Hornady case activated powder drop problems...

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Balrog

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I am using a Hornady LNL progressive press and am having 2 problems with my powder drop.

First, after doing about 10 to 20 rounds, the LNL bushing gets loose and pops out of the press. I have to keep an eye on it about ever 10th round or so and tighten the bushing back into the press. I thought maybe I had a bad bushing, so I swapped it out and still have the problem.

Second, the screws holding the activating arms in the case activated drop linkage tend to loosen up, and the linkage will disconnect from the drop barrel. I have to tight these screws up after about ever 100 rounds to keep this from happening.

Can anything be done to fix these problems?
 
The press works great, it is the powder drop I was asking about, so if you don't have useful information, don't feel obligated to respond.
 
I recently set-up a Uniflow on a Dillon with this linkage. I've loaded only 300 rounds, but no issues with loosening screws. You might try a little blue Loctite.

AFA the bushing, it could be on the larger side of tolerances and the movement of the linkage causes it to work its way out. A last resort would be a setscrew.

Not related, but judging from pix, the Hornady and RCBS linkage are the same; probably made by one company or the other...or neither.
 
Hey Offhand,

As far as I'm concerned, you may say anything you want here. However, besides being flat out wrong in content as well as immature in your attitude, your response provided nothing of value to Balrog's questions and only encourages other immature folks to start the same old child like arguments of who's press is better. Get past the childish stuff.


Hey Balrog,

My L&L AP is one of the first L&L AP presses Hornady made in 1997, and it sounds like my case activated powder dispenser is a bit different than yours.

I don't know what the difference in bushings would be, but a few years ago, it seemed there were several folks who made the same complaint about their bushing coming loose in use. I remembe some folks changed or added rubber O-rings while other folks added teflon tape to the bushings. I may be wrong, but I think some of the bushings at that time were not made properly, and folks who contacted Hornady may have received some replacements. I have not seen anyone complaining of loose bushings for a while now, so I assume whatever the problem was, it was corrected by Hornady. I do know the bushings should lock in place and stay there until you physically turn them back out. Like I said, my press is from 1997, and I am still using the same bushings and have never had to replace any O-rings. I suggest you contact Hornady as well as search past threads if someone else here does not have more definitive information.

As far as you case activated mechanism goes, your description of how it works sounds like Hornady made some changes over the years. Mine has no screws holding the linkage arms together. If you go to Page 13 of the Hornady L&L AP user manual, two drawings of the case activated linkage and powder measure are there:

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/manuals-current/metalic-reloading/LNL_AP.pdf

In the larger drawing, the upper body is shown seperate from the lower body, and you can see a single linkage arm that connects the two bodies. Near the bottom of that arm is a single cut that appears to slide into a screw knob on the lower body, and I assume that the screw know is what is coming loose for you.

My older case activated system has similar upper and lower bodies, but the connecting linkage arm works differently. First, my arm has two cuts near the bottom, and either one can be used depending on how you want to adjust the mechanism. Secondly, there is no thumb screw on the lower body of mine. There is just a pin with a mushroom head. I slide one of cuts on the linkage arm onto the pin, and it stays there without any screw holder. Obviously the newer ones are different than my original one. Again, I suggest you contact Hornady about the problem.

My L&L AP from 1997 is all original parts other than one shell plate case retainer spring that was replaced, and it works perfectly. I know Hornady has made some changes to fix some things that people have complained about, but those changes should work as well or better than my original parts. If your bushing and your case activated powder measure are not working properly, call Hornady and explain the problem. I cannot believe the will not be able to fix it for you.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
 
Second, the screws holding the activating arms in the case activated drop linkage tend to loosen up, and the linkage will disconnect from the drop barrel. I have to tight these screws up after about ever 100 rounds to keep this from happening.

I had the same problem. I loaded a couple of squib loads before I caught the problem.

I put blue Locktite on the all the screws in the linkage. After several loading sessions, the linkage is still tight and working.
 
Call Hornady and they will make it right. Don't struggle on your own. I was completely green setting up the press, read and reread the manual a zillion times, spilled powder everywhere, etc. I even ruined one of the primer slides by overtightening the nut which holds the primer punch (under the subplate...that is why they say not to overtighten it! The slide gets stuck, and then if you try and force the handle you ruin the primer slide) The nice people at Hornady mailed out the parts pronto, told me the first time is on them.

Different part of the press, I know, but give them a call.
 
I have had the same problem on the bushings. Mine don't seem to come loose as often as yours though. I took off the O-rings and wrapped a layer of tape on it. It has helped. You might try adding more tape than I did. I called Hornady and all they did was send me new O-rings. That didn't help.

