Hogue overmolded pillar bedded synthetic stock

[PaFrank]

Just picked one up (cause it was too cheap to pass up, you know how that goes)

Anyway, I'll us it for my Rem 700 Varmint special in 243.. I'll glass in the recoil lug first thing..

My question is, can I use regular acraglas or acraglas gel, or do I need to use Steelbed, like you do with Bell & Carlson stocks?

also, I'm seeing a LOT of Remington factory synthetic stocks around and super cheap. I have another rifle in need of a stock replacement, are these worth the trouble? or is it that they are so cheap because they really are gar'bage?

 

[LoonWulf]

I use Marine Tex on all my stock bedding jobs havent had an issue with any of them, including a mini14 in a hogue overmold stock.

The rem syn stocks are soft and very flexible, not conducive to getti g the most Accuracy out of a rifle. If your not concerned with that they actually feel pretty good.

 

[Bart B.]

Acraglas shrinks too much; the most of all I tested. Marinetex or Devcon plastic steel shrinks the least. Duro plastic steel is a close second place one. If it's too runny and thin, thicken the mix with a little baking flour.

Bed the whole receiver at once. Tighter overall fit that way.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

I was always under the assumption a

Acraglas shrinks too much; the most of all I tested. Marinetex or Devcon plastic steel shrinks the least. Duro plastic steel is a close second place one. If it's too runny and thin, thicken the mix with a little baking flour.

Bed the whole receiver at once. Tighter overall fit that way.

Devcon liquid or putty? and any thoughts on the score high and miles gilbert kits, they are both glass bedding so I'm assuming similar results to Agraglass?

 

[Bart B.]

Devcon in the two tube kits mixed on site. A little runny at times. No experience with those others.

 

[farmerboy78]

Use devcon to bed, but you need to do something to stiffen that entire stock. It will flex when using a bipod and cause it to touch the barrel. That is from personal experience with one in the past.

 

[P89DCSS]

I used JB Weld, nice and tight 3 years later, cheap too. Those Remington stocks suck, very flexible, not worth the time to make right.

 

[LoonWulf]

I used JB Weld, nice and tight 3 years later, cheap too. Those Remington stocks suck, very flexible, not worth the time to make right.

All it really takes is epoxying a piece of steel/aluminum channel or round/square tube (or solid), into the for end. While that won't achieve target stock stiffness if you open the barrel stock gap a bit its plenty for most purposes. I wouldnt do it tho unless you like the way the factory stock fits, as there ARE better options for aroumd 100-150 bucks.

 

[Bart B.]

a piece of steel/aluminum channel or round/square tube (or solid), into the for end.

How does that prevent the fore end from bending at its hinge point below the stock between magazine and recoil lug relief areas below the receiver's front ring? That piece only stiffens the fore end across its length. It doesn't stiffen that very flexible part of the stock under the receiver's front end.

Remove fore end material 1/16" around the barrel breech end to 1/8" around the barrel at fore end tip. That'll help cool the barrel faster and the rifle is a few ounces less weight.

 

[LoonWulf]

How does that prevent the fore end from bending at its hinge point below the stock between magazine and recoil lug relief areas below the receiver's front ring?

It doesn't which is why i always open up the barrel gap when i do it. Its far from a perfect option but for the guy who cant afford a better stock it helps. For giggles on one spare I actually put a piece of square tube all the way back to the mag well, cut it for the recoil lug, and drilled it thru for the front action screw, then coated the whole mess in a few layers of marine tex. It didnt help anymore than just doing the forend, but also there wasnt much left of the sides of the tube.