I am new to this site and need help identifying a revolver I received from my grandfather. It has 38 S&W Special CTG on the barrel. Serial number on the butt of C187212. It appears to be either nickel or stainless I cant tell the difference. It has fixed sights. The only other markings I can find on the gun other than the serial numbers is 25 9 31 on the frame when the revolver wheel is open. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Trying to indentify 38 S&W Special CTG
- Thread starter gojunior
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Radagast
Member
gojunior:
You have a .38 Miltary & Police revolver manufactured between 1948 & 1951. In 1957 the .38 Miltary & Police became the model 10 and with some design changes continues in production today. The finish would be nickel, unless it was redone in recent years, in which case it could be hard chrome. Stainless steel guns didn't appear for another decade.
The numbers under the cylinder yoke are assembly numbers, used to track parts in the factory. They are irrelevant once the gun is completed. Only the serial number has any legal meaning and is the only number that is tracked.
Value is not high, as several million Military & Police revolvers were manufactured. In very good to excellent condition it may be worth $300 to $350.
Because there have been several design changes over the years not all modern parts will fit. If you ever need spare parts try www.gunpartscorp.com Numrich Arms are the junkyard/wreckers for the gun industry.
Your gun should be safe to shoot with any standard pressure or PlusP rated .38 special ammunition. Avoid any ammunition marked +P+ as there is no industry pressure standard for such rounds and you may be looking at unsafe pressures.
There is a how to check out a revolver thread stickied at the top of this sub forum. If your gun passes the tests then it will be safe to shoot.
Welcome to the forum, I hope you enjoy the experience.
You have a .38 Miltary & Police revolver manufactured between 1948 & 1951. In 1957 the .38 Miltary & Police became the model 10 and with some design changes continues in production today. The finish would be nickel, unless it was redone in recent years, in which case it could be hard chrome. Stainless steel guns didn't appear for another decade.
The numbers under the cylinder yoke are assembly numbers, used to track parts in the factory. They are irrelevant once the gun is completed. Only the serial number has any legal meaning and is the only number that is tracked.
Value is not high, as several million Military & Police revolvers were manufactured. In very good to excellent condition it may be worth $300 to $350.
Because there have been several design changes over the years not all modern parts will fit. If you ever need spare parts try www.gunpartscorp.com Numrich Arms are the junkyard/wreckers for the gun industry.
Your gun should be safe to shoot with any standard pressure or PlusP rated .38 special ammunition. Avoid any ammunition marked +P+ as there is no industry pressure standard for such rounds and you may be looking at unsafe pressures.
There is a how to check out a revolver thread stickied at the top of this sub forum. If your gun passes the tests then it will be safe to shoot.
Welcome to the forum, I hope you enjoy the experience.
What does the CTG on the barrel stand for? Does it have any signifigance? It also has replacement grips on the gun. They are either bone or plastic I cant really tell. Would this lower the value of the gun since it is not factory?
DickM
Member
It's just an abbreviation for the word "cartridge."
Probably, but only to a collector, and as Radagast mentioned there were so many .38 M&Ps made that yours would just about have to be mint in the box to have collectible value. If you wanted to restore it to its original appearance, I believe the correct grips would be walnut, with a raised diamond around the screw, rounded tops, and a silver S&W medallion. Used grips are commonly available over at the S&W Forum or on eBay and I don't believe the cost would be prohibitive.
The Bushmaster
Member
Personally I would avoid +P ammunition too. Just use standard .38 Special ammunition.
Radagast
Member
The correct grips are Magna grips with an unchekered diamond around thr grip screws and a S&W medallion at the top, the round top grips are from WWII and earlier, although a few may have left the factory after the war.
It's true that S&W doesn't recommend use of PlusP ammo in pre 1957 guns, however member SaxonPig has posted pics of his gun from the same era that has had 1200 round of PlusP ammo through it with zero ill effects. It's commonly held (altjhough I haven't seen it documented) that modern PlusP ammo runs at the same velocity and pressure as the original factory loads, with current loads being downloaded slightly to keep lawyers happy.
It's true that S&W doesn't recommend use of PlusP ammo in pre 1957 guns, however member SaxonPig has posted pics of his gun from the same era that has had 1200 round of PlusP ammo through it with zero ill effects. It's commonly held (altjhough I haven't seen it documented) that modern PlusP ammo runs at the same velocity and pressure as the original factory loads, with current loads being downloaded slightly to keep lawyers happy.
Maj Dad
Member
Here's your pistol's older brother, born ca. 1946, with the original grips (you can find them on Gunbroker, too). Notice the right grip S&W medallion is upside down - someone refinished the grips & was not too attentive when the medallion was replaced. Metal is probably 95% or better, and chambers & bore are near perfect. Beautiful works of art nonetheless, & can handle current +P with aplomb. Fire at will... 
Radagast
Member
Maj_Dad:
No pic.
No pic.
Radagast
Member
Jumped the gun. Pics are now showing. Very pretty.
Hondo 60
Member
gojunior:
A picture would be VERY helpful.
A picture would be VERY helpful.
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