Help with an Uberti Walker replica

[Little Red]

I got one second hand and it had a few modifications such as a ASM replacement barrel. Not a good idea as it required some mods to the rest of the firearm to get it to a"work" condition place. I got a new replacement barrel and it fits much better then the ASM, head space is nearly non existent. However, he filed down the Uberti arbor since the ASM arbor hole is smaller then the uberti, now the uberti is still able to be tightly mounted, with a loose barrel before the wedge is installed I suspect accuracy will suffer. A new arbor is cheap enough but I am not sure how to remove it from the Walker. I did it to a brass frame 44 1851 replica, but this set up is a little different. Any Walker experts out there that can get me going in the right direction? Thanks, John/Red

Let me hazard a guess. On the 1851 replica the arbor screwed in and a pin came from above and locked it in place. On the walker the pin mounts from the back straight in to the arbor. I think you screw the arbor in and out once the pin has been drilled out and to lock the arbor back in place another pin would have to be inserted, correct?

 

[DoubleDeuce 1]

I sure hope you didn't pay too much for your project Walker:banghead:

 

[Smokin'Joe]

Based on my knowledge of metal working I would try to reduce the size of the arbor hole in the barrel. A bushing could be made out of steel or even copper tubing and fitted into the hole. The mating parts would then need to be sized properly. This would provide for a permanent repair. Increasing the diameter of the arbor hole in the barrel may be required to get a good fit for the bushing. The problem you have should be rather easy to repair using the bushing technique. I would strongly advise against replacing the arbor.

 

[RPRNY]

Smokin' Joe speaks with wisdom. Brass bushing makes sense.

 

[Little Red]

May I as why you recommend not replacing the arbor? I can get a genuine Uberti replacement for $22+ shipping and I have replaced one in a 1851 replica, was not that difficult. I was just caught off guard with the retaining pin, it goes thought the back of the frame and I would guess sits offset going through both the arbor threads and frame to lock it in place. The current arbor was filed down to fit the ASM barrel and it was not uniformly done, thus the bushing idea would likely require I machine the existing arbor down in addition to making bushings. Doing that would require the removal of the arbor too. It just seems to me that replacement is the easiest way to go. I have done a lot of gunsmithing on my PPK's, my Mauser P-38, a handful of BP revolvers as well as a number of other antique firearms, actually even brought back a relic 1858 Army New Model Remington Police model to firing condition so I feel competent in my ability to do the work once that arbor pin question was/is answered. And logically, it must be the way I described in my edit on my first post on this thread.
As an aside, I got the project at a local flea market for $125.

 

[Smokin'Joe]

May I as why you recommend not replacing the arbor?

Are both arbors of the same diameter where they are threaded? Are the threads of the same pitch? Will the wedge slot in the replacement arbor align properly? There are several more concerns with a replacement arbor but I think you get the picture. Careful hand working of the existing arbor would allow you to make the original arbor function properly without removal.

 

[Little Red]

I would suspect that being an Uberti Arbor, it would work as well as the Uberti barrel I bought. I am going to try something before I replace the arbor. I took an aluminum can and cut 2 3/8" strips which I then glued to the arbor with Sinbad glue, a type of superglue on steroids. slipped the barrel on and it no longer wiggles up & down or side to side. Before that only happened after I installed the wedge. I'll try this at the range but to be honest I don't like knowing that it had to be "rigged" to work, I may still replace the arbor. Heck, if it IS a different arbor they send, I'll send it back for a refund and at least have the current arbor out so I can have it turned down uniformly.

 

[Smokin'Joe]

I think you got a good deal even if you need to use shim material for it to function properly.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Well, the new arbor will probably be too short so it would need to be shimmed anyway. The thing is, they all need to be "rigged" to be right. I guess you need to figure out how much "rigging" is acceptable. I use steel shims and then "bed" the arbor with JB Weld. That way it is "fixed" in length as well as the circumference. If you bedded your arbor, you would have a perfect fitting arbor and wouldn't have to glue anything to the arbor.

Just a suggestion.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com

 

[72coupe]

War Story

Before I went to Vietnam in 1968 I decided that teaching my self to shoot quickly and accurately from the hip might be a good thing. So I took my Centenial1860 Army and my Uberti 2nd model dragoon out into my father in laws field and shot them until they were very loose.

I thought I could tighten up the dragoon with a wider wedge. Instead I broke the end off the arbor. So I ordered a new arbor. When it came it was not threaded and I had no way to thread it. So I boxed up the new arbor and the complete but broken dragoon and sent it to Uberti's American dealer.

Uberti sent me a brand new dragoon. Of course I didn't see it until the end of 1969.

 

[rcflint]

Drill out the pin that locks the arbor.. It is (in the other revolvers, 51,60,61) the same as the two pins used to locate the barrel and frame, so it is not very deep.

If I ever have to remove an arbor,(I have a few) I tap the hole the pin was in for a set screw, which makes future removal much easier, should it be necessary.

 

[45 Dragoon]

72coupe,
I remember you posting about the arbor end breaking off before (glad you reminded me!). The main reason that could happen was because there was room in the barrel assy for it to go. When the arbor dead ends into the barrel assy, there can be a transfer of energy instead of "jack hammering" the wedge. I had an ASM Walker eat wedges like candy (long before I understood what was really happening). Sometimes, so bad that I would have to use a punch and hammer them out !!!

The Colt type open tops are sooo nice to shoot when set up right - they just feel like a "real" gun when the report is accompanied with an appropriate kick! I've heard that the '60 was the first Colt to kick and when set up right , they wern't kidding!!

Anyway, thanks for the post!!

Mike

 

[Little Red]

Well it looks like I have to live with the arbor I have. Uberti is no longer supplying a stand alone arbor, just with a frame and neither VTI or Numrick offer frames. I think all will be good with a little brass sheet soldered to my arbor.