Help young guys understand the 1911, three questions

Status
Not open for further replies.
Been fooling around with 1911s since my first issue back in the early 1970s and love em!

I have tried the various fads that the 1911s have gone through, such as the big beavertail safeties, wide thumb safeties, full length guide rods and most of the rest.

The full length guide rods doesn't do much for me...maybe if I had tried a tungsten guide rod I might have felt a bit more forward weight, but the standard steel models, I just couldn't feel much, if anything.

The Series 80 firing pin safety as others have noted, have come a long way with regard to its feel. The first Series 80 models seemed to interfere with a good trigger but lately, not so much.

Main spring housings: There was and is a lot of howling about that item, and they come in flat, arched, wedged, v-shaped, and probably a few I haven't seen yet. If you have a tendency to shoot low, the arched MSH might help you with that issue.
Colt came out with a nylon MSH and there is a lot of opinion on it. I don't mind them a bit. They don't have any bluing to rub off shiny-maybe except for the stainless models which might be painted, but I like blued pistols so its not an issue. It wont rust, seems to be durable.

Grip safety: Lots of different designs on that one too. After trying some of the fancy ones, I find that I like the basic style best. Some like the upswept style and a few, like my lady, like the duckbill that Colt put out for a few years.

Thumb safety: Some like the big paddle types because it gives them a better purchase on it. I prefer the teardrop style as the basic Colt comes with these days. Big enough for me to swipe on or off easily, but it doesn't dig into my flesh or holster like some other designs do. The GI issue was a bit on the small side but not bad.

Forward Slide Serrations: I'd rather not. I know they are supposed to assist in press checking for a live round in the chamber, but I don't like my hands anywhere close to the muzzle, and I don't personally like the looks.

My favorite and daily carry is a Series 80 Colt basic model I received for Fathers Day/Birthday last year. Close but not tight fit to the slide/frame/barrel bushing. Wood grips. Nothing fancy. It shoots well for me and I have over 3K of semi wadcutters and jacketed hollowpoints through it with no malfunctions at all.

I replaced the wood grips with Pachmyer wraparounds because I like the purchase they give me.

Spent about 15 minutes with a Les Baer sear jig and a very fine ceramic stone I bought from Brownells to smooth up the sear and hammer. It didn't change the pull weight but the break is cleaner as the stock trigger pull had just a bit of creep in it. I would have had a smith smooth it up but I have other 1911s so it was cheaper for me to buy the tools to do it right.

I put on an arched mainspring housing because I like the feel, the flat was okay and no complaints about it.

I fitted a flat firing pin stop because the extractor was a touch loose-not badly so, but I like the way the flat stop works and can tell the difference in recoil. Some can, some cannot. Took about 20 minutes with a file. The empties don't fly quite as far and seem to land in more of a pile than scattered all about. Because I reload, this is a benefit for me.

I am about to replace the long trigger with a short one because I find that I cannot put a gloved hand safely inside of the trigger guard. With that done, I am very happy and will shoot the bejabbers out it!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e323/dnanncarr/GovernmentModel.jpg
 
Last edited:
What's the difference between full length guide rods (FLGR) and GI guide rods, what are the pros and cons for each type, and which do you prefer?

FLGR: Makes some people feel better with things that has nothing to do with winning gun fights.

GI: Makes better sense in every other things.


B.) What's the difference between flat and curved or arched mainspring housings, what are the pros and cons for each type, and which do you prefer?

Each fits people's hand differently.


C.) What's the difference between a "model 70 and model 80" style action, what are the pros and cons for each type, and which do you prefer?

Series 80 has a trigger operated firing pin block.

I prefer series 80, since it guards against sear failure and dropping.

Lightened firing pin on some Series 70 may prevent intertia fire when dropped, but it won't guard agaisnt sear failure.


Avoid Schwartz system. It makes no sense what so ever.
 
> guide rod

I've moved from the traditional "GI" system to a full-length guide rod because age and athritis have made wrestling with the loose spring and plug more hassle than I want to put up with.

> grip

I like the looks of the flat mainspring housing, but my hand likes the feel of the arched one. If you want exotic patterns, you're mostly stuck with a flat housing.
 
An FLGR is in my 10mm Les Baer. It keeps the spring from kinking on the heavyweight monolith and rubbing the dust cover scraping off the bluing. Mr Baer commented when I asked him about it that "it was the first time he heard of an FLGR actually being useful".

It is kind of a pain otherwise. I strongly prefer GI style.
 
"...full length guide rods ad a touch more weight in the front of the gun helping in recoil. also pretty standard in Bull Barrel guns. The 1911 works with either, as its function is to only hold the spring straight. I prefer 2 piece though do have bull barreled 1911's that have the FLGR. "

Both the 80 and 70 series pistols are prevented from firing without the grip safety depressed. That's why it's called a "Grip Safety"...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top