Hornady Powder Measure Variability

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mobiusnc

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Hi All,

I just received my LNL in the mail Friday and I have been slowly setting up my workbench and press this weekend. I'm using it one stage at a time for now since it's my first press (I've used a single stage but never owned one).

I'm having some troubles with the Powder measure. The loads dropped seem to be all over the place. I set it up for 4.4 grains. Then running it 10 times I'm getting 4.0 to 4.9 grains (Bullseye powder). I'm assuming this is not normal?

I honestly don't have a lot of confidence in the RCBS RC-130 scale I bought but I hope it's not that bad.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

mobiusnc
 
Make sure you use a consistent motion each time, it can throw things off a bit if you vary how quick you operate the handle. Also be sure to give the measuring cylinder enough time to fill. I don't have that measure, but I use a RCBS Uniflow which is very similar. When I lift the handle I wait a few seconds before lowering it.

You might also want to get a baffle for your powder measure. It helps keep the throw consistent by minimizing the effect of powder level.

edit: I just looked at Hornady's website, and apparently they make a separate rotor for pistols designed for increased precision when throwing small charges. That might be worth checking into as well.
 
Make sure that you degreased it first according the instructions. Also get the RCBS powder baffle like Halo said and you shouldn't see any more then a 0.1 grain swing with Bullseye.
 
Speaking from experience (I have 2 of them):

1) For small pistol cartridges (in my case, .45ACP), get the pistol rotor and insert for your measure. Using the large rotor and insert for small charges, I never could get it to settle down. Works fine for .44 Magnum, though. I ended up buying another measure to put the pistol rotor in, as changing this part was a pain with the case-activated powder drop mechanism installed (needed when used with my LnL AP).

2) THOROUGHLY clean and degrease the measure. Remove the plastic hopper (if you can.. on one of mine, the thing won't budge), wash the plastic hopper in dishwashing soap and water, rinse, and let drip dry. Don't ask me why, but another member mentioned it and it sure helps. Degrease (or de-oil is more like it, these things ship soaked in some sort of heavy oil) the measure with brake cleaner (the paint will get a little sticky if you get it on it, so be careful)... clean it well.. I ended up spraying, wiping with a clean cloth, and spraying again... used a whole can on two measures, no exaggeration.

3) Use powdered graphite (can be had at hardware and auto parts stores) to lube the measure when you put it back together. I also ran a few drops of graphite through the measure to coat the insides, helps with static cling.

4) wipe down the outside and inside of the plastic hopper with a dryer sheet.. I also just rubber-banded one to the hopper as well (may not be necessary)

After doing all of this, I get drops that are either dead on or + / - .1 grains with ball powder. It takes less time than it sounds like. If you do this stuff and you still have problems, revisit step 2 (I had to myself) ... this oil is tough stuff.

Oh, and don't forget to claim your 100 free bullets... buying the measure entitles you to 100 free bullets... it's one of the reasons I didn't mind getting a 2nd one, it helped to defray the cost. See http://www.hornady.com/get_loaded.php for details.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the great responses, this forum is invaluable.

I cleaned/degreased the measure, but maybe not thoroughly enough. I'll apply all the cleaning and graphite suggestions and give it another shot. If that doesn't help I'll pick up one of the pistol rotors and a baffle.

Quick follow up question: if it turns out I haven't cleaned the measure thoroughly enough will the powder that has been run though it be contaminated?
 
Quick follow up question: if it turns out I haven't cleaned the measure thoroughly enough will the powder that has been run though it be contaminated?
Click to expand...

Theoretically yes. But not significantly. Probably not even measurably. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
mobiusnc said:
Quick follow up question: if it turns out I haven't cleaned the measure thoroughly enough will the powder that has been run though it be contaminated?
Click to expand...

Nope, it's same as RCBS case lube. I have to admit I didn't read the instructions first and loaded up a bunch of cases and was very unhappy with the consistency of the dispense. Then I read about having to clean it first so I did and it has been great ever since. The was no effect to those rounds I loaded before I cleaned it.
 
This topic has been well covered it appears. To add my opinion, I've been using a #55 for all three years of reloading and had great success and consistency with it.

Certain "quirks" exist though. I find that when filling cases with any powder, I get the most consistent drops when I leave the handle down between switching cases, then raise and tap it against the rear stop several times (be consistent on # and firmness) before dropping. I get all my drops +/- 0.1 grain with HP-38 and W-231, Blue Dot, HS-6, SR-4756, and H-110... a wide range of types.

The other thing you'll have to watch from my experience is the level of powder in the column. With H-110 it seems, in mine, to matter little if the thing's full-to-brim with powder or half full. With HP-38 / W231 however, every half inch the column gets lower it seems to lighten the drop about .1 grain.

