Hints? Tips? Suggestions? ADVICE?

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TomK

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Florence S.C.
I am the proud and quite satisfied owner of a (Cabela's) Pietta 1860 Colt "snubbie," and a (Cabela's) Pietta "1858 Remington," both of the .44 caliber persuasion.

I am considering thinking about maybe getting a conversion cylinder for one or the other.

I am kinda confined to this powered chair as my legs don't work no more, and our local range has no "shooting tables," or anything else to hold the pistol and "stuff" whilst I reload, so I'm thinking a conversion cylinder for "fixed ammunition" would allow me more time on the firing line and less time being all pi....frustrated.

I would dearly love to get a cylinder for the "Colt," as it is my favorite, although I do shoot "better" with the Remmie, (not GOOD, just "better.") I remember once, I actually hit a target using the Remington-okay, so it WAS someone else's target over on the rifle range...! But the Colt is "neater-looking" and more fun, now that I've almost won The Battle of the Wedge that is! Would those of you with experience give me some guidance on which gun would be easier to load and care for with the converter?

Between the R&D and Kirst converters, which is more "user friendly" and built to LAST, (at the prices I've seen, I hope to leave the gun and cylinder to my g-g-great grand-kids as a family heirloom.) Is ammunition for the conversion cylinders available mail-order? If so---where please?

I'm not into the Cowboy-Action thing, nor am I a competitive shooter, I just enjoy my firearms and it's a great way for me and a couple of the grand-kids to spend time together.

With this converter idea, have the Pyrodex fumes finally addled my mind, or have I actually devised an honest-to-gosh PLAN?
Thanks a bunch--TomK
 
Remington is easier to remove the cylinder from for reloading. With the Colt you need to remove the wedge. The Colt is the best cap and ball gun, but the Remington certainly makes a better cartridge gun than cap and ball (in my opinion anyways).
 
First of all, an apology: I don't have any experience with the conversion cylinders, so this message won't help with your question.

I will say that I've seen no preference for Krist or R&D amongst the postings I've read; they both seem to have satisfied customers. That's all I can add on that subject.

But perhaps I can help with your problem of no shooting tables at the range, having had to deal with a similar problem for the past few years.

First of all, consider that the original users of these guns had to deal with loading on horseback, a task considerably more difficult than when in a chair, so there are ways of making it easier. Here's what I do:

1. Get a "possible" bag. Essentially, it's a purse for your shooting supplies. The bag should have a long strap that allows it to hang from your shoulder so you can let it fall when you are done with it.

2. Some people put everything they'll ever need in it, but that just diminishes it's usefulness and makes it heavier, in my opinion. Mine contains just what I need to reload. Put only the following in the bag:

3. Powder in a flask (get a spout that holds the powder charge you use, so you don't need a powder measure),

4. Caps in a tin and a capper if you use one (highly recommended, but hard to find one that really works - Ted Cash's round capper with some filing on the end to make it fit is the best answer I've found),

5. Balls in a leather pouch; just one caliber, the one I'm shooting at any one time (that means that I have one bag for each caliber I own) and

6. lubed felt wads (much easier to deal with than grease/Crisco when you are in a chair)

Some people put lanyards on the flask, ball pouch and capper so they don't have to go back into and out of the bag every time; they just attach the lanyards to their vest or chair and let them fall away when they drop them. I don't mind keeping them in the bag; it's slower but tidier.

Consider a shooting vest, like a fishing vest, with rings on it to tie lanyards to.

Hold the gun in your left hand (because the loading port is on the right side of the gun). You will need to become practiced at using your right hand to load the gun, but you've probably already done that.

Another solution I've tried is to make a small lap board that fits across the arms of the chair - it's in a "U" shape, has a raised border to keep things from falling off and small "boxes" attached to hold one cylinder's worth of balls, wads and caps. I fill the boxes with one cylinder's worth of materials from the possible bag each time I need to reload.I've also tried a board that just sits on my lap instead of resting on the chair's arms, but it's less stable. One advantage of the lap board is that you can use a loading stand with it, thus negating the need to load one-handed.

The boards are a specialized solution; I don't know anyone who makes them for sale, so you'll need to find someone who can do custom woodwork. But they're worth it in the long run.

I no longer need the chair, but well remember when I did. Hope the above is helpful until you get the conversion cylinders.
 
Hello,

As for taking out and back in place the cylinder with the Remmy or the Colt, the Remmy is generally more practical compared with the standard 1860.
However, after having smoothen the spring of the wedge of my 1860 snubby, I can pull the wedge out by hand easily and pull the very short and light barrel without effort. Hence I would not consider that a standard 8" Remmy would have any practical advantage compared to a snubby 1860 in that matter (of handling in and out the cylinder).
Basically I would recommand the Rem if you favor accuracy but the snubby if you rather favor fun and recoil sensation.......

By the way both Pietta have slow twist barrels and will not ideally stabilize bullets

have fun
 
I have an R&D for one of my Walkers. I can attest to the quality of it. I've never seen or used a Kirst, but I've never read anything bad about them. R&D hold six, where I believe the Kirst only holds five. That's really about the only difference.
Please note, these are not rated for high power .45Colt loads. Do not use anything stronger than a cowboy action load. R&D recommends Black Hills Cowboy Ammo. I've fired blackpowder reloads and TrailBoss reloads with mine. If you reload choose a load that will give you no more than 750fps with the 250 grain bullet.
 
Many Thanks

I appreciate the gentle guidance y'all gave. Both the kids and I get a bigger "blast" shooting the snub-Colt, we go to the range pure and simple for F-U-N, no other reason, so as advised, I'm going to work on the Colt's spring and wedge a bit, and then order a cylinder for the "Colt." Kirst or R&D will depend on which I can find for the "more reasonable" price. The only problem I forsee is when I kind of take full ownership of the Colt with fixed ammo, sticking the Grans with the cap-n-ball Remington. I fear we are talking a major REVOLT:fire:--and since I have to depend on the kids to drive me to the range and back, I just might be in deep doggy-drool:uhoh:.
Thanks again--TomK
 
TK,
With any of these cylinder swaps, if they're capped, THAT' S the 'gun' and a dropped loaded cylinder can far greater consequences than an 'aw sh** !

I highly reccommend the suggested possibles bag concept as well as the fishing vest, ( they have more pockets and are often cheaper ). When I load my BP's I use a brass charger. I trim/select the spout to throw charges to match what I'm shooting. Switch from pistol to rifle ? Throw two.......

Buffalo Wads or equivalent with a rammed ball that cuts a 'halo' of lead eliminates most of the risk of chain fires. Ought to be easier from your seated position, too. On the plus side, you ought to be able to hang a lot of goodies on that power cart, so a 'possibles' bag or two and whatever else your experience suggests would increase your fun time is good too.

BTW, shootin' ain't so much about hittin' as it is about havin' fun.....But perhaps you can arrange for closer targets, and then concentrate on the 'front sight and press the trigger'...... And have FUN !! >MW
 
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