Hornady LNL AP problem with primer feed

Status
Not open for further replies.
The Hornady primer system is driving me absolutely nuts. Because of its unreliablility I do now 2 turns with the brass. First one is depriming and priming nothing more then all the rounds are checked if they have a primer and the primer is in correctly. I'd say roughly 1 out of ten is not that way. Things I've tried:

Polishing the slide, and cleaning like hell. Bend the guiding rod so it picks primer up again. Checked the right side of the tube is down, put some weight on the aluminium tube (that helped with the wrongly inserted ones), replaced spring, replaced slide, replaced Primer seater plug.

I would pay quite a bit of money for the Dillon Primer seating mechanism, in fact I'm considering switching to the blue side altogether because as I live in switzerland and there is no such fancy Hornady warranty here I'v got to buy all the stuff by myself. And swiss prices being more than double the US prices does not help at all.
 
Jake, the only time I was getting flipped primers was when I had the primer feed tube upside down. There is a very small shoulder machined into one eld of the primer feed tube. That end is the bottom.
 
I have two LNL's and I have helped set up two LNL's for buddies. I have found you will have problems if:
1) Primer and slide track not clean and DRY LUBED WITH GRAPHITE
2) Primer tube inserted the wrong way
3) Shround tube too TIGHT. Shroud tube should be loosened about 1/2-3/4 turn
4) Not using "Fibreglass Follower" or brass rod on top of primers.
5) Primer PLUNGER dirty. One grain of powder can foul the plunger.
6) Slide track not adjusted properly
7) Slide track dirty. One grain of powder will foul.

As long as all the above are complete I never have primer problems. And, that's with 4 DIFFERENT LNL PRESSES.
 
Normally when your having trouble picking up primers it's due to alignment. The best way to align it is with the inner and outer tube off so you can see it. If your too short or long your dwell time will be too short for them to drop. And if your using the wrong inner tube (large vs small) they can flip pretty easy. I use a brass pusher rod to keep weight on the primers. I have a small and large spent cap on each end. If you think there is a clearance problem use a piece of paper as a shim under the primer base to elevate it. Paper is normally around 0.003" thick. I had a batch of Wolf primers early on that was slightly tall and the paper shim did the trick. Now if your having seating problems check for brass shavings and spilled powder in the sled slot. You can use canned air or shop vac to clean it out when you pull the sled back. If the powder gets into the seater which make it tall the best way is to take it apart to clean it right.

Once you get it adj correctly it will run trouble free if the sled is kept clean. I have over 25k through mine trouble free.
 
It's been said twice, but worth saying 3 times: Make sure the primer tube is not UPSIDE DOWN. I've seen people do this on more than one occasion, and it will certainly cause problems as the tube will not be mated correctly to the slide assembly.

In nearly 6,000 rounds loaded, I've never had a primer feed upside down even once.

thorn
 
I will simply buy a new primer assembly, new slide, new spring and hope this helps eliminate my problems.

Just for the record:
I really have checked and corrected the things that have been mentioned in this thread and still have issues.
 
It's been said twice, but worth saying 3 times: Make sure the primer tube is not UPSIDE DOWN. I've seen people do this on more than one occasion, and it will certainly cause problems as the tube will not be mated correctly to the slide assembly.

In nearly 6,000 rounds loaded, I've never had a primer feed upside down even once.

thorn
x4 :)
 
This post almost make me what to have another go at priming on the press. I gave up not because of flipped primers but that they were hard to seat or seat completely flush or below. After sizing, hand priming, then loading the rest, life was much easier. I know extra steps, but I'm in no rush. I just want to enjoy loading.
If the primers are not seating deep enough for your liking, take the seater plug out, take it apart and sand the bottom of the nut slightly until you get the plunger to push up further. Mine worked almost enough (all were at least flush but I wanted slightly deeper) so I called Hornady and asked about this and the rep told me that would work just fine and was a good idea. I was glad to hear this since I had already did this.

WARNING!!!! It does not take very much sanding to remove .001"-.003" and that is about all you will probably need to remove.

Be careful with the durn little spring and C clip. Man those things are hard to find if you lose either.
 
Bambam71:
I will simply buy a new primer assembly, new slide, new spring and hope this helps eliminate my problems.

Just for the record:
I really have checked and corrected the things that have been mentioned in this thread and still have issues.