On the powder drop problem, if you don't change out the bottom part with different calibers like I do. Then you can use Loc-Tite. That would be the easiest, just rember to use Blue Loc-Tite.

Other than the bushing problem, I love my press.
 
I had the same problems.

Try some teflon tape on the bushing. I tried two O rings but couldn't get it back in. If I had two smaller O rings that might take care of the problem. But the tape will fix it.

The thumb screw was an easy fix, I didn't use loctite but I have a pair of pliers to screw it down after it is thumb tight (not too much but just a little more than your thumb can give it). It marks up the thumb screw a little but the problem goes away (If you put masking tape on the pliers to grip I bet it wouldn't even mark it up). It hasn't come loose since and I make it a habit after every change over.

Then if you use the FCD take out the auto eject wire and eject by hand....defeats some of the functionality but another problem solved....I'm guessing it will still load more than you can shoot....at least I have that problem.

Good luck let us know how it goes.
 
Just give the factory a call. They will probably have a cure for the problem. After all, if it's a common problem they've probably already figured it out from past calls. They might even suggest the blue locktight?
 
I called Hornady. They have a shim that you put between the O ring and the bushing that will put more pressure in the fitting.
 
Balrog, I had the same problem with my Hornady Powder Measure. I tried the teflon tape and that worked for a while, but had to be replaced after removing the measure a few times. My fix was a wrench to tighten the bushing just enough to lightly compress the o-ring. Don't crank down on it until you deform something, but just lightly torque the o-ring. Takes a 1-1/8" open end or an adjustable, so with that large wrench you will have quite a bit of leverage. Worked for me.

I have the same problem you do with the knurled thumb screw on the linkage. I haven't fixed that one yet, but will try blue loc-tite next.

Hope this helps.

Jeff
 
Blue LocTite #242 is rather strong when used on screws smaller than 1/4 inch diameter. You might try green LocTite #290. This will still hold everything together, but allow for much easier dis-assembly if ever needed. 290 is a much better choice for fasteners in the #4, #6 and #8 range.
 
This thread is a few months old but clearly relevant 'cause I have the exact same problem. I just check the tightness of the CAPD by hand every five to ten rounds.

I think I'll try the teflon tape trick on the bushing since I don't usually remove the lower assembly. I do have blue Loctite in stock as well which I may try if the tape isn't effective.

OT but I used blue Loctite on my GP100's crane latch screw because it continually backed out- hasn't moved since- they didn't have the green stuff in the store- oh, well...
 
Hornady has a work-around for the loose bushings. Call them and they'll send you some metal washers.
 
I use a regular expander in station 2, and rigged my own powder drop system on my LNL. That way I don't have to fool with adjusting the bell every time etc. With 5 stations, there is no real need (IMHO) to expand & dump powder in the same operation.

The LNL powder drop system is fairly clever, but I don't like the thought of adjusting the bell every time. (And the time involved to do it) If I used their powder drop, I would still use the regular expanders in the station before it. That way the bell stays consistent, and it takes a couple of seconds to swap the expander out.
 
The problem is simply to fix. Call Hornady. They will send you a very thin metal shim washer; this will fix the problem completely. (Or you can do as I did, and just cut a thin washer from a matchbook cover... which also worked 100%.)

thorn
 
I was thinking of using a Belleville washer of the proper size- though if Hornady offers an equivalent fix I suppose then I should give 'em a buzz...
 
You might try green LocTite #290.
:what: Don't you mean purple loctite? Green is permanent; it's like red except it wicks and penetrate the assembled threads.

Sounds like OP mainly just needs a thicker o-ring on the bushing, or else isn't tightening it all the way.
 
Otto and thorn:
Thanks for the heads up about Hornady's fix to the loosening of the Powder Charging bushing. I called them this morning and they are mailing me the shims. I just bought my press about 3 weeks ago and this has been a problem since I set it up.
thom
 
I hope Hornady treats you better than me. I called Hornady about this, they said they would mail shims, but never did.

Doesnt matter now, I sold my LNL and now have a Dillon 650. I am very pleased with the 650, and have not had to mess with it to keep it running like I had to do with the LNL.
 
Balrog,
Called Hornady on Monday about getting some shims to fix the problem with the powder charger coming loose. I received the shims in the mail yesterday.
that is what I call "A1" customer service.
thom
 
Balrog,
Called Hornady on Monday about getting some shims to fix the problem with the powder charger coming loose. I received the shims in the mail yesterday.
that is what I call "A1" customer service.
thom

My shims never came, so I give them an F-.
 
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