Help pick accurate hunting rifle

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troy fairweather said:
Any word yet on when kimber is moving from Yonkers,

Manufacturing still hasn't moved to AL yet. They're assembling rifles in Troy but the parts are made elsewhere. Kimber hasn't made rifle barrels for a few years now. Bergara has been making most of them for the past seven years, and now Criterion is making a few too. The receivers are made in NY, and most MIM parts of which there are relatively few are being outsourced. The fiberglass Montana stocks were being made in Costa Rica but that operation has been shut down.
 
South Prairie Jim said:
Actually I have not, but I will say if a bullet was sensitive to cold weather I would choose a different bullet.

All bullets are sensitive to cold weather (temperature change) but a suitable twist rate can help dramatically. I only use copper bullets for hunting so a 1:10 twist barrel on a .308 Win overcomes some stability issues. Clearly you're happy with your 1:11 twist barrel, but it's not for me. There is no downside to a 1:10 for a .308 Win or .300 Win Mag and plenty of upside. Tikka probably settled on their 1:11 twist prior to the increase in popularity of long for caliber/weight copper bullets.

I might end up buying a Tikka in .308 Win and swapping the barrel out for a Proof with a 1:10 twist. Kind of depends on how happy I am with my two Proof barreled Kimber 84M project rifles in .308 Win. Both have 1:10 twists and will shoot the 175gr LRX into sub 0.5 moa groups at 30F.
 
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South Prairie Jim said:
If it’s not for you that’s fine I just think others might shy away over a possible non issue.

All we can do is present the data and let folks decide for themselves. With excellent resources from companies like Berger that offer free bullet stability apps it's not hard for us to figure out what works for our intended uses. I like the Barnes 175gr LRX .30 cal bullet, and given where I live and where I hunt I want a 1:10 twist barrel for any .308 Win rifle. By the way, I'm up at 3,200 feet elevation but the scenario below gets worse for the 1:11 barrel as the altitude decreases.

1:11 vs. 1:10 twist .308 Win barrel.

175gr_lrx_11twist.jpg

175gr_lrx_10twist.jpg
 
I don’t wish to seem argumentative or disrespectful but I don’t use calculators I let the target tell me what is stable, I’ve seen some very fine groups shot with both twist.

Again I can only comment on the Bullets I have personal experience with.
J
 
With this economy still being bad, should be some nice used rigs at your LGS.
Post deer season, prices should be decent.

Paid 535 bucks out the door for a Sako Forester in .243 win.
900 for a Ruger #1 w killer buttstock.

Everybody wants plastic and new.

Got a camo painted M77mkII Boat Paddle w decent scope for $550.

It shoots decent, have not experimented, w factory ammo and heavy factory trigger.
Have not shot the Sako yet. Damn it's nice.
Maybe next week.

But, you could be buying somebody else's lemon.
My well carried 760 in .35 rem..........not kidding, does 3 in an inch at 100. Bone stock pump w a 2-7X scope.
Had fair bit of copper in bore, shot good though. Seems to shoot even better after some scrubbing.

Carried a lot, dunno how much shot though. I doubt I wear it out.
Paid 500 for it bare rifle.
 
I don’t wish to seem argumentative or disrespectful but I don’t use calculators I let the target tell me what is stable, I’ve seen some very fine groups shot with both twist.

Again I can only comment on the Bullets I have personal experience with.
J
Until one goes out an shoots, the calcs are about as good an option as we got for deciding on stuff like twist rates.
And again its all personal preference as to what bullets you want to use, but if you say you want to shoot bullet X (or type X bullets) and the gun your looking at has a marginal or insufficient twist rate according to the calcs, then you can make a more educated decision whether other features make it worth the risk.

For me a 1-11 .308 would be fine, because the heaviest bullet id shoot would be a 165 tipped lead core.

A 1-11 .300wm might be a non-starter because id want to shoot vld type 215s-225s, but i might decide to risk it if I liked that particular gun, and depending on what I wanted it for.

Something like a .300PRC and Id demand a 1-8 or 9 to shoot the longest vld 30s. I wouldnt risk it with that chambering because theres no reason for me to use that big a case otherwise.

Environmental changes can also play a roll in deciding what your particular requirements are. I can go from sea level to 9k+ feet of elevation in about an 1.5hrs, and a temperature change of 60+ degrees.
Most of my distance shooting is done at the 9000ft level, most of my sight in and range work is done at 3000ish.
Thats easily enough change that a marginal stability bullet may shoot great one day (and at greater distance) and location, but shotgun pattern on another.
 
If i were you and wanted a deer rifle, I would get a Remington 700 or a Savage axis 2, use the extra money on a good scope, quality ammo and gear.

since i have both brands my 3rd option would be a Ruger American.
 
I just got a T/C compass in 6.5 creed. Ridiculously accurate for the price. Baseball sized 5 shot groups at 500!! Kygunco had them for $250 or so with shipping.

The only nit I can pick, is the light barrel which requires lots of time to cool down. But this is a virtue in a hunting rifle.
 
My Ruger American predator in 6.5 CM is one of the most accurate rifles I own. The only rifles that outshoot it are thousands of dollars more (M24 and Larue OBR). I paid $424 OTD for my RAR. The only downside to is is that it is ugly. But deer don't mind being shot with an ugly rifle.
 
Ugliest rifle I own...........two at the moment.

Steyr Prohunter .30-06
Ruger M77MKII "boat paddle" .308

Am keeping the Steyr. Its ugly cool. Unlike entry level rifles.

Pretty rifles? I have a Ruger #1 w good wood. It makes up for all the other synth stock rigs LOL
 
Not to take away from the Tikka, it was what I recommended to the OP given his requirements. But if I were you and you have the cash I would go with a new Win70 build, they are so sweet when done right.

I've been keeping my eye out for a used 270win to shoot out and then screw a 280AI barrel onto and maybe drop into a take off B&C stock.
 
I've been keeping my eye out for a used 270win to shoot out and then screw a 280AI barrel onto and maybe drop into a take off B&C stock.

Sounds like a sweet rifle, I think you would be very pleased with all of those choices above.
 
I agree. That doggone pre-'64 snobbery comes out a lot. I have a recent production M70 Featherweight that might be one of the best rifles I've ever owned. (I don't care where it was made)

It was hammer-forged by FN in SC, in their MIC plant.

...and then assembled by old world craftsman in Portugal.

:D




GR
 
LoonWulf said:
Most of my distance shooting is done at the 9000ft level, most of my sight in and range work is done at 3000ish.

@LoonWulf, thanks for the excellent post. At least your change is in the right direction ... it'd be a whole lot worse the other way.

My 6.5 PRC Proof barrels should be ready this week. They have a 1:7.5 twist even though the standard is 1:8. I like options from the get go.
 
Those 100s are really nice rifles that checks most of the boxes for me. What's the weight on these though? Can't seem to find that information on the website?
According to Black Market Arms LLC customer service, the weight is 6.72 lbs.
 
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