Good posts/recommendations ... Keeperfaith, you are among friends.
Keeperfaith said:
thing going through my mind was "dammit i should have got the 25 dollar single stage press...
You can remove the center hex rod that actuates the auto-indexing of shell plate and turn the Pro 1000 into a single stage/turret press. After you adjust your dies on the turret, manually rotate the turret to use the other dies.
If you are new to reloading, starting on a single stage press is highly recommended. I have helped set up new reloaders with Pro 1000 but now do so with a single stage press on the same bench as Pro 1000 will only do short rifle cases like .223/7.62x39. I have them go through the reloading basics on the single stage then transfer the reloading process on the Pro 1000 using progressive operation (performing multiple "progressive" reloading tasks with the same cycling of ram lever). If you like, you can do the same by switching to single stage mode to get yourself familiar with the reloading steps then using the Pro 1000 in progressive mode.
But it can be done. I would recommend you review all the Pro 1000 setup/operation/troubleshooting videos by Lee Precision first to familiarize yourself with the Pro 1000 then duplicate the steps on your Pro 1000 -
http://www.youtube.com/user/LeePrecisionInc/search?query=Pro+1000 At the Lee Precision Pro 1000 link, start with the Pro 1000 Demo and like the video, I would leave the case feeder tubes off the press until you have the press operating properly (you can even take the case feeder off the slider and manually feed the case by hand).
For initial setup of Pro 1000, I use the following steps (I am working on a primer feed attachment post for the Pro 1000 support thread and may also do a step-by-step Pro 1000 initial setup/operation/trouble shooting thread as well. So, stay tuned if you can't find help sooner):
Note: This is a quick summary outline (will do detailed step-by-step with pictures in the new thread). Reference the Lee Precision videos for each step. (I am assuming you have the right shell plate already mounted on the shell plate carrier and have the right size primer feed attachment installed)
Step 1. Mount press (drill/cut a hole on the bench top so you can collect spent primers under the hole with a can/container - My solutions for primer collection (you can also stick a large tube through the bench top and fasten the tube under the primer drop hole on press base) -
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7561808#post7561808
Step 2. Clean and lube press (I use BreakFree CLP or any motor oil I have in the garage). I usually apply 2 drops of oil on my finger tip to lube the ram surface and 1 drop on all linkage/metal contact points. Cycle the ram lever several times and wipe off excess.
Step 3. Install shell plate carrier (be sure it is seated all the way down on top of the ram or you'll crack/break the base when you tighten the hex bolt). If you want to use the press in single stage mode, leave the center hex rod out. Make sure the pin on the primer feed attachment contacts the frame rod with notches so the notches will "shake" the tray to keep ramp/trough full of primers.
Step 4. Install dies on the turret (see videos). I adjust the bullet seating/taper crimp die a little different for more precise taper crimp/OAL, so I'll cover it on Step 9 below.
Step 5. Lube the center hex rod (if using press in auto-index mode) with 1 drop of oil on finger tip and apply on hex rod above and below the shell plate carrier. Cycle the ram lever. If the shell plate timing is not set to zero, adjust shell plate timing (see video). Cycle ram lever several times to lubricate the internal nylon indexing gear while rechecking the shell plate timing.
Step 6. Add primers to tray and insert into primer feed attachment. Tap tray to fill the feed attachment ramp/trough and cycle the ram lever, making sure the pin contacts the notches on the frame rod to "shake" the tray. If the pin is not in contact with the frame rod/notches, loosen the hex bolt on the shell plate carrier and rotate carrier on the ram until it does. Tighten hex bolt.
Step 7. Perform primer feed QC check. This is very important and should be performed before each reloading session to ensure "hassle/frustration free" reloading. While looking at the primer at the bottom of the attachment, manually actuate the case senor with your finger. The primer push rod should drop and the primer should slide down on top of the rod. If the primer hangs in the ramp/trough due to burrs/gouges on the surface, you can try to repair by burnishing with folded paper. Here's step-by-step instruction -
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7865801#post7865801
If repair/burnishing of the primer feed attachment does not allow the primer to slide down freely on top of the primer push rod when the case sensor is actuated, you need to replace the primer feed attachment or help slide the primer into station #2 with a bent paper clip or small precision screwdriver.
Step 8. Once the primer feed attachment passes the QC check, continue with QC check of the rest of reloading steps by using a single spent case.
