home recipes for lubes and cleaners

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smokeeater

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With commercial bullet lubes and cleaners becoming more costly, does anyone have a home recipe for either lubes or cleaners that they actually use? I read all kinds of suggestions for using peroxide, crisco, olive oil, beeswax, etc., but don't know if these are really any good. I have been checking on the availability of some of the ingredients such as beeswax or tallow, and they are not that easy to find, or are more expensive than buying the commercial products such as bore butter.
 
crisco for covering the balls, Dawn dish detergent for cleaning after shooting.

I don't mess with felt wads between powder and ball
 
after shooting. Blue Windex on nipples, down the barrel and in each cylinder, then good bath in Hot soapy water using dish detergent for soap. Hot rinse, Dry off, blow air in all crevices, apply olive oil for lube. Never have rust. Between the powder and ball I use a lube ill made up of equal parts of bees wax, tallow and parafin melted together. That also makes a good moustashe wax.
 
after shooting. Blue Windex on nipples, down the barrel and in each cylinder, then good bath in Hot soapy water using dish detergent for soap. Hot rinse,

how does this improve on what I do?

i am sure your mustache looks better
 
Smokeeater, It's really not that complicated. Crisco for grease, oliveoil for oil. Dishsoap to clean. As for a between shot swab you can use water with a little dishsoap and you can add some alcohol to keep it from freezing in the winter or you can think about lemons and just use spit on a patch. While hunting I prefer spit, I don't have to carry anything extra. I had a wounded deer try to trample me once, I had to push him off with the butt of my gun. Scared me so I couldn't make spit for an hour.
 
Im283, if you did use felt wads would you still use the Crisco to cover the balls to prevent multiple firing or will the wads prevent that?

When I owned a 1858 Old Army Remington Uberti in the 80's I always used Crisco with no wad but only because I was told not to use a wad with this pistol. Now that I have this 1860 Army Colt Pietta I'd like to get by using wads without the Crisco. Is that advisable or is the protection of firing all cylinders at once still needed since I will be using a "treated" wad?

I can live with or without the Crisco but it would make much less of a mess not using it.
 
Tru Griff, It has been determined as true that chain fires originate at the other side of the cylinder. Loose #11 caps or caps that fall off will be more likely to cause chain fire. If the ball is properly oversized and you get a waste ring of lead when you seat and size the ball this should give an excellent seal for the chamber. Some people who don't want to use lubed wads will use crisco to top off the chambers to soften the fouling. Dwave has been doing an experiment using lubed felt wads and has shot 100 rounds without a swab out.
 
Poncho, thanks for the detailed information. I've always assumed the Crisco was to prevent chain firing as that is what I've read in the past. Never have heard it was due to loose fitting caps even though that sounds possible.

After shooting the 1858 Remmy at night I would have to say there is still a great chance of chain firing from the front of the cylinder after seeing just how much fire/blast comes out around the cylinder itself. Like you say if the ball gets a tight fit then you get a good seal and this should stop any fire from reaching other chambers.

This is where I really get confused. I noticed on the 1858 Old Army Remmy I had it said to use the .454? ball for the 44 but on other year models of the Remmy and other 44's it says to use the .451? ball. I think i have the size correct that was stated. I know zilch about ammo size spec's. Anyhow, I would always get a waste ring of lead when loading the 1858. This 1860 Army Colt says to use the smaller of the two. Are both the 44 chambers different sizes or is this just a recomendation and I can get by using a .454 instead?
I havent shot the Colt yet so no idea if I'm getting a waste ring already with the smaller ball.

"Dwave has been doing an experiment using lubed felt wads and has shot 100 rounds without a swab out." Don't they already make these to purchase?
 
The Remington 1858 New Model .44 caliber and the Uberti .44 caliber Cattleman'e Carbine will shave a nice ring of lead using the .451. Both of them will also shave a nice ring of lead with the .454. Use which ever one you please. (all things being equal and your piece is in good condition and the chambers are not all wallowed out)
Stay away from the .457. They will fire it but you have to use extra force in order to seat the ball and and sooner or later (sooner probably) the extra force and stress you will be subjecting the loading lever to will result in damage to the piece...
 
Pancho and Tru Griff -

I have to step in here. Pancho is absolutely correct in his description of a major cause of chain fires. Loose/missing caps are certainly a recipe for risk of that happening.

However, I think his characterization, "it has been established as true that chain fires originate at the other side of the cylinder" is too strong. It suggests that a chain fire cannot happen by flashover between chamber mouths, and that simply isn't the case. It can happen. Just as the back end of the cylinder is susceptible to leaks from loose/missing caps, so is the chamber mouth due to ill fitting bullets and lack of either a felt wad or grease over the ball. The physics are the same - allow flash or sparks to reach into the chamber and you can get a chainfire from either end.

I'm not trying to cause another debate here - I just want to point out that we need to pay attention to both ends of the cylinder. Whether you believe that one entrance is more prone to leaking than the other is not the debate I want to engage.

