Home Made Lanolin Case Lube Portions

[9mmepiphany]

The gallon Zip Loc freezer bag is your friend. I spray into the bag zip it shut and massage the brass around a couple minutes, then I dump it and let the Iso Heat flash off. I find that I only need to use about one half the spray I used to use when I sprayed into a cake pan.

That is what I do when loading 9mm.

4-500 cases into a bag, 2 quick sprays, seal and toss...I take a look to see if it needs another quick spritz and toss. I pour them out into a plastic pan...cover from a ice cream cake...shake it around to get most of them standing (mouth up) and let them set for about 10 mins before loading. Easily reduces sizing effort by over 50%.

 

[JimKirk]

A big ball bearing would be perfect, and I think i still have one. Great idea.

That's my game plan, seems like many people do it that way. Although they just talk about putting them in the bag and spraying the mix. Your way sounds superior. Use less lube, get less inside cases.

What would be wrong with ... a Cat's eye, a Oxblood, a Bumblebee or maybe even a Turtle ??

 

[GW Staar]

or a Clearie..... Just happen to have a bag of those left over from my APS loader mod......good idea. I have some brew to mix up myself and no steel bearings in sight. Thanks.

 

[Walkalong]

What would be wrong with ... a Cat's eye, a Oxblood, a Bumblebee or maybe even a Turtle ??

Nothing at all, and it would look cool too.

 

[Dudedog]

What would be wrong with ... a Cat's eye, a Oxblood, a Bumblebee or maybe even a Turtle

Off thread but I wonder 20 years from now if the kids from today would have any idea what you are talking about.
Us old guys do if we haven't lost our marbles.

edit oppsss got the close quote at the end.

 

[GW Staar]

So is "boulder and cleary" just local terms or is that part of the "talk," nationally, marble-wise?

And back to the subject, Walkalong, is the jury still out or have you found the motherlode?

I have this huge supply (for me) of .40 S&W cases picked up from a police shooting range......all slightly glocked, being that's what the local Blue were using and it was before Glock improved their case support. I've been sitting on it for 5 years. Last night I decided to process this stuff for reloading.....most of it is from Winchester white box practice FMJ rounds.

So since I have my RCBS Summit setup next to my Rock Chucker, I thought I could use them together......Lee decapper in the Summit and the original steel Redding GRx bulge remover in the Rock Chucker. Using them together is way faster than either alone, as you can imagine. (Hint for those who have a GRx, but don't want to spend money on a case catching bottle. I just cut a circle in the plastic lid of a clear plastic nut jar the diameter of the inside die threads of the GRx and just screwed the lid on the GRx threads sticking out top of the press)

I used Imperial Wax on two fingers and the thumb and inserted the cases in the Summit, decapped, inserted in the R.C. and pushed it through the GRx into the jar........400 times! Okay it didn't take that long....maybe 90 minutes.... Oh hell it is too long! I'm old and cranky when it comes to 90 minutes of repetition.

I'm thinking the bottle neck is the Imperial lube.......I'm about to try the H.M. brew in a plastic bag trick tonight.......let you know how it turns out!

When I get done, the cases will go to the Thumlers with Lemishine, ss pins, and Dawn .....speaking of motherlodes..... actually the first batch of Winchester I did yesterday will be started today. My tired eyes love bling!

 

[JimKirk]

GW .... I load the 357 SIG ... This is my "process"

I put about 150/200 brass( that also were police range pick up with just a hint of "Glocked" ...) into a gallon zip lock bag I spray about four sprays of the 1/12 home made lanolin/Heet mix .... I roll the brass around for a short time ... then dump in a cardboard shallow box about 2" deep . In the winter I put a heat lamp over the box to speed up the dry ... during the summer I use a small fan...

I then use a Redding 40 S&W G-Rx die (mine is steel) ....I then use the RCBS 357 SIG die(steel also) ...I don't re-spray as there is enough lube on the neck as it has not been touched by the Rx ... the lower "40" is almost sized so it only is lightly sized by the RCBS and there is also enough lube for that too. ...