QC #1 - Shell plate time set to zero (checked)
QC #2 - Primers slide into station #2 when case sensor is actuated (checked)
QC #3 - Deprime/Resizing die in station #1 full-length sizes and pushes spent primer out
QC #4 - Primer seats properly when resized case arrives at station #2 (if primer flips and seats sideways, recheck your shell plate timing to zero)
QC #5 - Push ram halfway up to release shell plate lock and slide case out of station to verify powder charge weight (you did turn the hopper on?). Weigh powder charge and verify with load data. Even though powder charge weight is correct, I verify 3 powder charge drops to ensure powder charge weights are consistent and powder had a chance to settle in the hopper (Pro Auto Disk should drop charges with less than .1 gr variance for most small/flattened ball/flake powders like Bullseye/Titegroup/Green Dot/WST/W231/HP-38/WSF/Universal/AutoComp, etc). Note: Dump powder from case back in the hopper and fully cycle the ram lever to ensure proper Pro Auto Disk operation for each powder charge.
QC #6 - After dumping the powder charge into scale pan for QC #5, set a bullet on top of the flared case to check if you have enough flare (bullet bottom should set slightly inside the case neck and not tip over - you may need to use more flare for lead bullets). Do not over-flare, as it may reduce neck tension. Use minimum flare that will work.
QC #7 - Check OAL and taper crimp with a caliper. Using a resized/deprimed and flared case (no primer/powder), check the taper crimp/bullet seat depth (this can also be your dummy round to check for Max/Ideal OAL).
Step 9. Bullet seating and taper crimping in the same step:
Lee Precision video steps will give you "rough" taper crimp adjustment. I do the following for more precise taper crimp adjustment using a caliper:
- Unscrew the bullet seat/taper crimp die in station #3 (almost all the way out of the turret hole) and unscrew the bullet seat stem knob almost all the way out.
- Place a resized/flared case in station #3 (you'll need to raise the shell plate carrier halfway up to unlock)
- Set a bullet on the flared case neck and raise the ram all the way up.
- Screw/lower the die until it makes contact with the flared case neck
- While holding the die body, screw the bullet seating stem knob until it makes contact with the bullet.
- Lower the ram so the bullet is below the bottom of the die (be careful to not tip the bullet) and turn the die body 1/4 turn (of course, bullet seating stem knob will move with the die) and raise the ram to slightly seat/taper crimp the bullet/case.
- Using a caliper, note the OAL/taper crimp and incrementally decrease the OAL/taper crimp by rotating the die body/knob together 1/4 turn (90 degrees).
Note, OAL may decrease faster than taper crimp.
- Once desired OAL is obtained, HOLD the bullet seating stem knob while you turn the die body to decrease the taper crimp. Once desired taper crimp is obtained, finger tighten the lock ring.
Note: your OAL and taper crimp will increase when the shell plate is full of cases applying different amount of resistance, especially when you are sizing a case in station #1 and causing the shell plate to tilt (You'll need to do another QC check for OAL/taper crimp when you are in progressive mode with shell plate full and adjust as necessary).
Tip: If you want less variations in OAL/taper crimp, use resized/primed cases and leave station #1 empty.
QC #8 - Inspect the bottom of case to ensure the primer is seated at least flush, preferably slightly below flush by .004". (I usually do this QC check in batches by loading finished rounds upside down on factory ammo tray or loading tray and running my finger tip over the bottom of the cases. Any high primer will be felt and reseated on the press or in a hand priming tool).
is left handed so it
Step 10. OK, NOW you are ready to start your reloading session. I normally do a once look-over to double check nothing looks out of place. Once the shell plate is full and the first round comes off station #3, I will repeat QC #7 by rechecking the OAL/taper crimp (usually there will a slight increase and I will make the necessary adjustment - I set these initial cases aside and reseat/taper crimp later).
QC #9 - I will occasionally randomly spot check each of the reloading steps.
Step 11. Resupply primers/powder as needed. If using case feeder, resupply cases.
TIP: I prefer to set bullets with my left hand and it covers the top of case neck as the case arrives into station #3 and powder won't spill out from.
Changing shell plate:
Lee Precision video shows using a socket and wrench to remove the shellplate with the carrier on the press. When the shellplate carrier is out of the press, I use a two hand method.
- Remove the hex rod
- Insert an Allen wrench or screwdriver in station #1 to hold the shell plate
- Insert the right sized Allen wrench in the center hole so the wrench sticks out as shown in the picture below
- With the carrier body braced on the left hand, give a firm push on the Allen wrench to loosen.
NOTE: thread will loosen from the shellplate with a clockwise turn.
I hope this will get you going and keep us posted!
