Help identifying S&W 38 Special

[Jub]

Can anyone help me find out more about my late grandfather-in-law's Smith & Wesson?

It is a 6 shot, nickel plated revolver with pearl grips, and has a worn S&W logo on the right side. There are a number of patent markings on the top of the barrel. Fixed sight, 6 inch barrel (?).

On the left side, in front of the cylinder, is the marking "38 Special S&W US Service CTG's".

The serial number appears in three places that I found - bottom of the butt, the cylinder and under the barrel, and is in the 817xx series.

I would be grateful for anything you can tell me.
Is this a Model 10? Year? I figure I should be careful about what, if any, type of ammunition I should use with it.
Thanks in advance,
Jub

 

[BullfrogKen]

Pictures are going to be a lot more helpful. This sounds like a lot of .38 Specials S&W made over the years.


When you open the cylinder, are there any other numbers stamped on the frame besides the S/N?

 

[Jub]

Thanks for the quick reply

I don't have it with me, and can't remember if there were any other markings on, or around, the cylinder. Will try and get some pictures.
Jub

 

[ugaarguy]

Jub, based strictly upon three identifying characteristics - serial number, ".38 S&W Special CTG & U.S. Service CTG" stampings, and the S&W monogram being located on the right side - I believe it's a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 1st Change or 2nd Change. The S&W monogram, low serial number without letter prefix, and inclusion of "& U.S. Service CTG" marking were clear indicators that this is an older gun. After referencing SCSW 3rd Ed. the serial number fall is into the range for M&P 1905 1st and 2nd change revolvers. Further the "& U.S. Service CTG" was dropped from the barrel markings on the 1905 3rd change. M&P Model of 1905 1st & 2nd change revolvers have an overlapping serial number range are known to have been produced from 1906 to 1909.

 

[RON in PA]

The only ammo I would shoot in this revolver, assuming it was in good condition would be 148 grain target wadcutters or standard velocity 158 grain lead loads.

 

[Old Fuff]

I agree with Ron. This revolver was made well before they started heat-treating cylinders. If the pearl stocks have a gold colored S&W trademark inserted at the top that would mean factory-original pearl, and somewhat increase the value of the revolver. If not, carefully (very carefully) remove the stocks and see if they are serial numbered to the frame with pencil. This again would be an indicator they came from S&W and weren't an aftermarket addition.

 

[Jub]

Thanks!

Gents,
Thanks for these great replies.
Sounds like this may have been a revolver that my grandfather-in-law inherited from HIS Dad!
I don't remember any markings on the stocks, but I guess they may have just been worn out. The monogram on the right side of the frame is very faded, so I guess this has been a much cherished and used firearm.

I will see if I can find anything interesting under the stocks when I next get my hands on it.

Any advice on books or online material on proper care and maintenance of a senior revolver like this?
Regards,
Jub

 

[ugaarguy]

Any advice on books or online material on proper care and maintenance of a senior revolver like this?

If you shoot it stay away from aggressive modern solvents as many of them will eat the nickel away. You'll also need to be careful to keep solvents away from the pearl grips. If you keep it as an heirloom just a drop or two of Hoppe's GUN OIL - NOT HOPPE'S SOLVENT - or any other common gun oil on a rag to lightly wipe down the nickel should do well. Be very careful if you remove the pearl grips since they can break somewhat easily.

As far as books, The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, now in its 3rd Edition, by Supica & Nahas is one of the best, and most referenced books amongst S&W aficionados.

 

[XavierBreath]

817XX = Model of 1905, first change. Built between 1906 and 1909 according to SCS&W. This is the great granddaddy of the Model 10.

No ammonia based cleaners.

 

[Old Fuff]

Hoppe's works fine for it's intended purpose - which is to remove copper and nickel deposits in a gun's bore. But for this reason never use it to wipe down a nickel plated firearm - or anything else that nickeled. This is especially true with older or antique guns that were nickel plated without a chrome overlayer.

A mild polish, such as FLITZ should be used, followed by a coat of wax, such as Johnson's Paste Wax. Unlike bore solvents or CLP, wax will not attack or degrade nickel finishes - old or new.

 

[Pistol Toter]

Hoppe's works fine for it's intended purpose - which is to remove copper and nickel deposits in a gun's bore. But for this reason never use it to wipe down a nickel plated firearm - or anything else that nickeled. This is especially true with older or antique guns that were nickel plated without a chrome overlayer.

A mild polish, such as FLITZ should be used, followed by a coat of wax, such as Johnson's Paste Wax. Unlike bore solvents or CLP, wax will not attack or degrade nickel finishes - old or new.

+1 Use not Hoppes on a nickel finish!!!:banghead:

 

[ugaarguy]

Calm down - I was referring to Hoppe's gun oil not their bore solvent. You folks know they market both bore solvent & gun oil (and a host of other gun care products) under the Hoppe's brand name right? I've edited the above for clarity so chill with the head banging.

 

[ugaarguy]

817XX = Model of 1905, first change. Built between 1906 and 1909 according to SCS&W. This is the great granddaddy of the Model 10.

Xavier SCSW 3rd lists both the first & second change as being made from c. 1906 - 1909 with an overlapping serial number range from 73251 - 146899. Is there a definite serial number cutoff between the 1st and 2nd change found elsewhere?