I tumble any lube off with a quick tumble in corn cob....

Oh ...I use the heat lamp to warm my mixture in the spray bottle .... an Yes it is warped just like Walk along ... but on two side s !!!

 

[GW Staar]

Thanks Jim.....interesting post, and reaaaal close to what I did, so I can add testimony to "your process".

GW .... I load the 357 SIG ... This is my "process"

I put about 150/200 brass( that also were police range pick up with just a hint of "Glocked" ...) into a gallon zip lock bag I spray about four sprays of the 1/12 home made lanolin/Heet mix .... I roll the brass around for a short time ... then dump in a cardboard shallow box about 2" deep . In the winter I put a heat lamp over the box to speed up the dry ... during the summer I use a small fan...

I then use a Redding 40 S&W G-Rx die (mine is steel) ....I then use the RCBS 357 SIG die(steel also) ...I don't re-spray as there is enough lube on the neck as it has not been touched by the Rx ... the lower "40" is almost sized so it only is lightly sized by the RCBS and there is also enough lube for that too. ...

I tumble any lube off with a quick tumble in corn cob....

Oh ...I use the heat lamp to warm my mixture in the spray bottle .... an Yes it is warped just like Walk along ... but on two side s !!!

I tried the bag trick, then the shallow box. ( I use the remains of grocery store box-bottoms so cut by by stockers...in rich supply behind any grocery store. I also use them in my food storage for canned goods....keeps them organized and neat.) Not really sure the bag is necessary except to control what gets sprayed....usually I just spread the brass in the shallow box, go outside, spray a couple of times, roll/agitate, then spray some more.......and I've just air-dried....so that means....eating supper then returning to the project after. (I say usually.....I have used this stuff before just not with a GRx case prep operation...time was cut a third at least from using Imperial.)

Thanks for the heads up....I spelled the Redding GRx die wrong...fixed it. I also bought the steel die....the carbide version wasn't made in that day, and too expensive for me anyway. NOW, with the Homemade spraylube I don't feel the least deprived......works like a champ Walkalong! I made a quick video, but I won't highjack with it here....new 'lil thread for that coming.

So, Is it worth the trouble of making Lanolin/Alcohol spray lube?

YES! My own observations on the Home-Made Lanolin Lube:

• Wonderful! For most uses! and Very convenient as my video will show. (no extra steps lubing while cranking presses...helps a lot with the tedium of case prep.)
• There is a window when it works best....and that's after the alcohol evaporates. But don't wait hours because the lanolin gets stiff. (It's not as slick and slidey when it hardens.)
  
• My experience with the lanolin/alcohol mix didn't require agitation with bearings or marbles. Shaking, sitting for a few, shaking one more, was all it took for me.....but then my ingredients were stored at 70 degrees. Thinking about it maybe more....twas mixed in our New Mexico summer, maybe 75 inside.
  
• Also IME, neither lanolin or Imperial are as slick as STP or RCBS Lube pad lube....discovered by trying to size blinged MG .762 LC brass. Only the latter two made it possible without sticking a case body in the sizer, or a deforming stretch at best, pulling it out. That, after polishing said brass with S.S. pins, lemishine, and Dawn in a Thumblers. Can't say if it would have been worse or better before the bling. That said, sizing MG brass is a special case and both Imperial and Lanolin-Brew are fine for anything else I've come across....and you can't beat L.B.'s convenience.
• Or if you have more money than time, buy Dillon's Spraylube. Same thing only more $.

 

[ddc]

The following is only with respect to 9mm reloading and a gun that is cleaned approx. every 500/1000 rounds...can't speak to any other scenario.

I mix at about 15:1 alcohol/lanolin.