Now, as to wads vs grease: there are pros and cons to each. Frankly, my opinion is that a good cylinder mouth seal is obtained by correctly sizing the ball/minie bullet, and the wad/grease is 'icing' for the purpose of sealing the chamber. It is good practice to use one or the other for the purpose of keeping fouling soft, and you get the extra chainfire protection for free (whether or not you think you need it).
 
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I find hot soapy water hard to beat for cleaning chores.
I use a grease that we had in the tool room called "Old Bull" for lubing Maxi-Balls and as an over chamber grease in revolvers.
For round ball patches I still use genuine bear grease rendered from a bruin that a friend shot some years ago.
Zeke
 
You can make oils from animal fats you eat. All you need to do is drain the grease and oil in the fry pan into a clean tin can from what ever veggies you also ate.

If you had lamb for sunday dinner and there was about 6 people eatting, save the baking drippings from the oven, save the meat scrapes from the dishes, and add these to the tin can.

I pick lamb /sheep because it is already low in salts..

You can do this with steak...

When you decide you might have enough, to pan fry more, do it slow, to get all the grease and oils to flow from the meat.

Add ALL of that into a sauce pan of about 2 qts measure and add about 3/4er's qt of water and boil it say 10 minutes and stop.

Set the pan to cool in a cold as possible place and wait.

Once cooled you will find the oil on top of the grease. The oil will be clear liquid, so spoon it off into a small container you plan to keep the oil in.

With a pancake flipper remove the grease cake, and put that in a closed container, like the sandwich boxes that seal.

If you like you can reheat the grease again to get the water to evaporate, and just pour hot liquid grease into a metalic contain since it will be too hot for a plastic dish.

What is on the bottom of the boiling pan is junk. Just trash.

You now have made light oil in a high quality.
You have also made grease.

Bee's wax is going to get more expensive, as is honey, since honey bee's for the last several years are simple dissappearing. That fact is very bad for man kind. Don't believe me seach it.

Still now many sewwing shops carry small blocks of bee's wax. I consider this essential to living no matter what, so get some.

Plain hot water with a little elbow grease is all any BP gun really needs... So long as you can find water, there is no problem.

The residue from burnt BP is water soluable...

This won't make anyone happy, but if you feel the need to use ammonia, err well you pee it, each and everytime you take a whizz..

Eww Yucky.... right... Well if so you just might want to read ALL the lables on foos, cleaning products and leather articals for the word urea..

If yer Brook Brothers jacket stinks like pee in the rain , that is because urea was used in the tanning process. Same thing goes for that leather gun belt and the bowie sheath. Proabably yer boots and many other leather items you own now.

To make lube, you simply mix a bit of oil with some grease, and add wax. melt it, and see once cool is it is to hard, to wet, and add grease or wax untill it is the way you like it cold.

I like mine to not melt in sunshine, but get sticky held between my thumb and finger.

Since I use it patching, wads and other things I like to melt some and soak what ever items I want soaked and with tongs removed them from a tray to cool. Most of the time these are smaller items, so a Altoids tray works well.
 
A 50/50 mix of Bore Butter and beeswax works real well on felt wads, cylinder pins and Sharps bullets.
To clean with I use Simple Green.

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas
 
if you did use felt wads would you still use the Crisco to cover the balls to prevent multiple firing or will the wads prevent that?

YES. last time i went shooting i was using wonder wads between the powder and ball. That was not the problem. Its when your at the range finish one cylinder then go to pour in powder in the other cylinder and some of the powder spills into the cylinder you just finished. Then you repeat. by the time your done there is evidence of powder over all the balls. So you have to use a lube over the balls. only other option would be to put a wad over the balls???????
 
I only pour powder then insert a wonder wad till every cylinder hole is done with this process. THEN I blow out each cylinder hole and then insert the lead balls. This way no evidence of powder is appearing on top.

My recipe for making wads consists of 1/2 part beeswax - 1 part crisco - 1 part parrafin. Just melt contents together and soak 100% wool wads cut with a punch.
 
Mykeal, your right as usual. Never say Never it will get you in trouble. There is a possibility of chain fires occurring at the other end of the chamber.
As for the size of balls for the .44 being .454 or .451. I was given some good advice from Gatefeo some time back that the largest ball you can practically press into the cylinder will give the round more contact with the rifling. Made sense to me so for my .36's I pour and shoot my own .380 balls instead of the suggested .375.
 
I use alcohol inbetween shot to swab the bore.
Use bore butter for lube. If it gets too high I will switch to beeswax and olive oil.
Cleaning I use soap and hot water. Then bore butter afther the barrel is dry.
I use wool wads and slightly oversized balls in my Rem 58. I don't fool with crisco too messy and never had any problem with chain fires.
 
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever tried to punch some wads out of leather, soak them in lube and try them, as just like felt, when leather burns, it leaves only a crumbly charcoal behind.
 
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