Hi Power Sear Question and Feed Problem

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Natrona

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Oct 27, 2019
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Folks:
Replaced hammer/sear/trigger and springs (Cylinder and Slide: CS0025A reduced trigger pull spring kit) in an older HP circa 1962. Has the humped feed ramp and internal extractor. Won't feed properly and I made the rookie mistake of not test firing gun before I worked on it. Bought it from my brother and assumed it worked, but when I questioned him he told me he had never fired it.
The new sear has a small "nub" on top face on right hand side. The old sear was completely flat/smooth on top. I "inked" the slide to make sure it would not ride on this nub and had to file a small amount off to ensure no interference, but it is still "proud" to the top of the sear.
Question:
What is the function of this nub and should I completely remove it to make top of sear smooth/flat like the original?
My thinking is that although slide clears this nub fine when I rack it something might be interfering when I fire the weapon.
Extractor holds the round fine and gun is thoroughly cleaned. Feed ramp is smooth/polished. Mag is original. Can't figure out what's causing mis-feed would appreciate any advice.
 
Just replacing parts in a firearm is not a good idea, especially on an older design that was made pre-CNC. Parts should be fitted to the individual frame and other parts to ensure correct function and safety. Sometimes you can get lucky, but it is not to be counted on. C&S makes great parts and I have used many of their parts.

Replace the old parts and test fire to establish a baseline. What ammo? New recoil and magazine springs? The humped feed ramp has been known to cause feeding issues with hollow points and some other than ball profiles. Extractor hook profile and tension can cause problems, too. You can test for that by removing the extractor and attempting to feed.

All of the newer Hi Powers have that sear nub. Mine from the 80s (first one 1982) have it and they were probably on older C and T series guns after the external extractor was introduced. It serves to allow the builder/smith to adjust take-up in the trigger to sear connection. The end of the sear lever (pinned into the slide) presses down on it to trip the sear. A small amount of take-up is necessary, too much is detrimental to a good trigger feel, and too little can cause other issues. Take-up was not an issue of concern to users in the earlier days.
 
I have heard Bullseye pistol shooters talk about High Power smiths. I don't know them, or if any are still alive, but that pistol needs to go to one.
 
BBBBill
Many thanx for your taking time to reply.
Ammo is cheap range load "Estate" 115 grain FMJ. Replaced recoil spring and main spring, but did not touch magazine. Existing mag marked: "Italy Cal. 9MM Nato/Luger".

C&S parts installed easily but did have to work at fitting new extended safety. Overall gun is very tight and racks smoothly, trigger feels decent and has about a 5.5 lb pull.

I will take your advice and establish operational baseline with old parts and probably get a new Mecgar magazine. Read Steve Camps book and he recommends the 13 round version.

I am a retired engineer and violated the common law of "if it aint broke dont fixit." Bad idea to have replaced parts before I knew what condition the gun was in. Thanks for setting me straight and I won't make this mistake again.
 
...I will take your advice and establish operational baseline with old parts and probably get a new Mecgar magazine. Read Steve Camps book and he recommends the 13 round version...

A new mag is fine, but your old one was made by MecGar. They have had the contract for them for many years. You can get new mag springs from Wolff - Springs for 1935 (HI POWER) Semi-Auto Pistols (gunsprings.com)

Steve Camp was a great guy. I had quite a few conversations with him. He is missed.
 
Why does someone replace parts on a gun they have never fired before??

How about start easy and get new recoil spring and new mag spring??
 
Cylinder and Slide are known Hi Power mechanics with a good reputation. BBBBill gives good advice. See if it runs with the original parts. I had a 1972 vintage Hi Power that would feed ball all day long, but choked on some hollow points.[/QUOTE
My Browning Hi Power was made in 1972 also. Nice gun but did not like anything but ball ammo.
One of the reasons I went to the Colt 1911.
Also was not left hand friendly for this shooter.
Can't believe what they are going for now. Mine was used when I bought it in about 1974. I believe it was about $125.00
Oh... the good 'ol days.
 
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