Initially I dumped my loaded rounds back into the vibratory cleaner, corn cob media, for about 5 minutes which seemed to be plenty of time to remove the residual lubricant.
More recently when in a hurry I just took a container of about 200 rounds to the range for practice without cleaning them. Followed that up with another 500 uncleaned rounds without issue.

Since then I've run hundreds if not thousands of similar rounds through my guns without incident. From now on until I run into a problem I'm not going to bother with removing residual lubricant assuming I'm cleaning my gun on a fairly regular basis.

I have noticed that the longer the lubricant stays on the case the more sticky it seems to be to the touch. Since none of my ammo exists for more than about a week I'm not going to worry about it.
If I was storing it longer term I would probably run it through the tumbler.

I have wondered if this may be a function of the ration of alcohol/lanolin. Below a certain level removing the residual is not all that necessary; above a level it may be necessary if you shoot more than X number or rounds before cleaning or leave them lying around for awhile.

I'm interested in your thoughts, thanks. Don.

 

[JimKirk]

I noticed the slightly sticky feeling after an extended time ... that is why I give a short tumble in the thumbler...
With the 357 SIG and it's really short neck.... I don't really want lube inside the neck as it could lessen neck tension .... I failed to update my "process" that I posted above ....I now do the four sprays in the zip lock bag before adding the brass .... I find that there is less lube getting inside the neck compared to spraying after adding the brass .... Sure "some" lube manages to in ...

I do batch reloading .... Unless I have to have a load right then ... I put different stages of brass in those plastic cat treat jars ... along with a note telling me where I am at in my process ... right now I have a couple thousand primed and ready for powder and bullets ... That reminds me I need to place an order for some bullets ....

 

[Muddydogs]

After seeing this post last week I remembered I had purchased all the stuff to make my own lube about a year ago and since my last bottle of RCBS case slick was having spray pump issues I decided it was time to mix some up.
I'd tell you the proportions I used but I'm not sure, you see my spray bottle doesn't have ounce marks on it so I pulled out my handy dandy scale and figure I would weight the portions. Well I weighed the alcohol then added the lanolin and realized I barely used any lanolin then looking at the alcohol bottle I realized there was a lot left in the 16 oz bottle considering I just weight out 12 oz, upon further inspection I realized my scale was on Grams. I was able to dump off the alcohol as it hadn't mix with the lanolin then dump out most of the lanolin, re tare my scale and go at it again. I'm close to 12 to 1, probably a little over.
Sized some 7mm Rem Mag brass this morning using the home brew and I have to say its a lot better then the Case Slick I was using plus way easeir to spray inside a ziplock bag then the stupid pump sprayer was.

 

[FROGO207]

Muddydogs Welcome to the dark side! I betcha you never go back. As I said in an earlier post this time I am going to try wire pulling lube as when it dries it is not sticky and wipes off with ease--at least on plastic wire coatings at work. I will keep all informed when I have had a chance to evaluate my trial.

 

[Point_Taken]

So I saw some people touch on the subject, but is the main motivation for making your own lube a cost or quality motivation? Is it one or the other, or both?

 

[Muddydogs]

So I saw some people touch on the subject, but is the main motivation for making your own lube a cost or quality motivation? Is it one or the other, or both?

Making your own is way cheaper. 4 oz of RCBS Case Slick is $9.40. 16 oz of 99% alcohol is $9.32 and 4 oz of lanolin is $9.00 so say you use 1.5 ounces of lanolin in 16 oz of alcohol your at $11.57 for 16 oz or $.72 per ounce compared to $2.35 per oz for Case Slick. I just pulled prices from Amazon and Midway so the items might be cheaper elsewhere.

From my limited use the home brew is as good if not better then the other products I have used plus the formula can be adjusted to your individual needs.

 

[Laphroaig]

So I saw some people touch on the subject, but is the main motivation for making your own lube a cost or quality motivation? Is it one or the other, or both?

