GJgo
Member
Generally, yes, you need a headspace gauge. I'm not really being that picky here though. With a stripped SKS bolt & no carrier installed you can actually use a feeler gauge between the case head & the bolt face pretty easily. You can a) feel if the bolt locks up tight or loose, and b) feel if there's any gap between the bolt face & the case head.
So, my bolt locks up well, with just a couple thou play in its cradle. Next I tried this both with a live round (3 different types) and also fired brass (2 types) and in each case the bolt locked up tight, and I could not get my smallest .002" gauge between the bolt face & the case head. There was no movement of the round at all in any case so I'd say headspace is good to go.
Edit, had a thought here on why some of my fired brass shrunk at the shoulder, and maybe also why those primers popped. The test above tells me that my headspace isn't too loose. But, what if it is still too tight & the bolt isn't fully locking up? So I grabbed my feeler gauges again. With the stripped bolt (only) locked into battery I have a .008" gap between the barrel & the bolt rim. Next, with a live (Hornady) round chambered it had a .011" gap- aha! It would appear that my bolt face needs roughly .003" removed to allow the bolt to "fully" lock up. Seem reasonable? The "lock up" on the back of the bolt is an angled ramp, so it's sliding into battery, but not sliding 100% in it would seem.
So, my bolt locks up well, with just a couple thou play in its cradle. Next I tried this both with a live round (3 different types) and also fired brass (2 types) and in each case the bolt locked up tight, and I could not get my smallest .002" gauge between the bolt face & the case head. There was no movement of the round at all in any case so I'd say headspace is good to go.
Edit, had a thought here on why some of my fired brass shrunk at the shoulder, and maybe also why those primers popped. The test above tells me that my headspace isn't too loose. But, what if it is still too tight & the bolt isn't fully locking up? So I grabbed my feeler gauges again. With the stripped bolt (only) locked into battery I have a .008" gap between the barrel & the bolt rim. Next, with a live (Hornady) round chambered it had a .011" gap- aha! It would appear that my bolt face needs roughly .003" removed to allow the bolt to "fully" lock up. Seem reasonable? The "lock up" on the back of the bolt is an angled ramp, so it's sliding into battery, but not sliding 100% in it would seem.
Last edited: