Horus Vision Scopes for Long Range Rifle Work

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Anthony

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Hello Everyone,

I'm trying to decide on a pair of tactical scopes for my Springfield Armory M-1A and newly acquired Savage tactical rifle in .300 Winchester Magnum.

Bullet drop compensation is a feature that I want and the Leupold tactical scopes are limited to a single load like most other tactical scopes on the market. Except for the Horus Vision system, I have been told. As I have never seen the Horus system demonstrated I am looking for opinions from those who have used it.

How easy is the system to learn?

What equipment is required to make it work?

Does the Horus system limit you to one loading like the traditional tactical scopes?

Is their reticle something you can have added to a Leupold scope or do you have to buy a Horus scope?

If you have to buy a Horus scope to get their reticle, how does the quality of their optics compare to Leupold and other high quality scopes?

Thank you for your input.
 
Let's just deal with elevation adjustment to make this discussion easier.

There are basically two ways to adjust for elevation in the long range rifle game:

1. use the elevation knob to "dial" elevation

2. use marks in the reticle as hold-over points

You can also use a combination of the two methods, but let's just deal with one or the other for now.

When the elevation knob is used to dial elevation (method #1), each "click" of the turret corresponds to one unit of angular measurement. Typical values as 0.25 MOA, 0.5 MOA, 1 MOA, or 0.1 MIL. The Leupold M1 series is 0.25 MOA; the M3 is 1 MOA; the new M2 (on the 1.5-5x) is 0.5 MOA. Nightforce scopes are generally 0.25 MOA. Schmit & Bender offer 0.25 MOA and 0.1 MIL. US Optics offer 0.25, 0.5, and 0.1 MIL as far as I know.

To "dial" elevation, you first range the target using whatever method you want. Having your spotter shoot a Laser Range Finder (LRF, such as the Leica LRF1200) at the target is a great way to get this number. Then you consult the trajectory table for your load & rifle. This table is indexed by range and tells you how much elevation is required for each distance. You dial this elevation amount on the elevation knob, and then use the primary reticle aiming point (ie, the crosshairs).

Here's the data-card I use with my AR10 for our Sporting Rifle Matches in Raton:
Code:
* 168gr FGMM  2575fps  
 sight 5000'   shoot 6800'
      ELEV  10 WIND  WIND"
z109zz0.00zzz0.50zzz0.6z
*200**1.50***1.25***2.6*  WIND
 220  2.00   1.25   3.1   from
 240  2.50   1.50   3.7   LEFT
 260  3.00   1.50   4.4   dial
 280  3.50   1.75   5.2   LEFT
*300**4.25***2.00***6.0*
 320  4.75   2.00   6.8  
 340  5.50   2.25   7.7 
 360  6.00   2.25   8.7  
 380  6.75   2.50   9.8  
*400**7.25***2.50**10.9*
 420  8.00   2.75  12.2  
 440  8.75   3.00  13.4  
 460  9.50   3.00  14.8  
 480 10.25   3.25  16.2  

*500*10.75***3.50**17.8* 
 520 11.75   3.50  19.4  WIND
 540 12.50   3.75  21.0  from
 560 13.25   4.00  22.8  RIGHT
 580 14.00   4.00  24.7  dial
*600*14.75***4.25**26.6* RIGHT
 620 15.75   4.50  28.6
 640 16.50   4.50  30.8
 660 17.50   4.75  33.0
 680 18.25   5.00  35.4
*700*19.25***5.25**37.7*
 720 20.25   5.25  40.2
 740 21.00   5.50  42.8
 760 22.00   5.75  45.5
 780 23.00   6.00  48.4
*800*24.25***6.00**51.3*
A variant of the "dial" method is when instead of consulting your ballistic card, you have marks on your elevation knob which indicate which position corresponds to which range for the load you're shooting. So the number of clicks required for 300 yards might have a "3" or "300" marked on the knob at that position. These are called "BDC" or "BDC cams" and are specific to a certain load out of a specific caliber and barrel length.


The second method is to use marks in the reticle for hold-over. This method is identical to the "dial" method, except that once you consult your ballistic table, you are given a position in the reticle "below" the primary aiming point which demarks the amount of angular hold-over required for that range. Similar to the BDC cam, the reticle can have identifying marks in the reticle to tell you which hash-mark corresponds to "300 yards" and so forth.

A mil-dot reticle can be used with the second method ("reticle BDC") because the mil-dots below the primary cross-hair demark one mil per each, but it's kind of a coarse measurement.

The Horus reticles have a matrix of mil measurements below the primary aiming point, which makes them particularly well-suited to the second method ("reticle BDC"), except that you have to know how your load shoots in tenth of a mil measurements. On most of the Horus-equipped scopes, you can also dial elevation, or use a combination. The Horus reticle will really come into its element when engaging multiple targets at multiple distances "on the clock", or when shooting distant movers.

Hope this helps
Zak

ETA:

I realized I missed a couple questions. The Horus system is NOT tied to one load. Even Leupold M3 (1MOA) click knobs with the BDC on them are not tied to one load; you'd just ignore the yardage/meter markings if using a different load.

Most of the scopes you can get the Horus for will be as good or better than the Leupold. This is true for the US Optics and SB; I don't know about the others. But bring lots of $$$.
 
The gunzine writer who plugs Horus scopes has furnished a friend of mine two to try out. I am not a serious long range shooter but he is and we have discussed it and I have seen him shoot with one out to 600 yards.

It looks darned complicated, even as mil systems go. You would have to live with it for a while to get used to it and get your brain calibrated in mils instead of minutes. They do package deals with a PDA and wind meter to help you figure out what all the hash marks are doing. My guy seems to be homing in on the essentials by now.

You don't have to have the Palm Pilot and Kestrel, full instructions with range charts for common loads and instructions for making your own are included.

The Horus is not limited on ammo. You just have to establish the trajectory for your ammo/rifle and know how many mils on the reticle scale are required for the range and wind you have for the shot.

The Horus reticle is etched on glass and I don't think it could be installed in a Leupold or other scope aftermarket. The Horus scopes are good instruments.

There are several different Horus reticle patterns. The principles are the same but they differ in detail. Read the offerings and get the one suited to your interests.
 
Horus reticles can be installed to USO scope, and I think also retrofitted later.

On the H25 reticle with the 0.2mil ticks, your largest vertical error will be 0.1mil, or 5cm at 500m, if you "round up/down" to the next tick mark for elevation.
 
What I undersdtand is H25 reticle can be had on several differant scope brands, including Leupold. Having been watching these for some time and have watched the price go up as well.
 
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