Help me build a reloading bench!

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EHCRain10

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Hey guys,
As I have said before I plan on getting into reloading in the near future and as such I have some questions about a reloading bench.

What would be the minimum surface area for the top of the bench? (would a 4ftx2ft table top be enough?)
What material should I use for the top itself? (is MDF strong enough or should I use plywood, maybe even solid planks if needed)

Right now I am thinking about something about 30inches tall with a 48in x 24in top made of 3/4inch MDF with a full shelf below for storage

I know that the bench should be stable and somewhat heavy to prevent it from moving during the press strokes so I would use 4x4 posts as the legs to add weight and the bottom shelf would probably be made from 2x8 solid planks to add weight at the bottom of the bench.

Thanks for all the help and advice!
 
You want to use a material that won't flex when you pull the handle. I used 3/4" plywood and have 2x4 supports under the plywood and 2x6 around the outside. A 2' x 4' bench should be fine as long as you have a place to store everything else you aren't using. You want to make the bench so when you pull the handle on the press the bench doesn't move. I have a work bench in my garage that I had to use half of for reloading because of no other place to setup. I would also suggest setting up your bench so you can reload standing up, then if you want to sit down a cheap bar stool works perfect. If you build it low you can never load standing up. Here is my ( messy ) bench. I had to remove the wood vice to make room for the press.
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That was a couple of years ago, it's a little more cluttered these days.
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Hope this helps.
Rusty
 
My bence is 5 ft wide and its plenty big enough. If I had made it larger it would just become a holding area for the stuff not being used. With it being this size I am forced to keep it clean,(within reason of course) something I would not do if I had plenty of room to spread stuff out.

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I'm in the process of building basically the same thing you describe. I selected 3/4" birch plywood (4'x2' like you were thinking) for the top, thinking it would be stronger and stiffer than MDF for about the same cost. I'm using 1/2" birch plywood for two shelves, some thin hardboard for a backing (so stuff doesn't roll off the backside), and 2x4's for legs. I have all the parts but it's not built yet. I'm also planning to finish everything with Watco oil to make it somewhat nicer, and easier to clean, than a basic unfinished bench.

I had been planning to do 30" height for reloading while sitting, but I'll have to rethink that based on Rusty's comments.

I also have an old desk and hutch that I'm using in addition to the bench. If that weren't the case, 2x4' with only two shelves would be somewhat sparse on storage area, I think.
 
I built a small bench from a Rockler router table steel leg set. They are heavy duty steel legs and rails, 20" x 26" top. I also got the heavy duty caster set with it, which makes the top about 34" off the floor. I use it while standing. I added two shelves underneath and store bullets, brass, dies, tools, etc. on it for ballast. I roll it out to use it, and roll it back into the laundry room when done. The bench top would be too small except for the fact that with the casters I have easy access to all four sides. The top is plywood, but the press is bolted through the steel frame rails. I have a small bench vise bolted to one corner too.

Andy
 
MDF is fine. I prefer melamine because you can spill stuff on it. I also like using countertops becuse of the backsplash. Just hook it to the wall and brace it around the press. You dont need 2x8's as a shelf. 2x4 framing is more than sufficient.

Here is what the frame on one of mine looked like.

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Minimum size for a loading bench? Well, one friend used to have an 18" x 24" piece of 3/4 ply with his press mounted on it. He clamped it in a Black and Decker "WORKMATE" and it worked too. But I prefer a lot more space than that,. I had to make three benches before I got it right for me. That was in 1970, still happily using it too!

First, the height: A bench top at 30 - 31 inches makes a good kitchen counter for smallish ladies but that's much too low for taller men. I built my last bench top right at belt buckle-height while standing, for me that's 39 inches. Even that wasn't quite high enough for proper mounting of my press for easy work. I had to block up the bases of my (4) press(es) about 2-3 more inches so I can fully depress the levers without having to bend over - at all - to save my poor, sore back! When I want to work seated I use a cheap (yard sale) bar stool, a comfortable high backed, padded and swiveling type that keeps my upper body in the same relationship to the bench.

For max utility, I’ll say build the top as long as you can. Mine is a full 8 feet and that's not quite enough at times. The top need not be more that 24 inches wide but, actually, I think 21" is plenty because that's about as far as I can easily reach across while loading. Wider tops tend to collect “stuff..”

I prefer a smooth, solid top. Doubled and glued (Liquid Nails construction adhesive) 3/4" ply, OSB or MDF is good but doubled 5/8" particle board is excellent. It's nice if the top overhangs the under framing a couple of inches at the front and ends so other things can be "C" clamped to the top later. (Like a fly tying vise!)

I put two full length shelves under my bench. The lower shelf is about 12 inches off the floor so I can rest me feet on it while seated! The upper shelf is about 16" wide, the lower shelf is as wide as the framing will allow. I store boxes of miscellaneous stuff ( tumbler media, shotgun wads, etc.) under the bottom shelf. Painting those lower shelves with a couple of coats of white sure makes for better viability when looking for stuff down there.

Legs are important but need not be massive. Simple 2x4 boards in compression are plenty strong.

If possible, anchor the back of the bench to wall studs and lag screw the front legs to the floor. Or, just weigh it down with lots of stuff - misc. brass, tools, bullets, casting lead, etc, - on those lower shelves.

