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help remove one piece YHM rails.

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Oct 3, 2005
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need help removing the yankee hill one piece quad rails from my ar15.
what is the easiest way to remove it and replace with stock m4 handguards?

thanks
here are pics of it if that matters.

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Did you install it? If so, did you use loctite?

If you used Loctite (blue), you will most likely need a heat gun or small torch. Looking at the picture you will need to remove the gas block first....then heat and remove the screws followed by the tube/handguard. To get the handguard off you will need to loosen the nut with a spanner wrench.
 
Nope, I didnt install it.
This is the way I purchased it. I will contact the seller and ask him.

Is there such thing as a wrench that must be used to uninstall?
 
That looks like a YHM one piece free float.
You will need a strap wrench to remove it.
You will have to remove your gas block and gas tube to free the forend.
You will need to remove the flash suppressor if you have one installed to slide the gas block off the barrel so you can install the round handguard cap behind the gas block.
Removing the flash suppressor also makes it easier to remove the one piece handguard, you won't have to try and work the gas block through the handguard to remove the handguard from the barrel assembly.

Once that is done, you will need to install a standard barrel nut, weld spring and delta ring on the back end.
You will need to install a round handguard cap behind the gas block, the gas tube will extend through this cap.

You will need to have on hand the set of standard handguards you wish to use before you take everything apart.
There is nothing more frustrating than getting a build 90% completed and then end up waiting for the finishing parts to arrive.

You will need an action block, a sturdy vise, and solid bench.
You will need the heavy duty strap wrench and possible a propane torch if whoever put the upper together did glue the forend on with Loc-Tite,(to the bane and disgust of gunsmiths everywhere,).

You will need a good barrel nut wrench to install the barrel nut.
Some p[eople use a torque wrench to get the thing exactly this many foot pounds tight, some don't.

Buy a book like "The Complete AR Assembly Guide" read it and understand what you are doing before you proceed.

Then again you could find an AR certified gunsmith to do all this for you,,,,,,
 
Thanks Onmilo, I will see if anyone wants to trade uppers + $40bucks on their side. is that a fair deal for someone looking for a quad rail forearm?
 
Thanks Onmilo, I will see if anyone wants to trade uppers + $40bucks on their side. is that a fair deal for someone looking for a quad rail forearm?

that depends on the quality of the rest of the parts in the upper. Not all uppers are the same quality even though they may look the same. The barrels, bolt carrier assemblies and other parts make a big difference.
 
Unless you plan to change barrels or other accessories with any regularity, I'd just take it to a smith. You'll need about $100 worth of tools. If the gas block is pinned to the barrel, it can make the job much more difficult.

There is nothing more frustrating than getting a build 90% completed and then end up waiting for the finishing parts to arrive.

Tell me about it. I'm waiting on a free float tube from a company that only takes mail/fax orders- as of this morning they haven't cashed the check I mailed to them over a week ago, not sure if they are slow or if the pony express is extra slow.:banghead:
 
Well, here are the specs on the upper if anyone wants to trade + $40 here in Hou, TX.

16" upper, does not have the m4 barrel cuts. Thin lightweight barrel 1/9 twist, Chrome lined barrel and made by J&T Dist. The upper is a stag and has the Cerro Forge (Keyhole) marking. Comes with gasblock.

Carrier is properly staked and is a flattop upper. Photo shown below to compare barrel with the colt 6920 on far left.

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