 and 1951
Guns made previous to 1957 do not have a Model Designation. Odds are it is a "pre Model 10" of some flavor
Unless it says Model ** on the frame under the cylinder yoke, the numbers are merely assembly numbers and mean nothing.
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If you can give us more details or a picture, we can narrow things down a bit.
No, you shouldn't shoot +P ammo in it.
Without more details, your gun is probably a .38 M&P shipped between 1948 and 1951
Guns made previous to 1957 do not have a Model Designation. Odds are it is a "pre Model 10" of some flavor
Unless it says Model ** on the frame under the cylinder yoke, the numbers are merely assembly numbers and mean nothing.
.
If you can give us more details or a picture, we can narrow things down a bit.
No, you shouldn't shoot +P ammo in it.
C12342 would be mid-1948 and an M&P (Military & Police) model. Nickel was not a common factory finishes at that time so the odds are it's been refinished.
I do politely disagree about the +p prohibition. Modern .38 Spec. limits are about 12% below what they were at the time that gun was made. A +p bump of up to 10% still won't equal the maximum that old loads would/could do. A post WWII gun with better quality hardened steel is not as fragile as a WWI, pre-hardened era gun. These are well made, accurate, and fun to shoot.
I do politely disagree about the +p prohibition. Modern .38 Spec. limits are about 12% below what they were at the time that gun was made. A +p bump of up to 10% still won't equal the maximum that old loads would/could do. A post WWII gun with better quality hardened steel is not as fragile as a WWI, pre-hardened era gun. These are well made, accurate, and fun to shoot.
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