No need to buy a new one, just call Hornady CS and they will send you the parts FREE.

The only way a primer can flip in the sled is if the Inner primer feed tube is not seated (the machined end) in the base or wrong size tube (Large or Small). Remove the outer protective shell to make sure your getting it in place. The Plastic part that fits in between the inner and outer must be in place or the inner will come loose, then you will have a big mess.
 
Ok, then I will say it again :)

I have, repeat have, repeat HAVE checked that the the tube is the right side in. I know that the tube has one plain normal side and one side with a tiny narrower ring around it. I have also polished the slide so there are no burrows that could cause any problem. One thing I noticed: When I have the thing apart an the tube in, the tube is not flush with the bottom of whats called "Primer body" here on page 10. It is still a tiny bit recessed, like 1mm. I wonder if thats one part of the problem. Another one might be that I've bend my timing wire several times to adjust for problems. Maybe its crooked in a way now that also adds to the problems (although not the primer flipping one).

Lets see if a new assembly can help. And yes, I'll have to buy it as I don't live in the US and I doubt they will send parts to switzerland. Or am I really wrong here?
 
Last edited:
The timing wire must be straight at the top where it picks up the primers. This impacts the dwell time.

If the inner primer tube is not setting down all the way you have located the problem. Either the primer body base is not machined right or tube out. Since you should have another tube in a different size see if it will sit down. If not I would see if you can locate a machine shop and bore it to the proper depth. My tubes only have about 0.050" relief cut. I can measure the body later this afternoon for you.
 
I don't want anyone to think I'm LnL bashing but I have to ask. What is going on with Hornady? I've never seen so many priming complaints from owners until the last 2 years.

Two friends have purchased these presses and won't even use the press to seat primers. They are resizing and priming on single stage presses and then using their LnL. To me that seems like a waste of time. If I couldn't rely on the press for all operations I'd probably sell it and get something else.

I own a Dillon. The only time I ever had a priming problem was when I first got the press and mounted it on the bench used for my single stage. I learned a lesson very quickly that a progressive press requires a very firm mounting. My bench would let the press move causing lots of flipped primers. My next attempt at a new bench had it mounted through the wall and to the floor. The press no longer moved and my primer problems went away.

My next lesson was keeping everything clean. The dirt from the spent primers would eventually cause priming problems too. I assume the 2 problems I had would apply to any progressive.

I have nothing against the LnL and if I ever had the chance I'd get one. But I'm wondering why so many priming problems.
 
Last edited:
I finally stripped the priming system from my LNL, had enough.
I either prime by hand or on my Lee Cast turret--I don't cuss anymore.
Anyway, that's my story.
Floyd
 
Hey folks,

Joed just posted about all the priming problems owners of the Hornady Lock and Load presses have been reporting in the last two years. He also mentions two of his friends who prime on a single stage and then use their Lock and Load presses to finish. He then notes that if he could not rely on the press for all operations, he would sell it and get something else.

I agree with Joed that I would get rid of a press if I could not get it to work in a reliable fashion. I would point out, however, that problems with seating primers have been a complaint from both Dillon and Hornady press owners from the time they first introduced progressive presses. I have always maintained that almost all priming problems are due to operator error rather than equipment failure. No progressive press can be operated properly if the operator does not understand the mechanical operation and is not willing and able to study and learn the functioning of the press and its many parts. I suspect that most of the folks who have continuous priming problems are probably the type of folks who are not willing to learn about the mechanics of the press and simply want to get out to the range and blast away.

Like I mentioned in an earlier post, I am unfamiliar with the priming systems on Hornady L&L presses in the last five or even more years. My L&L was one of the first 1500 presses made when they first came out in 1997, and the only part I have ever replaced in nearly 15 years was the spring around the shell plate. That's not too bad for any progressive press.

My priming system certainly looks different than the system used today and shown in Jake's pictures, but it seems to use the same principles of a sliding primer shuttle that moves back and forth on a cam rod as the handle moves up and down. I do not know exactly what Hornady had done to change the priming system parts, but I cannot believe they made it worse as the years went by. Mine works fine, and I would think new presses would work even better. I think the only part of the problem that may have stayed the same is the problem with operator error.

The only thing I have added to my priming system is to use a wood dowel to sit on the primers in the tube for a little weight. Any other problems I have had with the priming operation were either adjustment related or cleaning related. That's it. Nothing else.