A couple of posters have touched on the fact that lanolin gets a little bit hard when it dries. I like to wipe the lube off each case with a paper towel or rag when I load single stage, and I've found it to be noticeably more difficult with lanolin based lubes.

I'm very cost conscious with my loading components, but I splurge and use One Shot as my lube. A can lasts me more than a year, so it can't be costing me much on a per round basis. Lanolin is a great lube, just a little too sticky for my liking.

 

[Walkalong]

but is the main motivation for making your own lube a cost or quality motivation?

For me it is the lure of being easier.

 

[Walkalong]

I'm very cost conscious with my loading components, but I splurge and use One Shot as my lube. A can lasts me more than a year, so it can't be costing me much on a per round basis. Lanolin is a great lube, just a little too sticky for my liking.

Interesting.

 

[Muddydogs]

A couple of posters have touched on the fact that lanolin gets a little bit hard when it dries. I like to wipe the lube off each case with a paper towel or rag when I load single stage, and I've found it to be noticeably more difficult with lanolin based lubes.

I'm very cost conscious with my loading components, but I splurge and use One Shot as my lube. A can lasts me more than a year, so it can't be costing me much on a per round basis. Lanolin is a great lube, just a little too sticky for my liking.

I didn't think the home brew was as sticky as Case Slick or a slimy as Imperial sizing wax. I didn't give my cases time to dry as they were sized and tumbled in short order.

 

[Laphroaig]

I agree if you were to tumble it off it after sizing it probably wouldn't be an issue. But I tumble before sizing so for me it would add an extra step. I dunno, I just think that One Shot is a great product. I have even loaded .223 on my Dillon and just left it on. Its wasn't that messy IMO.

 

[Muddydogs]

Why tumble before sizing unless its dirty range brass? Any of my brass I shoot even from an auto and picked up off the ground gets sized then tumbled as its not dirty enough to matter to the sizer die. Seems like wiping the lube off cases after sizing is more work the tumbling twice, heck tumble for 30 minutes after loading to get the lube off.

 

[cougar1717]

Tried it. Random thoughts - The more ubiquitous 91% alcohol works also. 10:1 is too concentrated IMO, as others have noted. I'll let you figure out how thin is too thin, though. If using it for bottleneck brass, you will either have to spray it so that it does not get on the shoulder or clean your dies when you see slight shoulder deformation. The latter is easier IMHO. Of course it's sticky but it tumbles off. It does make it a little more difficult if you trim/chamfer right after sizing.

 

[GW Staar]

(1)Why tumble before sizing unless its dirty range brass? Any of my brass I shoot even from an auto and picked up off the ground gets sized then tumbled as its not dirty enough to matter to the sizer die. (2)Seems like wiping the lube off cases after sizing is more work the tumbling twice, heck tumble for 30 minutes after loading to get the lube off.

(1) Because I'm addicted to bling!.....hell at my age I deserve ice cream when I want it and bling when I can get it. I can see shiny cases and that's more than I can say about targets without a lot of help.
(2) Exactly right, the dry tumbler filled with clean pure corncob works fast and easy with no effort from worn out hands.

So, I see you half way....that's not so bad....
So what's the consensus....does it take 10 minutes, 20 minutes or 30 minutes? I've done 30 like Muddydogs, but I'm wondering if that's necessary.....anybody?

 

[Walkalong]

For tumbling off lube I use raw media and usually throw it in there for 30 to 60 minutes.

Tumble with polish to clean/polish them for the sizer.
Size.
Tumble to remove lube if applicable.
Trim, Chamfer, Deburr if applicable.
Tumble again.

I don't mind a tumble with the brass. Wiping off case lube is a PIA IMHO.

 

[Laphroaig]

Wiping off case lube is a PIA IMHO.

I said the same thing the few times I used a lanolin/alcohol mix. Fortunately the nozzle of my spray bottle got clogged (for the second time) and I never had to use it again.

 

[Walkalong]

So you like the One Shot better? The one with the bad rep?