FYI, both Glock and Lone Wolf barrels have .355" groove diameter and .356" diameter lead bullets that are .001" over should work fine.
I shoot Missouri Bullet 18 BHN 9mm 125 gr LRN (SmallBall) loaded to 1.100"-1.120" OAL (depending on the pistol) out of my Lone Wolf barrels with W231/HP-38/
Promo with good results. (I used
Alliant 2004 load data provided by Steve C for Promo testing).
BTW, 2004 Alliant load data shows 5.5 gr as max (1139 fps - 31700 PSI out of 4" barrel) for Unique with 125 lead bullet at 1.15" OAL (load data just shows "L" so not sure what the bullet nose profile used was). There is no published lead load data for Unique and 9mm in the
2011 Alliant load data so the usual THR disclaimer/warning applies here if you are using the new "reformulated cleaner burning" Unique and older 2004 load data.
Steve K, I would recommend your friend remove the FCD and reload with just 3 dies to see if things improve with the following:
- For .356" diameter lead bullet, taper crimp should be .020" over = .376"
- Determine the max OAL by dropping a dummy round (no powder/primer) in the Lone Wolf chamber that will freely drop and spin without touching the rifling
- Determine the ideal OAL by feeding/chambering from the magazine and manually releasing the slide
- Load 10 rounds of each powder charge beginning at the start charge and work up towards max in .1-.2 gr powder increments
Your friend should be able to identify the OAL/powder charge that produces the most accurate shot groups with minimal/no leading. Once that OAL/powder charge is determined, put the FCD back in and reload to the same OAL/powder charge. If the accuracy/leading suffers, then tell your friend to leave the FCD in the die box and reload without it (What I tell all the new reloaders I help setup).
You may not be able to shoot the same load in the factory Glock barrel with same results as LW barrel because the Glock barrel has longer leade (space the bullet "jumps" from the case neck to the start of the rifling) and more hot high pressure gas will leak around the bullet and blow the liquefied lube from the surface of the bullet and out the barrel leaving the bullet "naked" without lube to seal the bullet to the barrel resulting in gas cutting/bullet base erosion and fouling/lead smearing at the chamber end of the barrel. Also, Glock rifling is much smoother "rounded" hill/valley than traditional "sharp square" land/groove and the barrel has polished finish/coating, which all results in the lead bullet less able to grip the rifling and "skid/slide" down the barrel rather than rotate with the rifling if pushed too hard (ask me how I know
) so a separate load workup is warranted if poor accuracy/leading results.
Have your friend test fire the load determined from above steps and see what the results are. If the accuracy/leading suffers, he will need to repeat the same steps for the Glock barrel and end up with two different OAL/powder charge loads for each barrel.
Also, as rcmodel and I normally recommend when shooting lead loads in Glock barrels, even with the ideal OAL/powder charge loads due to the reasons mentioned above, more gas cutting and fouling/lead smearing tends to buildup at the chamber end of the barrel to warrant inspection after 200-300 rounds or so and cleaning of this buildup as necessary. I take a mini cleaning kit to the range with me if I plan on shooting a lot of lead rounds out of my Glock barrels (Lone Wolf barrels will usually stay clean for the duration of the typical range session).
I hope this helped.