Help I'm getting rust
- Thread starter Black92LX
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Hard cases with foam will tend to "draw" whatever you wiped it down with--away.
IF you have to put in a case for security reasons (locked and out of inquiring little ones curiosity) use a "Sack Up" -silicone impregnated sleeve first, Then put into case. You still should check often.
Otherwise, wipe down and put in a safe, or safe place...nekkid.
IF you have to put in a case for security reasons (locked and out of inquiring little ones curiosity) use a "Sack Up" -silicone impregnated sleeve first, Then put into case. You still should check often.
Otherwise, wipe down and put in a safe, or safe place...nekkid.
C.R.Sam
Moderator Emeritus
R.I.G.
Sam
Sam
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Casing a shotgun over long periods of time in not recommended. Besides having the lube drawn off where the lining contacts the weapon, some cases act like sponges, and ambient moisture wicks onto the metal.
If you've rust showing on the outside, chances are there's more hidden damage.
Places oft ignored, regretfully, on 870s are inside the mag tube, inside the receiver, and in the forend assembly between the wood and metal. The vents under the rib are also prone to corrosion.
Complete disassembly and deep cleaning is a good idea.
Wiping on a heavy coat of oil, CLP or SLIP, letting it sit for a few minutes and wiping off the excess is a good way to protect the metal.
If you've rust showing on the outside, chances are there's more hidden damage.
Places oft ignored, regretfully, on 870s are inside the mag tube, inside the receiver, and in the forend assembly between the wood and metal. The vents under the rib are also prone to corrosion.
Complete disassembly and deep cleaning is a good idea.
Wiping on a heavy coat of oil, CLP or SLIP, letting it sit for a few minutes and wiping off the excess is a good way to protect the metal.
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The Express finish is PRONE to exactly what you are seeing. If the rust gets bad it WILL spread and you will not be able to keep it at bay easily. The roughness of the surface will hold moisture, and also provides a TON of surface area for rust to start on. The finish does not have the depth to hold much oil though, and that is why it rusts easily. If the gun is in storage for an extended period the RIG grease Sam mentioned is probably your best option. If it is an occasional use gun the CLP Dave mentioned is a good alternative although I would not wipe off the excess, I would leave as much as the finish will hold.
If you want to permanently fix the problem you can paint the gun, the finish holds paint very well. The paint can be touched up easily for a couple dollars for as long as you own the gun too. Camo 870 anyone?
You can also parkerize the gun, either at home or pay someone to do it. The cost of parkerizing should be less than $50 if you pay someone to do it. A good park job will hold TONS more oil to prevent rust. Parkerizing is also quite attractive when done well.
If you want to permanently fix the problem you can paint the gun, the finish holds paint very well. The paint can be touched up easily for a couple dollars for as long as you own the gun too. Camo 870 anyone?
You can also parkerize the gun, either at home or pay someone to do it. The cost of parkerizing should be less than $50 if you pay someone to do it. A good park job will hold TONS more oil to prevent rust. Parkerizing is also quite attractive when done well.
I have an 870 Wingmaster that's parkerized and it looks great. Not a bit of rust anywhere. Try the paint first, it comes in many colors. If you don't like it, sand blast the finish and parkerize (manganese phosphate). http://www.shootersolutions.com/parkerizing.html
Hmmm.
I was consdering starting to put rifles and shotguns into soft gun cases inside my gunsafe. Its getting crowded in there, and it while the cases would only make each long gun bulkier, at least you could stack 'em without scratching and dinging them up. Would you say this is a no-go?
I have dessicant inside of the safe and it keeps it pretty dry...
Mike
I was consdering starting to put rifles and shotguns into soft gun cases inside my gunsafe. Its getting crowded in there, and it while the cases would only make each long gun bulkier, at least you could stack 'em without scratching and dinging them up. Would you say this is a no-go?
I have dessicant inside of the safe and it keeps it pretty dry...
Mike
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Coronach, it depends on the climate and other whtings, but in large areas of the US, putting cased weapons away is not the best idea. None kept cased here, except the TB, a constant use arm. And there's a silicone cloth in my shooting kit, and I may start carrying the Boresnake also.
Dissicants and dehumidifiers help, but there's still a chance of trouble.Wool or sheepskin with the fleece on seems the worst offender.
Some Eastern Shore Guides I know melt wax into the Express surface with blowdryers.
The present barrel on the 870 I use for deer and HD backup has an Ezpress finish, and has seen hard service. No rust, using everything from SLIP and CLP to 30 weight.