If you cannot anchor the back to a wall and MUST make a free-standing bench, add a back and ends to the frame for rigidity. A simple covering of 1/4" ply is plenty to make the frame into a strong box that will still rack enough to accommodate a moderately un-even floor.

Understand that you will need a LOT of storage shelves for powders, bullets, primers, dies, load books, moulds, etc., and a “book case” will do nicely for much of it. Use 1x8 boards, making the shelves wider than 8" (actually, 7 ½") will make it easy to lose small items on the back of the shelves. Make it long enough to cover the full length of your bench and tall enough to nearly reach the ceiling. It can sit on the back of your bench top if you anchor it to the wall with screws or, better yet, mount it hard to the wall and keep the bench top clear.
Make sure one of those shelves is just about nose high and plan to sit your powder scale and trickler on it. That way it will be easy to read and use your scale without bending over. I think there would be fewer of the very expensive digital scales sold if more people had better placement for their balance beam scales!

Plan to place all of your hard-mounted presses/lubrisizer, etc, on the right half of your bench if possible. Right handers should keep at least 14" on the left side of the presses clear for loading blocks, etc. Keep the full left end of the bench clear for working on cases & a gun cleaning space.

Do plan to add a sturdy 4", or so, machinist type swivel vise (from Lowes or H'Depot) on the left front corner. That vise will be handy of itself but it also makes a great base for holding a case trimmer and a "Sight-Vise" IF they are mounted on a small piece of 3/4" ply with a firmly glued/screwed 1x2 strip under it for the vise to grip. I have both of those and also a small Harbor Freight (3") variable speed dual wheel grinder/buffer that also mounts in my vise. The grinder, sight vise and trimmer are all great to have at times but I really don't need them set up permanently.

I could have also mounted my powder measure on a block for the vise but I really like to have the measure firmly mounted near the middle of my bench, behind and just to the left of my main press. It’s out of the way there but still easy to reach, and it's just to the right of my scale and trickler.

As much as possible, use bulk “wall board” type screws, plus glue and bolts for assembly,. Over a period of time, nails tend to work loose under the strains of reloading.

Enamel the whole bench assembly white (or a really light color) if possible but at least protect the top with a minimum of 3 coats of Min-Wax Marine Poly. That good stuff is easy to find and is very resistant to water, oil and gun solvent spills.

Install AC outlets or power strips at the ends of the bench for your radio, battery chargers, heat gun, Dremel tool, drill, tumbler, soldering iron, electric engraver. Mount a paper towel holder close by and an air line for a blow gun to clean things is nice if you have a compressor

Suggest installing at least one 48" dual tube florescent shop light directly above the front edge of your bench, twice that much light would be better. You will want a lot of light and you will not want it to cast your own shadow across the work area.
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Before I retired I did a bit of wood working for a living so when it came time to build my bench I went with 3/4 in plywood. For the bench to buy a sheet of 3/4" exterior sheathing, it's cheap and tough enough. It will not be smooth (more later) as it will have voids and knot holes. It's made to sheath roofs and exterior walls. Rip it down the middle the long way, now you'll have 2 pieces about 24-in wide and 8 ft. long. Cut sheets to length, if you only have room for 4 ft. O.K., 5 ft. would be DeLux. So make your self two sheets the same length, 4 or 5 ft. glue and screw them together ( a tube of construction adhesive like Liquid Nails is cheap, you can buy a gun to apply or just cut the tube and spread it out) thin applications on both sheets works the best, line them up good and screw it together. The reason for the plywood: it will resist the racking force you put on the top when operating the press without the need for alot of extra bracing.

We need a smooth top. Buy a sheet of 1/4 in. (actually its 3/16) Tempered Hardboard, cut to fit the top and just screw it down enough to keep it flat. Because the hardboard is a very dark brown color I painted mine. A coat of good primer, two coats of color of your choice. The painted surface with be a bit soft and will tend to chip so I top coated with polyurethane 2-3 coats.



IHTH.


P.S. If you choose to go w/ MDF... cut it outside, it's very dusty and really bad for your lungs.


Tom
 
you can find a good looking reloading bench/plans on 2x4basics.com. I think anything that has good support - legs and top - will be sufficient. I've seen some real crappy looking benches that work just fine. My father in law has one made of 2x4s with a salvaged counter top and we've loaded thousands of rounds. Mine is made of angle iron and bolted to the 2x4s in my basement with a 3/4" top and it's not going anywhere. I't 5' wide and 3' deep and 4' tall. Plenty of room for everything. I was able to bolt my press to the top and into the iron top. :)
 
Lot of good suggestions being tossed at you. I bought a piece of countertop at Lowes and used construction adhesive and scews to glue and screw (from the bottom) the plywood to it. Good strength and I didn't have to mess with painting or finishing the top. I think I paid about $40 - $50 for the top. You can't see the plywood in the pics cause there is a lip on the countertop.

I forgot to mention that if you can use some of your scraps of wood to make cleets to fasten your countertop from the bottom. This way you have no screws in your top. Last pic shows the cleets.


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One nice ammenity that I have seen is a countertop that has been fabbed up with the presses, trimmers, etc. mounted on platforms that slide in and out of slots that are dovetailed into the counter top.
 
Here is a pic of mine the night I finished it. The press goes on the left side mounted to a board so I can change presses easily. The back has alot of space to store brass & moulds. The dies & bullets are in another cabinet, still haven't transfered the over yet.
 

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