Browning Hi-Power Slam Fire problems

[mcorso]

Hello, my name is Mike and I have used The High Road in the past as an information resource but this is my first posting. I’ve tried to be as detailed as possible.

I recently purchased a used Browning Hi-Power from a co-worker, it had been a bit neglected quite dirty, a little surface rust, and a worn spring, but it functioned at the range when I replaced the main spring. I’ve been looking for a refinishing project and thought this would make a good candidate. I got it home field stripped it and thoroughly cleaned and oiled it.

On my next range trip I got through about a box of rounds with no problems and was very happy with the accuracy of the gun. I then had a slam fire, released the slide stop to chamber a round and the gun went off. I thought negligent discharge my fault I must have had my finger on the trigger luckily I was pointing downrange at the time. Unloaded the gun, stepped back, wiped my sweaty hands off, reloaded the magazine, released the slide to chamber a round (very careful about my finger and muzzle direction), boom, slam fire. Unloaded the gun and took it home.

My first thought was a stuck firing pin but after I pulled the pin out cleaned it, the slide and replaced the spring I tested the gun again and I have the same issue. What I have found is that every few times when the slide is released using the slide stop or sling shotting the slide by hand the hammer doesn’t stay cocked and follows the slide forward. I have not gotten this result if I cock the gun by hand and more slowly guide the slide to chamber a round, and the gun does not seem to double fire, yet. Needless to say but this gun is not safe and won't be heading to the range without some more new parts and is currently on the shelf in “bag-o-gun” status

After taking the gun completely apart the trigger pieces, sear lever, and hammer appear to be in good shape, the trigger lever is a bit worn but the sear itself seams the likely culprit. Looking at the frame of the gun, with muzzle pointing away, there is a tab on the right side of the sear that the sear lever contacts and pushes down against to release the hammer, this surface is quite worn. And the surface the safety contacts is a bit worn as well, though this appears to be from filing maybe when the gun was assembled. These are the only parts of the gun that has all the finish worn off and appears that some metal has worn down as well, I’m guessing from the slide traveling over it and maybe fitting. Since having this issue I have read about the safety “click test” and this gun doesn’t pass, the sear falls slightly. I’ve also read that the original sear itself is a cast part and more prone to wear than the aftermarket hardened sears and is a common upgrade item. What I plan to do is purchase a new aftermarket hammer and sear for the gun, maybe a trigger lever too, but before plunking down $100 plus bucks I wanted to check with some folks who have more experience with this firearm or hear if anyone has had a similar experience with the browning hi-power.

Please see the pictures below if I can get them to work

Thank you in advance for your time and advice.

-Mike



sear showing worn surface that the sear lever contacts

sear showing worn surface that the safety contacts as well as the worn surface that holds hammer cocked

trigger lever

hammer

 

[4v50 Gary]

Sounds like it needs a new sear and trigger lever.

 

[MrDig]

Sounds like it needs a new sear and trigger lever.

Yes the first place I would inspect is the sear and how it connects to the hammer followed by the trigger lever and its connections to the mechanism It could also be the hammer itself is the seer mating up with it properly?

 

[Rail Driver]

Your sear looks like it's definitely been filed on, and is worn. The trigger lever looks worn as well.

As far as the hammer, it's generally a good idea to replace that with the sear anyway (with parts from the same company). I recommend getting all 3 parts from the same company if possible.

It honestly looks like someone tried to give it a trigger job and fouled up.
I'm surprised it didn't give you the slamfire/hammer follow problems when you first got it.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Wow. Someone mangled that all up with a file and or hammer. I'd replace most all those parts and when you test it put no more that two in it for some time.

 

[BBBBill]

Your sear has been filed and rightfully so. The small tab is a fitting point for the sear lever engagement and the safety engages where the other file marks are located. Both are fitting points, though they could have been done more neatly. The surface that concerns me is the sear nose which engages the hammer. The pic is not very clear, but it appears that the nose had been peened unevenly and that is where I think your probelm lies. The fit of that surface to the hammer is critical. Once that surface is fit, the safety can be fit. to block the sear from movement when on safe. So replacing the sear looks to be a good move here due to the damage, potential softness, and the poor safety fit that will get worse as you stone the sear to correct (that can be fixed, but why when you can replace with a better part). Your hammer looks fine (they usually are), but could stand a bit of cleanup in a proper jig.
My recommendations-
1. Replace the sear as a minimum. The best currently available is the one from Chuck Warner and is called the "True Radius" sear. The C&S and EGW are also good choices.
2. Consider buying the hammer and sear set from Warner. They are primo quality.
3. The trigger lever is probably fine, but should be fit as part of the process.
4. Consider sending it to a qualified smith if you don't really know how to fit (not assemble, fit) the parts safely and don't have the jigs to do so. I can recommend Chuck Warner, Don Williams,, and Jim Garthwaite as qualified smiths, though I'm sure there are others less well known.

 

[velocette]

One of the things that some folks do when trying to get a better trigger pull with a Hi Power is to bend / weaken the sear spring. That's the flat spring in the back of the magwell. One leg of it bears upon the lower leg of the sear. Bending it forward (toward the muzzle) will increase pressure upon the sear to hold it in place. You can try bending it to increase tension as a beginning, before you spend your money on new sear / hammer.
By the way Cylinder & Slide make very nice high quality replacement hammer / sear kits.

Roger

 

[mcorso]

Thank you all for the advice, I hope to have some parts on the way here soon. I will update the post with how things turn out.

 

[Jim K]

Whether you choose to mention it depends on how much you want to keep a good work relationship, but it is pretty common for an amateur "gunsmith" to screw something up, then dump the gun on an unsuspecting buyer.

Jim

 

[mcorso]

I can appreciate that Jim, I already showed the gun to my co-worker, wasn't really his fault. It was from a lot that his father had had for quite sometime and had taken as a payment. I was expecting a refinish project when I bought it, now it's just a bit more involved, refit and refinish.

Thanks,

 

[EMC45]

One of the things that some folks do when trying to get a better trigger pull with a Hi Power is to bend / weaken the sear spring. That's the flat spring in the back of the magwell. One leg of it bears upon the lower leg of the sear. Bending it forward (toward the muzzle) will increase pressure upon the sear to hold it in place. You can try bending it to increase tension as a beginning, before you spend your money on new sear / hammer.
By the way Cylinder & Slide make very nice high quality replacement hammer / sear kits.

Roger


Excellent advice! I went through 2 sears in my MK3 before I realized it was the mainspring sear leg allowing the sear nose to jump the hammer hook. Bent the spring and have yet to have the first problem.