If I have to change from one primer size to another, I know it is going to take me just a few minutes to change the parts, but it may take me ten minutes more to get the shuttle adjusted to slide properly. Once you are familiar with the press and know what is happening with its mechanics, you can "feel" what is going on and quickly make an adjustment that will allow you to continue production.

The only other problem I came across with priming is related to dirt or other fouling in the shuttle raceway. If I start with a clean raceway and put some graphite or other dry lubricant in the track, I know the press will function properly until I do something wrong. If you happen to spill some powder in the mechanism, you can expect the press will have a stoppage. That is also true for a Dillon or any other progressive press. You have to keep them clean - it is as simple as that.

Once I started using a wood dowel sitting on the primers in the primer tube, I never had any problems with primers flipping upside down. My wood dowels are marked to show how many primers are left in the tube, and I usually refill the tube when there is only one or two in the tube. With my wood dowels, the last primer in the tube may or may not fall properly into the shuttle so I refill before the last one. I see some folks use a brass rod and competely empty their primers properly. I suspect the difference in results is due to the brass rods being heavier than my wood dowels.

For those who are unable or unwilling to learn and maintain the mechanical functioning and requirements of a progressive press (any brand), my advice is to not waste your time with one. They are not for everybody. There are, however, many thousands of reloaders who do manage to use and maintain progressive presses as they were designed to be used. For me, I like my L&L press better than the Dillon 650, but they all require proper mechanical skills, knowledge, and maintenance by their operators if they are to function properly.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
 
Dave, Well said.

You need to understand the mechanical side of things in order to adjust it. One of the reason I push to check the alignment of the sled to the tubes. If off the dwell time for primers to fall may be too short. Bending rods from original shape/design is not good either. In the 4 yrs I have own mine I have never had to deal with flipped primers. There is just not enough room for this to happen if everything is within mfg spec. I had primer stick in the tube when low, the reason I use a brass push rod. With the primer feed base and tube in place there is only 0.025" gap, not enough for them to flip.

The biggest complaint I had with my LNL was the Wire round ejector. Worked ok for large base but not small base rounds like the 9mm. Once I upgraded to the EzEject all is good after I polished the contact area.
 
The only other problem I came across with priming is related to dirt or other fouling in the shuttle raceway. If I start with a clean raceway and put some graphite or other dry lubricant in the track, I know the press will function properly until I do something wrong. If you happen to spill some powder in the mechanism, you can expect the press will have a stoppage. That is also true for a Dillon or any other progressive press. You have to keep them clean - it is as simple as that.

I couldn't agree with you more on this subject. I've found 2 areas that cause trouble with the Dillon presses. #1, the press better be mounted well or I guarantee priming problems. #2, dirt and powder causing the slide to stick.

I believe those problems will affect any progressive regardless of brand. On the Dillon presses I generally disassemble after about 1000 rounds and thoroughly clean under the shell plate and all parts associated with priming. I use graphite on the slide as I feel oil would only attract dirt.

Maybe Dave has something on the mechanical aspects. My friends that are priming off the press don't impress me mechanically.
 
My priming system certainly looks different than the system used today and shown in Jake's pictures, but it seems to use the same principles of a sliding primer shuttle that moves back and forth on a cam rod as the handle moves up and down. I do not know exactly what Hornady had done to change the priming system parts, but I cannot believe they made it worse as the years went by

I can. Not a knock against Hornady, as I hope every American gun-related company stays in business, but if they found a way to save money you can bet they at least tried it.

-StaTiK-
 
Hey StaTiK,

I think you are wrong about Hornady saving money in the changes they have made to the L&L system. Looking at the new EZ-Ject system, it is obvious that the upgrade has to cost more than the original system. While I have not seen anything but pictures of the new priming system, it certainly looks like it, too, adds cost to the final product. And, no, I did not upgrade to the EZ-Ject system or anything else. Mine is all original with only a shell plate spring replacement.

Neither the Dillon 650 nor the Hornady L&L is a cheaply made product. They are both well made machines that are complex in all the different functions they perform with each cycle of the handle.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
 
Hey Seedtick,

Mr. Wile? Sir??

