Starter52
Member
Don't be too critical of your gun. After 200 rounds of .22 ammo I'd expect any revolver to start fouling up.
Help identifying my Smith 22
- Thread starter skidder
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jad0110
Member
Yes.
Starter has a good point. I usually have to wipe the cylinder face of my .22 revolvers every 200 to 400 rounds. However...
First, make sure the ejector rod isn't loose. On S&Ws made prior to late '59, the ejector rod had a right hand thread, which tended to come unscrewed with the counter clockwise rotation of the cylinder. My K-22 17-0 (made in early '59) tends to do this now and then. Just retighten, no biggie.
If not that, clean the cylinder face and forcing cone real good with a quality lead remover. Something better than Hoppes, which is fine as an all around cleaner but it just doesn't cut it for thick lead deposits that may have been getting baked on since the Truman administration.
Once clean, check the barrel to f/c gap with feeler gages, if you have them. If the gap is under .002, that might explain your troubles. Honestly though, unless you are ever going to rely on this K-22 for protection, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just wipe the cylinder face with a rag every 50 to 100 rounds, that may do the trick.
Thanks jad0110, the ejector is tight.
No gap at all. It does have some endshake and after cleaning the cylinder you can see the shiny metal where the two have been rubbing together. Is there a way to eliminate the endshake to pull the cylinder away from the cone? It looks like its barely touching the cone. I can move it back and retain the correct gap until I push the cylinder towards the cone again.
No gap at all. It does have some endshake and after cleaning the cylinder you can see the shiny metal where the two have been rubbing together. Is there a way to eliminate the endshake to pull the cylinder away from the cone? It looks like its barely touching the cone. I can move it back and retain the correct gap until I push the cylinder towards the cone again.
oldfool
Member
"shot fine till about 200 rounds. The cylinder started rubbing on the forcing cone making it hard to turn.... could that be that spacer ring that slides over the ejector?"
Do not jump to conclusions re: 're-shimming' to correct a cylinder gap. That would be a rare requirement on a tight gun, and should not be done at all, unless done by 'factory', or an exceptionally good revolver smith; it's a "don't try this at home" thing. Do be sure the forcing cone face is truly clean. Do NOT put a file on it. Always be wary of advice to just grab a file, unless it maybe comes from OldFuff or rcmodel.
Also, unlikely, but double check anyway, that there is no hardened old gunk under top strap of frame, at forcing cone, that could drag on front outer front edge of cylinder; it doesn't hurt to look twice at that, be sure. Old old gunk don't wipe off like fresh gunk do. Had that happen once on a k-48 1st range trip, to my embarrassment, easier to overlook than it sounds like. Be sure elector rod is as well lubed as all the other you cleaned & lubed, of course. That one has lain the in box a long long time unfired, is my guess.
"Starter has a good point. I usually have to wipe the cylinder face of my .22 revolvers every 200 to 400 rounds"
true, not quite as common as all that in my experience, not in 200 rounds, but not uncommon either at 400-500 rounds, depends on how 'dirty' the ammo is.
"No gap at all. It does have some endshake
Is there a way to eliminate the endshake
I can move it back and retain the correct gap"
Text descriptions can be confusing. "No gap at all' is pert-near an oxymoron, and you said it does have endshake. The 'look for daylight' test for b/c gap can be deceiving unless you hold the gun up to light just very very right. We need to know if you rally have checked both b/c gap and endshake with feeler gauges to offer any meaningful comments, beyond what has been said.
I can tell a tight gap from a loose gap by 'daylight test' alone, buy mine eyes ain't feeler gauges, for that there is no substitute
Shooting the gun -
are you shooting in SA mode only ?
if not, how is that DA trigger ?
Near-zero drag on cylinder face due to residue on face ought be overtly obvious just by feel, it's a "braking" effect on cylinder, somewhat akin to turning a gearbox 'backwards' with your hand on the output vs the input shaft
Extreme little drag is real plainly felt in DA trigger pull, not quite so very obvious in SA cocking, not as quickly obvious.
FWIW
I own two k-17s, both smooth as silk and very very accurate
one of them (with TT/TH) has a real snug b/c, 0.002 'at most'
shoots like a DA dream, but face will foul after 60-72 rounds
will then begin to drag... and it is real obvious by feel beyond that round count
but, I just wipe off the face with CLP soaked patch every 5-6 dozen (no big effort, no big deal), and she is a joy to shoot all day long.
Like yourself, I was worried about mine, 1st ever range date with her, when cylinder started to drag like that. I most often shoot a brick a trip, leastway a mini-brick. A bit of inspection, a good cleaning, and a set of feeler gauges set my mind at ease, no problemo.
My other (don't recall precisely), has a b/c gap of around 0.0045 to 0.005, and will shoot a brick without any such drag issues.
I mostly suspect you have one like my TT/TH example.
If so, just think of it as "extra good', so long as it shoots extremely accurate.
aka "don't fix it, if it ain't broke !"
No matter how good your hands, you will need at least a sandbag to see how accurate.
Good luck
(let us know what tale those feeler gauges tell)
hope none of that sounds presumptuous, or overtly obvious, but dunno your prior experience level with wheelies
(and you are right, of course, there should be NO b/c contact when clean)
Do not jump to conclusions re: 're-shimming' to correct a cylinder gap. That would be a rare requirement on a tight gun, and should not be done at all, unless done by 'factory', or an exceptionally good revolver smith; it's a "don't try this at home" thing. Do be sure the forcing cone face is truly clean. Do NOT put a file on it. Always be wary of advice to just grab a file, unless it maybe comes from OldFuff or rcmodel.
