Hi Power trigger removal: can't get the pin out. Also mag safety question

[1KPerDay]

Can someone walk me through this? Israeli FN Police trade in MKIII. Trigger pin will not budge. I don't want to damage it. It appears the pin has a groove in the center and is retained by the center spar of the trigger spring. But I can't figure out a way to release tension there and I assume you just drive the pin against the spring until it rides up out of its groove, similar to AR pins. But again, I don't want to damage anything.

Tips would be welcome.

Also could someone explain the "approved way" to disable the mag disconnect safety? I've read that you need to snip the spring, apply red loctite and compress the disconnect. And polish the rear edge. Why wouldn't you simply remove the confounded thing?

 

[bainter1212]

You just remove it.

Both of mine needed a good whack to remove the trigger pins. With the right tools, it isn't too difficult.

 

[AirForceShooter]

But it goes in ONE direction.

Can't remember which way though

AFS

 

[TJx]

Can't you just pull spring up enough while driving pin out?
A 3 handed job, rig a paperclip or a curved pick maybe to act as 3rd hand?
I had the same problem on mine, pin simply would not budge. Took it to gunsmith and he explained it and took him less than 2 minutes.

 

[WVsig]

Pic of your gun would help. Some Israeli trade ins use a roll pin instead of a solid pin. As others have stated some of the pins are extremely tight and need to be hit with some force in order to free it up.

Once it is out you simply remove the disconnect.

 

[Ibmikey]

The trigger pin has a step on one end (should be on the right side when installed) a punch that will fit over the center is best but not necessary. Place the frame left Side down on a non mar hard surface with the pin over a hole that will accept it as it is driven out. With a punch and med weight hammer drive the pin out right to left. Often they will take a couple of good blows to start it so....wack it! Remove the safety parts and replace the pin in the hole in the trigger to finish it off.
I purchased Mk II and a Mk III from Aim an the pistols cleaned up exceptionally well, I blasted the enamel off and with a light buff the pistols blued to a beautiful satin blue finish. Altamont makes a thin rosewood grip that is good looking and keeps the grip thin for a good hold. Both of my pistols are excellent shooters with the III having fewer rounds through it and the II rattling a bit but they are accurate. For the $1000 investment for both I have ten times the value in shooting fun.

 

[WVsig]

Ibmikey is spot on!

 

[RainDodger]

According to the Browning Hi-Power Field Service Manual, ibmikey is correct.

The manual says, "Remove the Trigger Pin from right to left with a 3/32" punch. Place pressure on the Trigger and Magazine Safety with the index finger and thumb and remove the Trigger Lever from out of the top of the Frame. Remove the Trigger Assembly from out of the Trigger Guard by depressing the Magazine Safety as shown in Figure #11. NOTE: Further disassembly of the Trigger Assembly should not be required except for refinishing."

There you have it.

 

[1KPerDay]

Can't you just pull spring up enough while driving pin out?
A 3 handed job, rig a paperclip or a curved pick maybe to act as 3rd hand?
I had the same problem on mine, pin simply would not budge. Took it to gunsmith and he explained it and took him less than 2 minutes.

That's the only way that makes sense to me. The spring is wedged between the frame and the pin and the trigger... not much room to budge but I'll try that.

 

[1KPerDay]

Pic of your gun would help. Some Israeli trade ins use a roll pin instead of a solid pin. As others have stated some of the pins are extremely tight and need to be hit with some force in order to free it up.

Once it is out you simply remove the disconnect.

In case it's unclear, I'm talking about the main trigger pin, not the small pin that secures the disconnect assembly to the rear of the trigger.

Close up video here: https://youtu.be/wXSeLTPlYdo

 

[1KPerDay]

The trigger pin has a step on one end (should be on the right side when installed) a punch that will fit over the center is best but not necessary. Place the frame left Side down on a non mar hard surface with the pin over a hole that will accept it as it is driven out. With a punch and med weight hammer drive the pin out right to left. Often they will take a couple of good blows to start it so....wack it! Remove the safety parts and replace the pin in the hole in the trigger to finish it off.
I purchased Mk II and a Mk III from Aim an the pistols cleaned up exceptionally well, I blasted the enamel off and with a light buff the pistols blued to a beautiful satin blue finish. Altamont makes a thin rosewood grip that is good looking and keeps the grip thin for a good hold. Both of my pistols are excellent shooters with the III having fewer rounds through it and the II rattling a bit but they are accurate. For the $1000 investment for both I have ten times the value in shooting fun.

I've hit it hard enough (with proper tools and punches) that I'm afraid any harder and I'm going to break something. But I'll give it another go.

Thanks all

 

[WVsig]

I know what you are talking about but FN and the Isrealis used roll pins for the trigger pin at one point. The gun you bought from AIM is a Isreali surplus gun and therefore could have a roll pin instead of the solid pin. Since you were having trouble I figured I wound bring that up. Most people do not know that FN used a roll pin at some point in MKII and MKIII production.





I own 10 BHPs currently and have owned about 5 others. I removed the mag disconnect on every single one of them unless it was done before I bought it. Only trying to help but I guess you know what you are doing.

Sometimes MKIII trigger pins are very tight. Hit it harder but don't forget to protect the frame with something to prevent damage if you slip.