Dissicants and dehumidifiers help, but there's still a chance of trouble.Wool or sheepskin with the fleece on seems the worst offender.
Some Eastern Shore Guides I know melt wax into the Express surface with blowdryers.
The present barrel on the 870 I use for deer and HD backup has an Ezpress finish, and has seen hard service. No rust, using everything from SLIP and CLP to 30 weight.
GunSocks and express finishes
I use the 'Remington' brand gunsocks from wallyworld for 5 bucks... keeps the nicks down in the safe... and the nylon doesn't seem to have the issues of the wool/foam/etc.
I like RemOil, and others, not CLP for me on the 'regulars' (because of the 'creep' effect)... but I shoot/handle them a lot. The shotgun comes out, the oily rag goes on. Then the gunsock on, and back in the safe. Again, not long-term storage - week at most.
I've also had success with Birchwood Casey Sheath, but it's a mess if you're handling it a lot.
Parkerizing is heads above the 'express' finish, and eventually I'll have 'em all parked. I may try the painting, just for grins. Sounds like fun!
All the best,
I use the 'Remington' brand gunsocks from wallyworld for 5 bucks... keeps the nicks down in the safe... and the nylon doesn't seem to have the issues of the wool/foam/etc.
I like RemOil, and others, not CLP for me on the 'regulars' (because of the 'creep' effect)... but I shoot/handle them a lot. The shotgun comes out, the oily rag goes on. Then the gunsock on, and back in the safe. Again, not long-term storage - week at most.
I've also had success with Birchwood Casey Sheath, but it's a mess if you're handling it a lot.
Parkerizing is heads above the 'express' finish, and eventually I'll have 'em all parked. I may try the painting, just for grins. Sounds like fun!
All the best,
More Rust
How about the inside of 870 mag tubes? I just stripped my 870TB and when the mag spring came out it was rust from end to end. The inner surface of the mag tube is also rusted, almost like the gun had **never** been taken down, really sad.
My thoughts are to take a bronze bore brush to the mag tube and then swab it with a patch of phosphoric acid, maybe two; that should stabilize the rust. Then I'll send down a patch covered in RIG, followed by a the RIG'd follower and a new RIG'd spring. Since this will be strictly used for Trap, the mag will rarely if ever get used and this treatment should be good for quite a while.
Comments??
BTW, the outside and inside of the receiver is very clean. Apparently the mag tube was not on the previous owner's radar screen/to do list.
How about the inside of 870 mag tubes? I just stripped my 870TB and when the mag spring came out it was rust from end to end. The inner surface of the mag tube is also rusted, almost like the gun had **never** been taken down, really sad.
My thoughts are to take a bronze bore brush to the mag tube and then swab it with a patch of phosphoric acid, maybe two; that should stabilize the rust. Then I'll send down a patch covered in RIG, followed by a the RIG'd follower and a new RIG'd spring. Since this will be strictly used for Trap, the mag will rarely if ever get used and this treatment should be good for quite a while.
Comments??
BTW, the outside and inside of the receiver is very clean. Apparently the mag tube was not on the previous owner's radar screen/to do list.
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Riverdog, that's a shame. This sounds like a good candidate for the 4/0 steel wool, dowel and drill method. A new mag spring's also needed.
Why somone would plunk down the money for a Baker barrel but ignore PM is one of life's little mysteries.
Why somone would plunk down the money for a Baker barrel but ignore PM is one of life's little mysteries.
The rust on the mag tube was primarily from the spring. The mag tube itself wasn't too bad. I cleaned it with a bore brush followed by a patch on the bore brush followed by a the same configuration with RIG on the patch. I used the standard length spring from my 870 with the Wilson extension and after covering that with RIG I reassembled; the rusted spring is not usable. I'll check it again closely next time I have it apart.
OT: On the topic of rust
a 1911 that needs some TLC can be found here. Apparently it was found in France following WWII. Anybody going to bid?
a 1911 that needs some TLC can be found here. Apparently it was found in France following WWII. Anybody going to bid?
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Thanks, Hski. I wonder what they call it in Poland...
Riverdog, glad you have an extra spring around. Keep an eye on that tube.
As for that old soldier from the fields of France, way past useful.
Riverdog, glad you have an extra spring around. Keep an eye on that tube.
As for that old soldier from the fields of France, way past useful.
Edward429451
member
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(Translation anyone?)
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