Help myBersa Thunder (.380) trigger is broken

[Min]

I think this is the same gun as the Firestorm 95 which is what I have.

Anyway, the trigger won't reset at all. Feels like a spring is broken. Which part do I need to replace?

Thanks.

 

[P95Carry]

Horge? ..... calling Horge ........ advise required.

 

[otomik]

what happened to me once: Trigger wasn't resetting because of friction between the disconnector and soft rubber grip, oil and or losen the grip panel a bit if thats the problem.

That's not much of a solution to a small design flaw, I should add that i'm looking into getting some thin wood grips.

 

[horge]

Hi. (One of these days, I'll getcha Chris... )

Min,
For a minute there I thought the trigger was PHYSICALLY broken, as in, lying in two or more pieces due to normal use (Given how thick the metal is on that triger, THAT would have been one for the books).

Can you tell me how this is happening --what exactly do you mean by it feeling like a spring is broken? Did you recently disassemble the pistol -at least down to removing the slide AND the grip panel?

--------------

The trigger spring is pretty stout, and it's situation with one end wrapped around the trigger pivot and the other nested in the ILS groove is fairly secure, so it's not likely the trigger spring broke or was displaced.

Sometimes, serious gritting between the disconnector (trigger bar) and the frame can retard the rearward movement of the disconnector that 'resets' the trigger. Dunno --this would retard resetting, but won't necessarily yield a springless or broken-spring sensation when pulling

Improper seating of the magazine disconnect strap (it's bent top end has to rest ATOP a designated niche in the disconnector) can also retard proper movement of the disconnector --or worse, allow a reassembly where the disconnector doesn't quite engage the frame.

Anyway...
Field Strip, then Disassemble to where you remove the disconnector
Reference:Further Disassembly
so that you can check for grit. This will also allow you a fairly open view of the trigger well so you can check if the trigger spring is (as I suspect) still in place.

If ANY of the disassembly instructions aren't quite clear, let me know and I'll try to post some photos. If you can post photos of the pistol, with the grip panel and slide removed, and then again with the disconnector removed, so much the better.

Awaiting...

 

[horge]

Otomik,

Thanks for the insight on a wraparound-grip problem
I guess flexure/deformation in the rubber creates clearance issues.
Haven't had it happen with the hard-polymer factory grips that BERSA installs on the pistol.

 

[Min]

There is no tension on the trigger. It is flat against the grip.

 

[P95Carry]

(One of these days, I'll getcha Chris... )

I'm sure you will Horge ..

Min .. strikes me you are gonna have to do a take down .. and inspect. Either things are seized or, in fact a spring has let go. Check Horge's site re details.

 

[horge]

If the trigger is lying flat against the grip, then again, either the trigger spring has been dislodged or has broken (unlikely) --or there's some prety serious crudding forward of the trigger pivot (unlikely) or equally-serious gritting between the disconnector and the frame (or the grip, like otomik says)

Takedown, have a look-see.

 

[Cortland]

A slightly-modified Ruger P-series magazine catch spring makes a perfect replacement trigger return spring (I have heard getting getting replacement Bersa parts can be difficult without going through an "authorized repair center").

Take the grips off and remove the magazine catch. This will let you see if the trigger return spring is there or not.

 

[horge]

P-series mag-catch spring? Neat.


Removing the Thunder/Firestorm 380 disconnector (aka trigger transfer bar) lets you see enough of the hollow at the rear of the trigger, where the trigger spring is coiled about the trigger pin (or pivot). Taking out the magazine release does allow one more view.

The trigger spring itself has two ends, or legs.
One is nestled in a groove cut into the trigger itself, and the other in a groove cut into the ILS cylinder. If the latter of these legs get dislodged and deformed/broken (...somehow), it can effectively castrate the trigger spring.

The ILS-end leg of the spring can be inspected w/o need for any disassembly: just look at it from slightly behind and below the trigger. The same POV allows some inspection of the trigger-side of the spring, although as said, the disconnector (trigger transfer bar) needs to get evicted first.

There has been at least one case of someone fiddling with the ILS (with the provided key) while pulling the trigger, leading to a dislodging of the trigger spring-end. The fellow persisted in pulling hard on the trigger, not realizing he had left the ILS in SAFE (or locked position), and succeeded in
stripping metal from the ILS (where it catches a notch atop the trigger), deforming it into permanent lock AND rendering the trigger inoperable. I was surprised the trigger did not break first. This fellow worked for a gun shop that at the time had only started selling the BERSA Thunder 380, here in Manila. Yes, I said he worked for a gun shop.