 

[drband]

Suggestion. Use a 4" piece of 5/16" brass round bar stock to start the trigger pin moving. (Smooth the end first) HIT it! I used a large rawhide mallet. Took a real whack!
It will not damage your frame. Tape around the trigger pin. Switch to a steel punch once you get the pin moving. You will not need much force once you get it to move.
I had a very stubborn BHP trigger pin to remove. No problems with this method.

 

[1KPerDay]

I know what you are talking about but FN and the Isrealis used roll pins for the trigger pin at one point. The gun you bought from AIM is a Isreali surplus gun and therefore could have a roll pin instead of the solid pin. Since you were having trouble I figured I wound bring that up. Most people do not know that FN used a roll pin at some point in MKII and MKIII production.
Only trying to help but I guess you know what you are doing.

Thank you kindly... I was clarifying in case anyone else was reading along. I appreciate your help. No need to be upset...

Mine has a solid trigger pin.

 

[WVsig]

Thank you kindly... I was clarifying in case anyone else was reading along. I appreciate your help. No need to be upset...

Mine has a solid trigger pin.

Not upset but clarifying my statement. As I said some MKIIIs need a fair amount of force to drive the pin out. I believe it is the epoxy finish that makes the MKIII harder than other variants.

Are you using a solid pin or a pin punch? Some people will use a solid punch, steel, brass, alum etc... to loosen the pin and then a pin punch to drive it out. If you use the pin punch from the start you will damage it.

I also place the pistol on a block of wood with a hole drilled in it to catch the pin once it is removed. This give me a "soft" surface to hit again that won't damage the pistol when I remove the pin. I have found it is not just hitting it "hard" as much as it is striking it firmly with purpose if that makes sense.
Good luck.

 

[TJx]

Something I came up with is to take a piece of moleskin pad, punch a hole in it the size of pin you're driving out, place over pin, it will help protect frame from scratches if punch slips.

 

[1KPerDay]

good idea.

 

[FL-NC]

There are some you tube tutorials on this.

 

[tarosean]

punch a hole in it the size of pin you're driving out, place over pin, it will help protect frame from scratches if punch slips.

you obviously didnt watch 1k's video... one more scratch wont make a difference.

 

[1KPerDay]

D'oh!

 

[1KPerDay]

There are some you tube tutorials on this.

Show me one. The only one I can find is an out of focus one that details a technique that doesn't work for my particular example.

 

[1KPerDay]

Well I'm stumped. Brass hammer just dents. Brass punches no dice. Roll pin starter punch with opening smaller than the end of the pin so it centers.... Not a budge. Wood bench block, nylon bench block, trying to compress the spring below the pin to relieve pressure while I drive it out... Nothing works. Steel hammer steel punch.... Hit hard enough to start deforming the pin end.... Nothing works. Judging by what I read on Mr. Camp's site it's an earlier forged frame MKIII. I really am worried that the frame is going to break I'm hitting it that hard.

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

Been thinking about this problem myself as I just bought an earlier-type pistol. The issue is the hole on the right side of the frame is smaller than the left. And the pin is the same size all the way across and not tapered, according to Steven Camp. So you have a pressed interference fit on the right side.

I plan to make a tube out of stacked flat metal washers, long enough to accept say, maybe, half the length of the pin. But not too long, as they need to stay in the tube shape and not slide off to one side. Tape them all together with electrical tape so they stay tube-shaped.

Get a big c-clamp and the washer stack. Position the washer stack over the pin on the left side, and position one side of the c-clamp over the washer stack. Start screwing the clamp down on the right side of the pin like a miniature press. The clamp will push the pin into the hole you've created in your washer stack. Or at least break the interference fit, anyway. Once you clear the right side hole the pin should come out pretty easy.

Of course, protect the frame from marring as you wish.

That's prolly what I will do, anyway, if I can't get it out w a hammer blow.

 

[SSN Vet]

It was a little un-nerving how hard I had to whack mine...

But getting rid of the gritty trigger pull caused by the mag. disconnect was well worth it.

Later I put in a tools steel sear with the TR grind and a reduced power hammer spring and I finally have a nice trigger pull. Still a little heavy, but crisp and clean.

 

[1KPerDay]

Been thinking about this problem myself as I just bought an earlier-type pistol. The issue is the hole on the right side of the frame is smaller than the left. And the pin is the same size all the way across and not tapered, according to Steven Camp. So you have a pressed interference fit on the right side.

I plan to make a tube out of stacked flat metal washers, long enough to accept say, maybe, half the length of the pin. But not too long, as they need to stay in the tube shape and not slide off to one side. Tape them all together with electrical tape so they stay tube-shaped.

Get a big c-clamp and the washer stack. Position the washer stack over the pin on the left side, and position one side of the c-clamp over the washer stack. Start screwing the clamp down on the right side of the pin like a miniature press. The clamp will push the pin into the hole you've created in your washer stack. Or at least break the interference fit, anyway. Once you clear the right side hole the pin should come out pretty easy.

Of course, protect the frame from marring as you wish.

That's prolly what I will do, anyway, if I can't get it out w a hammer blow.

Thanks, I'll try that if penetrating oil doesn't work.