Help with loading .40

[Bovice]

I've loaded up two batches now of .40 for my P229, and on the first batch, I brought out nothing but the reloads and shot horribly. I felt pretty sure that it wasn't entirely my fault but to be sure, I loaded up another batch of 100 and got 100 factory federal red box (180gr) to compare. With the federals, I got a good tight group at about 12 yards, and the rounds were landing exactly where I wanted. With my reloads, I was maybe keeping them within a paper-plate sized area.

My loads were:

155gr Hornady XTPs, 5.4gr of Titegroup
180gr FMJ, 4.6gr of Titegroup

Both were equal in their inaccuracy (or accuracy if you think with the glass half full). I chose those loads based on two sources, and picked the midrange charge.

My protocol for loading is tumbled clean, check case length w/ calipers, de-prime and resize, prime, load powder, powder check, flare, seat bullet, check overall length with a .40 gauge, done.

I have heard that it's important to watch out for bullet setback with .40, so I only flare it enough to get the bullet seated. It is so slight that I have to hold the bullet in place over the case mouth until it slides up into the die.

Should I taper crimp my rounds? Will that improve the accuracy? Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Note: No signs of overpressure are present. No flattened primers, chewed up brass, etc. Cycling of the action seems normal. I just can't hit anything with my reloads!

 

[TonyT]

The Hodgdon manual lists 4.7 gr. Titegroup as maximim load with the 180 gr. Hornady bullet. My copy does not have data for 155 gr. jacketed bullets.

I have loaded for the 40 S&W using 180 gr. jacketed and WSF for ca 900 fps with excellent accuracy in my 229 Sport. That 229 Sport will shoot the same size group with 155 and 180 gr, plated or jacketed bullets using either WST, American Select or WSF as powders. Most of my loads are on the lighter side using WST or American Select with WSF being used for loads approaching factory loads. I have never used Titegroup in loading for the 40 S&W.

I am at a loss to explain the huge difference in group size.

 

[Gadzooks Mike]

155gr Hornady XTPs, 5.4gr of Titegroup

That's exactly what I shoot and don't have any accuracy problems, at least none that aren't caused by me. You might try dropping the load down to 5.2 or even 5 to see if there's any difference.

 

[rogn]

Or try another powder

 

[Historian]

I am shooting a Smith & Wesson .40 M&P. I generally load 5.5g of Power Pistol or 4.3g of W231 under a 180g Barry's bullet. I have found these two loads to be comparable or better than factory as far as accuracy.

Historian
______________
"A general dissolution of principles and manners will more surely undo the liberties of America than the whole force of a common enemy."
Samuel Adams

 

[cougar1717]

I chose those loads based on two sources, and picked the midrange charge.

It doesn't appear that you worked these loads up. Working any load up is an important part of finding an accurate load. Since the factory ammo grouped well, it is possible that a very accurate charge for your pistol was within .2 grain of your loads, but you won't know if you don't try different charge weights between the minimum and maximum data.
I would work the load up with Titegroup and if you still have accuracy problems try powders like Universal, HS-6, or any of the others suggested here.

 

[Doogledog]

"Should I taper crimp my rounds? Will that improve the accuracy?"

How did you crimp? You didn't roll crimp did you?

 

[rcmodel]

Titegroup would be far down my list of powders for the .40 S&W.
Especially with 180 grain bullets.

Just checked the Hodgdon manual, who sells Titegroup, and it's far down their list too!

The .40 S&W is a high pressure cartridge, running the same 35,000 PSI as Magnum revolver calibers.
It will do better with medium burn rate powders like HS-6, Autocomp, Universal, Unique, etc.

Using very fast burning Titegroup behind a 180 grain bullet is like hitting a bowling ball with your fist.

You'd get the bowling ball moving faster, and probably straighter, without breaking your hand, if you pushed it with your palm. (Using slower medium burn rate powder)

rc

 

[cpaspr]

One thing I noticed is that you are belling the case after adding powder. That seems odd to me. Could you be packing the powder when you do that? Using single stage presses, I always size and deprime in step one, then bell in step two (and have had a few split at this point), then add primers using a hand-prime tool, then add powder in groups of 50, scan all cases for consistent powder charges, then seat bullets and just remove bell. Final step is to run through a Lee factory crimp die, just in case I have a bullet or two slightly oversize.

 

[HighExpert]

Sounds like you have the basics OK, but, you need to taper crimp any semi-auto reload. You take a real chance of recoil induced setback resulting in higher pressures and will always have problems with consistency with the reloads. I would bet that a session with a chronograph would convince you quickly. You probably have wide range of velocities being created. Just my two cents worth after loading several hundred thousand rounds of match ammo. Good luck.

 

[Bovice]

Thanks for the advice. I have a taper crimp die ordered from Midway and I sure as hell won't be loading any more until it gets here.