Also, unlikely, but double check anyway, that there is no hardened old gunk under top strap of frame, at forcing cone, that could drag on front outer front edge of cylinder; it doesn't hurt to look twice at that, be sure. Old old gunk don't wipe off like fresh gunk do. Had that happen once on a k-48 1st range trip, to my embarrassment, easier to overlook than it sounds like. Be sure elector rod is as well lubed as all the other you cleaned & lubed, of course. That one has lain the in box a long long time unfired, is my guess.
"Starter has a good point. I usually have to wipe the cylinder face of my .22 revolvers every 200 to 400 rounds"
true, not quite as common as all that in my experience, not in 200 rounds, but not uncommon either at 400-500 rounds, depends on how 'dirty' the ammo is.
"No gap at all. It does have some endshake
Is there a way to eliminate the endshake
I can move it back and retain the correct gap"
Text descriptions can be confusing. "No gap at all' is pert-near an oxymoron, and you said it does have endshake. The 'look for daylight' test for b/c gap can be deceiving unless you hold the gun up to light just very very right. We need to know if you rally have checked both b/c gap and endshake with feeler gauges to offer any meaningful comments, beyond what has been said.
I can tell a tight gap from a loose gap by 'daylight test' alone, buy mine eyes ain't feeler gauges, for that there is no substitute
Shooting the gun -
are you shooting in SA mode only ?
if not, how is that DA trigger ?
Near-zero drag on cylinder face due to residue on face ought be overtly obvious just by feel, it's a "braking" effect on cylinder, somewhat akin to turning a gearbox 'backwards' with your hand on the output vs the input shaft
Extreme little drag is real plainly felt in DA trigger pull, not quite so very obvious in SA cocking, not as quickly obvious.
FWIW
I own two k-17s, both smooth as silk and very very accurate
one of them (with TT/TH) has a real snug b/c, 0.002 'at most'
shoots like a DA dream, but face will foul after 60-72 rounds
will then begin to drag... and it is real obvious by feel beyond that round count
but, I just wipe off the face with CLP soaked patch every 5-6 dozen (no big effort, no big deal), and she is a joy to shoot all day long.
Like yourself, I was worried about mine, 1st ever range date with her, when cylinder started to drag like that. I most often shoot a brick a trip, leastway a mini-brick. A bit of inspection, a good cleaning, and a set of feeler gauges set my mind at ease, no problemo.
My other (don't recall precisely), has a b/c gap of around 0.0045 to 0.005, and will shoot a brick without any such drag issues.
I mostly suspect you have one like my TT/TH example.
If so, just think of it as "extra good', so long as it shoots extremely accurate.
aka "don't fix it, if it ain't broke !"
No matter how good your hands, you will need at least a sandbag to see how accurate.
Good luck
(let us know what tale those feeler gauges tell)
hope none of that sounds presumptuous, or overtly obvious, but dunno your prior experience level with wheelies
(and you are right, of course, there should be NO b/c contact when clean)
Last edited:
oldfool
Member
PS
shucks, if none of that works, I will give you a 10% instant profit on that gun, no questions asked
( if G don't beat me to it)
shucks, if none of that works, I will give you a 10% instant profit on that gun, no questions asked
( if G don't beat me to it)
oldfool-- Thanks a bunch, but it sounds like you have some trust issues. I understand, I'm an IT manager and if I had penny for every "detail" left out, I'd be a millionaire.
My smallest gauge goes to .0015 and hits like brick even after a good cleaning. If I pull the cylinder back, and let it rest, It will stay at .005 until I rotate it again. I shook the crane arm and is tight. So it appears the play is in the cylinder.
I saw this video on you-tube from midway http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmYzAVgDBkY and he shows how to insert a bushing for endshake.
I'm pretty good at fixing stuff, but I will make a call to see what it costs. We have the best gunsmiths in the state right here in our town, but if they want my first born, forget it. I trust my tinkering abilities more than I trust a lot of "professionals", but this gun is not your average "cheapy chugger" and Smiths are a little unfamiliar (though I did dismantle the guts, under the sideplate for initial cleaning, with no "special tools", but that was also 3 hours of my life I will never have back).
Thanks again, and if I take it to a gunsmith to get it fixed your cost just went from 10% to 60%. That sounds like a fair markup for a gun repaired "correctly".
I understand, I'm an IT manager and if I had penny for every "detail" left out, I'd be a millionaire. My smallest gauge goes to .0015 and hits like brick even after a good cleaning. If I pull the cylinder back, and let it rest, It will stay at .005 until I rotate it again. I shook the crane arm and is tight. So it appears the play is in the cylinder.
I saw this video on you-tube from midway http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmYzAVgDBkY and he shows how to insert a bushing for endshake.
I'm pretty good at fixing stuff, but I will make a call to see what it costs. We have the best gunsmiths in the state right here in our town, but if they want my first born, forget it. I trust my tinkering abilities more than I trust a lot of "professionals", but this gun is not your average "cheapy chugger" and Smiths are a little unfamiliar (though I did dismantle the guts, under the sideplate for initial cleaning, with no "special tools", but that was also 3 hours of my life I will never have back).
Thanks again, and if I take it to a gunsmith to get it fixed your cost just went from 10% to 60%. That sounds like a fair markup for a gun repaired "correctly".
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jad0110
Member
Well, even if it costs you $100 to get it fixed, you still got a fantastic deal. 5 screw K-22s go for $600 and up normally.
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