I've had an RCBS and also used Lee's various auto-droppers for the Turret presses. The lyman is my favorite.

I don't even have that pistol cylinder yet, don't personally see the need but might get it and see if it sharpens things up more even! Good luck!
 
With the Hornady you need the pistol insert for charges less than 10 grs of powder. If you are loading magnum pistol with over 10 grs of powder the standard insert will work fine. I've found my Hornady powder measures to throw very consistent charges with both ball and flake powders as long as you used the correct insert.

The exception is Trail Boss that is so bulky you often need the standard insert to dispense it.
 
I guess I wasn't clear earlier (the OP's response indicated this)... you will need to get the pistol rotor for those light charges (think around 10 grains or less) to work consistently... the cleaning is important, but even a spotless standard rotor and insert gave inconsistent results with the light charges... I had to do both.
 
OK thanks, I'll put in an order for the pistol rotor. How about the micrometer? Is this necessary as well or just for very precise loads?

It's amazing how many "small things" there are to buy with the press. $30 dollars here $30 there, it adds up quickly. I wish Hornady and the other companys would just sell complete pistol kits for common calibers. I guess nobody would buy them if they knew the total price :eek:
 
Throw several charges to settle it down before weighing charges. Then when you use it, do the same, especially if you are using a recorded setting from the last time.

I have a chart with recorded settings for many powders for my Redding 10X. I also record the setting used in my load book. I just dial it back to that setting, run a few charges through it, then weigh a couple to double check myself. Then I load ammo.

If you change lot # on a certain powder, you must redo your chart, unless you get lucky and the powder weighs out the same per volume as the last lot. One more reason to buy in bulk when you have a good load worked out.
 
Pistol rotor inset is great. Don't let the $30 here and there upset you. Look at your cost of ammo from the factory and your ammo from reloading. Load for a year. Your equipment will be paid for and then some. Hornady just completely rebuilt my LnL ram after 83,000 reloads, for the price of shipping it to them.

With the pistol insert I usually am within .1 grain using everything but Trail Boss, and I'm probably not buying it again.
 
Thanks again for the help.

Is the micrometer a necessity, or would I be OK with just the pistol rotor?
 
You're OK with the pistol rotor. It's got marks on it (not that I pay attention). Only takes a minute to change settings. Don't need the micrometer.
 
What Hornady needs is a pistol powder insert that fits the rifle rotor -- so you don't have to take all the linkage apart to switch back and forth between loading for a large cartridge and a small one. There's no reason they couldn't have made it that way.
 
The Micrometer would be nice to get the measure close to correct if you change powder charges, with just a tweak and test with a scale... right now it takes me a while to dial in the standard pistol insert... hmm... I think I just talked myself into getting one of each...:)
 
It's asking too much of a measure made for rifles to drop most pistol charges with any real consistancy. Just a fact of life.
 
It's asking too much of a measure made for rifles to drop most pistol charges with any real consistancy. Just a fact of life.
Click to expand...

But it could be done with just one rotor and multiple inserts. The rifle insert would be just like the one that comes with the measure. The pistol insert would be a thick-walled sleeve with a small diameter measuring chamber in the middle. (one of these days I'll fabricate one)
 
Tested my LNL measure with the std insert a while back. I only use it for 44mag with Vithavori N110.

20.95
20.8
20.7
20.7
20.8
20.8
20.8
20.7
20.7
20.6
20.7
20.8
20.65
20.65
20.65

I could probably do better with a baffle i guess.. Think ill make that my weekend project..




OT but i also tested out my Lee Auto Disc measures with Vith N340

0.95CCU disc. 8.9gr N340 according to Lee (Used for 45LC)

9
9
8.9
8.9
9
9.1
9
9
9
9
9
8.95
9
9
8.9

And the last one
0.66CCU disc. 6.2gr N340 according to Lee (Used for 45Acp)

6.4
6.35
6.3
6.3
6.3
6.3
6.3
6.25
6.2
6.35
6.3
6.25
6.35
6.25
6.4

BB John
 
A couple of fender washers sitting on top of the powder column work as well as a baffle and keep my charges consistent to the very last drop....except Clays, which has a weird habit of fully bridging for about 1 case in every 20 - one almost dead empty, then another 19 or so that are fine. Among pistol powders, for Clays only, I use the rifle rotor and it's fine...pistol rotor for everything else.

Also, for the OP, if you haven't yet, get 2 brass rods from Home Depot or equivalent - one to sit atop large primers and one sized for small. These riding on the primer stack avoid the annoying second to last or last primer jam/flip problem. They can also be marked so you know when you're getting to the end.

Great press! I loaded 200 45s on a 550 before buying the L'n'L - best decision I've made yet in the reloading dept.
/Bryan
 
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