hi-power

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greyling22

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from what I can tell, the belgian hi-powers are considered the best, but there are brazillian, charles daily, and other types floating around. what's the difference and are any so bad that they should be avioded at all cost?
 
I have a Charles Daily and like it. I don't have a lot of rounds through it yet, but the trigger is not very good. I ordered it sight unseen and never shot a Hi Power before, but allways liked the classic looks, and thought a single action trigger should shoot pretty nice, but it's no 1911. I took the mag safety out as soon as I got it home, because that is one feature that I can not live with. I hope it gets better with time as I don't want to spend $200 on trigger work on a $300 gun.
 
All Browning Hi Powers are made by FN in Belgium (assembled in Portugal). FN also sold Hi Powers under their own brand name, FN. Both of these are considered the "real" Hi Power and are of the best quality. FM makes clones in Argentina and FEG makes clones oin Hungary. Reports are good for both, but they are not up to the standards of the Browning or FN. However, they are also less cost. Charles Daly takes and FEG clone Hi Power and makes some changes, but I don't know much more about them. I think I read they are being discontinued, but I'm not sure.

If you want the best Hi Power around get the Browning or FN, which are the same gun, made by the same company in Belgium. Browning is just a marketing, distribution company. They don't manufacturer any guns.
 
greyling,

I wouldn't shy away from any of them personally. My first Hi-Power was the FEG PJK-9hp and I knew I was hooked on the HP. I've since acquired an FN made in 1936 and an Inglis made in 1944. While I love to handle the FN and Inglis, the FEG has given me the most consistent service so that's the one I carry and keep beside the bed! It's really a great pistol, regardless of price! I'm currently eyeballing an FM at a local store as well. I've handled it and I don't see any reason for it to be considered sub-standard in any way! Oh, there are some HP's floating around made by Indian Ordnance that are basically like the vintage Inglis HPs. I've handled one of them, and it seemed OK, but there seems to be little information on these on the net, so I can't recommend or condemn that variant. I'd say just go for it!
 
I ask b/c cdnn has CD hp's on sale, and I was wondering how they would stack up to my buddy's older all nickel browning hps.
 
I have the CD

And love it! I removed the mag disconnect and it greatly improved the trigger. I am suprised that the trigger didn't clean up with the removal of yours. I carry mine all over the place and am finally adjusting to the sights. My only complaint is that I hold very high on the pistol, riding the safety out of the holster, which causes HAMMER BITE!! Otherwise, I have only one complaint, and that is a State problem(New York) not a gun problem...the neutered 10 round mag has a partially plastic body that does not like to allow the mag to fully eject every time that the mag release is pressed. If I could find a couple pre bans around here, I would be completely set.
 
I ask b/c cdnn has CD hp's on sale, and I was wondering how they would stack up to my buddy's older all nickel browning hps.

If you are referring to the HP in 40 S&W with the SFS hammer I would pass. I am not a fan of the SFS trigger/hammer and the HP in 40 S&W is a very different gun than the 9mm versions.

You are better off with a real BHP 9mm.
 
As one who had his T-series Browning Hi Power converted to the SFS configuration, I disagree with Rellascout above. I highly recommend the .40 caliber version still being sold by CDNN. Wish I could get one myself, but California law forbids it (another topic). Many well-qualified people have no problem carrying single-action pistols in Condition One -- cocked and locked. I am not one of these. Yet I do not want to carry in Condition Three (loaded magazine, empty chamber) either. Essentially, the safety on a standard Hi Power becomes, in the SFS configuration, a hammer control. You load an SFS and chamber a round, then push the hammer down. Watch the "safety" go up as you do so. To get an SFS pistol into play you do EXACTLY THE SAME THING you would with a cocked-and-locked pistol: while drawing, flip the safety/hammer control down, and commence firing SINGLE ACTION. The only difference between the two styles is where the hammer is when the gun is holstered. Also, an SFS Hi Power is much, much easier to field strip. With the regular Hi Power, one must rack the slide all the way back to remove the slide release, then release the slide -- and perhaps losing control of it. With an SFS, one simply cocks the hammer, push/pull the slide release out, and ease the slide off forward. Reassembly is just as easy.

Try the SFS version for a while. You can always order parts from several sources to convert it -- or rather regress it -- to the 1935 version.
Cordially, Jack
 
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