Help with Python finish and care

[goColt]

I recently picked up one of my dream guns: Colt's Python!! The guy I bought it from said it was built in '77 and has a nickel finish. He said he only put 1/2 box ammo through it and from the condition I believe him.

Is there any way to check to see if it is nickel vs. stainless? If it is nickel what are the suggested cleaners? The serial # is VZ3XXX.

Thanks for any info!!

Chris

 

[mattz357]

I would say that you could call Colt, but I don't know if that would really help. Just in case, 1-800-962-COLT used to be the number, but I don't see a "civilian" section on the website anymore. Nickel generally has more of a silver/yellow tone, while hard chrome and stainless have a silver/white. I'm sure someone else will chime in with a more foolproof method, but that's about all I've got. Hope this helps!

 

[PlayTheAces]

Is there any way to check to see if it is nickel vs. stainless?

Wouldn't a magnet work?

Most grades of stainless steel are non-magnetic, while nickel plated carbon steel should be.

 

[Monkeyleg]

To figure out if it's stainless or nickle: take a small magnet, such as a refrigerator magnet. Apply it to an area of the revolver that's inconspicuous, such as the underside of the trigger guard. (Someplace where a minute scratch won't be noticed, if it should happen).

It it sticks, it's nickle. If it doesn't, it's stainless.

As for cleaners, avoid anything like Hoppes #9 or others that contain ammonia. Others here have said they use ammonia-based solvents, then wipe the gun down quickly, and with no ill effects.

So, YMMV.

 

[Standing Wolf]

As for cleaners, avoid anything like Hoppes #9 or others that contain ammonia. Others here have said they use ammonia-based solvents, then wipe the gun down quickly, and with no ill effects.

I used Hoppe's No. 9 on my nickel-plated Detective Special years with no ill effects. If I'd known there was a chance it could ruin the nickel plating, I wouldn't even have considered using it.

If the revolver is stainless, the inside of the grip frame will be slightly rough and dull-surfaced, since it wouldn't have been polished to perfection. If that part of the revolver is as shiny as the rest, you've got a nickel-plated Python.

Once upon a time, Colt did the best nickel-plating in the country.

 

[Jim Watson]

Most firearms stainless steels are martensitic or ferritic and are magnetic.
I don't have a stainless Python (shudder) but my stainless S&W and stainless Springfield are magnetic.

I used a lot of non-magnetic austenitic stainless pipes and pumps in fertilizer, fuel, and chemical R&D but you wouldn't want a gun made out of that stuff. Talk about galling.

Colt did not bring out the stainless Python until 1983 so if yours is really a 1977 gun it is surely nickel plated.

I clean all my guns of whatever material with M-Pro 7 which is a detergent mix, not an oily ammoniacal sovent brew. Unless a high velocity rifle needs decoppering.

The reason not to use an ammoniacal solvent on nickel plate is that if it was electroplated as most used to be, there is a layer of copper to bond the nickel to the steel. Any flaw in the plating would let the ammonium compounds attack the copper and peel the nickel.

 

[goColt]

Thanks!! Looks to be nickel alright

Well, I used a soft magnet and it sure does stick. I also took the grips off and it is glossy and there is a little discoloration where the wood meets the frame. I guess it is nickel after all. Dang!! I was hoping for stainless. Guess I gotta take extra care.

Thanks to all for the tips on ID'ing the finish and for taking care of it.

BTW: I paid $550 for the gun. Is that as good a deal as I think it is?

 

[dfariswheel]

First, the stainless steels used in firearms are magnetic.
Magnets stick quite nicely to my stainless Pythons.

Most stainless Pythons I've seen over the years are easy to ID.......They're marked.

Open the cylinder, and look inside the barrel lug where the ejector rod fits.
If it's stainless there should be a small "S" stamped in the recess.

Push the ejector rod, and look on the back of the cylinder at the pressed-in center bushing, under the ejector.
The pressed-in bushing should also have an "S" stamped on it.

 

[Monkeyleg]

dfariswheel, there was a guy in the local shop last year who had bought a shiney Python and thought it was nickel. I and the sales clerk looked at it, and it just didn't seem like it was shiney enough. It looked to me like a home-polishing job. I put a small magnet to it, and it didn't stick.

Maybe the magnet wasn't strong enough. Don't know.

Anyway, the $550 price seems like a good one for any Python.

 

[kennedy]

goColt, if you decide to sell the nickle colt, let me know I have been looking for one, I also am in Indiana.

 

[goColt]

Can't find and "S" anywhere

Well, I checked and I cannot find any "S" on the frame, cylynder or anywhere else on the gun. I guess it is a nickel finish. I may still calll Colt's and see if they can tell me for sure.

Thanks to everyone for all the tips and help!!

Chris

 

[BluesBear]

In 1977 Colt had NOT yet made ANY Pythons in stainless steel.

However your's was NOT made in 1977. In 1977 they were still using the E suffix.

The V Series started in late 78 with V01001. So yours was made much later.

Check your PM.