Has somebody around here been telling folks of my advanced years? After reading that, I don't know whether to thank you for being civil and gentlemanly, or to just sink deeper into depression at the thought of getting older. In any case, it was kind of you to acknowledge me. Thank you.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
 
Hey StaTiK,

I think you are wrong about Hornady saving money in the changes they have made to the L&L system. Looking at the new EZ-Ject system, it is obvious that the upgrade has to cost more than the original system. While I have not seen anything but pictures of the new priming system, it certainly looks like it, too, adds cost to the final product. And, no, I did not upgrade to the EZ-Ject system or anything else. Mine is all original with only a shell plate spring replacement.

Neither the Dillon 650 nor the Hornady L&L is a cheaply made product. They are both well made machines that are complex in all the different functions they perform with each cycle of the handle.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Oh I didn't say that the Hornady is cheaply made or that they skimped on the EZ-ject (or any part). I was just saying that history has shown thousands of instances where "new and improved" features actually weren't. No offense intended.

-StaTiK-
 
Hey StaTiK,

No offense taken by me in your comments, and no offense was intended by me in my comments to you. I think you are correct that “new and improved” is not always what it is cracked up to be. Specifically in the case of the Hornady L&L, however, I think Hornady’s “improvements” truly were made to respond to the needs and complaints of the customers. And I don’t think these changes lowered the cost of the product either - indeed, I think they added to the cost of the press.

From the time Dillon and Hornady first produced progressive presses, there have been folks who have complained about various things, but the priming system has been the biggest complaint from the start. The reason the priming system is at the top of the list is because it is the most complex series of operations competed in the cycle of the press handle. A lot of things have to work just right if the priming system is to function properly, and I suspect that a lot of the folks who are never able to solve their problems with the priming system are either incapable of, or unwilling to study and understand the mechanical processes that are taking place in the priming function.

Some folks also complained about the Hornady ejection spring not working, and Hornady’s response was to come out with the “EZ-Ject” system. Of course the EZ-Ject system also happens to facilitate an auto case loader upgrade which means more sales, and it also seems to require old shell plates to be modified at some cost to the customer.

I was never interested in an auto case feeder nor an auto bullet feeder. A friend of mine has the case feeder, and I cannot stand the noise it makes. I never saw a bullet feeder in person, but I guess I am just too old fashioned to appreciate case and bullet feeders. One might then argue that I am too old to appreciate a progressive press, but I have to tell you that I was completely fascinated by all the mechanical features on progressive presses when I first saw them.

My original spring wire ejection system was also never a problem for me, and I do load 9mm Parabellum and 9mm Makarov which seems to be a problem caliber for some folks. In my case, I suspect I may not have the same problem since I never have a die in the 5th station. I do not use a powder checking die, and I also seat and crimp with the same die. I have never found a need for any secondary crimping die. If I had to use the 5th station, I might also find it beneficial to upgrade to the EZ-Ject system, but the idea of having to pay Hornady to re-machine my old shell plates would really tick me off.

I do not do much shooting any more. In the past five years I have found it more and more of a problem to get my stuff together and go out to the gun club. To tell the truth, I think I would rather load ammunition and have someone else do the shooting. I know it is supposed to be “illegal” to make ammunition for other folks without a licence, but at my age I just don’t think I would mind being an outlaw in that regard. This past August I had a public auction where I sold over 45 of the firearms I have bought over the years. I had not been shooting much, and my children and grandchildren have no interest in shooting and reloading, so I thought I would sell most of my stuff and keep the money for my wife and me. I also have a lot of reloading equipment to sell including progressive and single stage metallic and shotshell presses. I guess I will sell my progressive stuff and keep my old RockChucker for metallic and my MEC Sizemasters for 12 and 16 shotshell.

I really have enjoyed reloading for the past 50 some years. As far as I am concerned, it beat the heck out of golf and tennis hands down.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
 
Just a quick note. I preprimed today several hundred 357 Magnums without a single flipped primer nor a single "no primer". This would lead to the impression that there is indeed something wrong with the tube or the large slide or both.
 
I have not had any problems with primer feeding on either of my 2 AP presses. However, if I did have trouble, I would call Hornady and ask for help, If they could not solve the problem over the phone, I would ask that they have the press shipped back to them so the techs could properly repair and return to me.
 
Since you have it isolated to the LP system. Check to see if the turned end is the same size (OD) as the small. If this is slightly over size you will have an excessive gap between the sled and base.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top