High Standard Sharpshooter FTF 10-20%

[1SOW]

I have a 197X H.S. Sharpshooter that I bought new. When almost new I had a trigger job done along with lightening springs for bullseye shooting. After many thousands of rounds for the first 4 years, and many years of only periodic shooting, I've started having serious FTF problems. The trigger pull is now 'scary' light. I have replaced the recoil and firing pin springs. The others are original. Feed and ejection works perfectly when the rounds do fire.

It struck and marked the CCI low velocity cases, with a shallow & narrow line. I did fire some cheapie plated Remington's and had fewer FTFs.

I ordered and installed a new firing pin and FP spring with same results. The "new version" firing pin (from Numrich) wasn't shaped. The impact area looks just like a pin punch - round and dead flat. It only leaves a very slight circle-indentation in the cases.

Could it be the hammer spring has finally weakened where it doesn't hit the FP with enough force? Is there any other spring/part that could lead to light hits? I've been ordering springs from Wolff one or two at a time...like a dummy. I'd like to narrow it down to all other possible causes/springs before I order again.

This pistol looks and shoots like new....when it shoots

Thanks for any suggestions you can share.

 

[rcmodel]

High-Standard 103?

Yes, after "many thousands of rounds", it's time for a new hammer spring, especially if you had replaced it years ago with a lighter one to begin with.

You might also check the hammer-face for a shallow dent where it hits the firing pin. If it was improperly hardened, it may be beating out a depression in the face and not hitting the firing pin full force.

I'd order a whole SERVICE PAK - TYPE I spring set from Wolff one more time, put the orginial firing pin back in, and start over fresh.

Numrich made replacement parts are quite often crap.

You might try Brownell's for a firing pin or other factory parts if the old one is bad.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?step=2&mfgid=7&mfgname=High Standard®

rcmodel

 

[bluetopper]

You might want to ask the guys on the High Standard forum on rimfirecentral.com

 

[jaybar]

The firing pin movement may be restricted. Check it out by removing the firing pin. The firing pin and spring should just come right out the back of the slide. If the back of the slide is peened from smacking into the frame boss (slide stop) you may have to push (drive)the firing pin out from the front by inserting a small punch in the hole in the breech face.

Before you remove the firing pin, check how it protrudes out the back of the slide. It should be under spring pressure such that when you push it in, it returns with some vigor. You should see the domed rear of the firing pin plus about 1/32" of the cylindrical side of the firing pin sticking out the back of the slide. If you don't see the side of the firing pin then the back of the slide is probably peened in.
It's pretty common that the mouth of the hole that the firing pins sits in, in the slide will get peened in after lots of use particularly if the recoil spring is worn out. This will restrict the firing pin movement, causing light hits.
Before re-installing the firing pin Take a 1/4" drill bit and chuck it up in a HAND HELD chuck (no power tools please) insert the bit into the hole and ream it out to get rid of any peened in material. Only the mouth of the hole will require reaming ( maybe the first 1/8"or so) don't go deep enough to alter the shoulder that acts as a firing pin stop. Then take a 5/16" bit (finger held) and lightly chamfer the edge of the firing pin hole to avoid further peening.

Let me know what you find.

 

[1SOW]

jaybar
Bingo. I had to push the firing pin out, just as you said. It wasn't dirty and was oiled but felt exactly like what you described. That may be it or at least part of the problem. Even the replacement FP I tried didn't return to the same/proper position smoothly. I AM impressed..Thanks.

rcmodel
I agree with the spring recommendation and will do. The hammer face has a shiny/burnished look where it contacts the FP, but its not depressed/worn. Spares won't hurt anyway, and my son will appreciate 'em when he inherits it.
Yes, 101,102,103. I shoot USPSA mostly, but I'm sentimentally attached to this High Standard .22. It is a great gun.


parisite That's, of course, is good advice; but there are a lot of experienced gun guys here too. I saved the site. Thanks

 

[jaybar]

Firing pins

The firing pin that you got from Numrich is their production of firing pin that was originally designed for a much earlier version (model 100 or 101) I think. They are poorly made and are a waste of money. You can't order a new firing pin from TX High Standard or through Brownells without an FFL. There is a company that makes parts for "obsolete" guns and they make and supply a fine firing pin for the Big Button guns (102-107 models). They are a bit oversized and may have to be fitted to your gun particularly in length. They are well made and you can order them direct at http://www.wisnersinc.com/

If you remove the peening as prescribed, your original firing pin should work just fine.

 

[rcmodel]

You can't order a new firing pin from TX High Standard or through Brownells without an FFL.

Well I'll be jiggered.
I wasn't aware of that!
That there is just plain silly!

I'd bought misc. H-S parts from Brownell's a few times in the past without an FFL.
Guess not a firing pin though!

rcmodel

 

[1SOW]

You can't order a new firing pin from TX High Standard or through Brownells without an FFL.

Why would these companies decide to require an FFL for a non-mechanical single piece of steel/firingpin? THAT IS not just silly, it's wierd!

I will try to get to truing the firing pin opening soon, and will install the new spring pak for added reliability. The gun is worth it, and my son and I like to compete shooting vertical rows of 1" red stick-on circles.

Just checked : why the FFL.....High Std requires Brownell's to do it.