How Did The Commies Fight With Corrosive Ammo?

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Also, I'm sure 80 or 90% of the cleaning they or you or I can do is accompolished with the first 20% of the effort.

I've discovered that, I don't care that much to make my 74 spotless but enough so it doesn't rust.
 
Standard issue Russian and Soviet individual oil bottles had two separate compartments, marked with Cyrillic letters Щ and Н, which stood for Щелочное масло (Alkaline oil) and Нейтральное масло (Neutral oil), respectively

oil_rus.jpg

You use Alkaline oil for cleaning out the residue out of the bore and bolt, wipe it with cloth, then use neutral oil for lubrication and rust prevention.
 
Standard issue Russian and Soviet individual oil bottles had two separate compartments, marked with Cyrillic letters Щ and Н, which stood for Щелочное масло (Alkaline oil) and Нейтральное масло (Neutral oil), respectively

Thanks! I have always wondered what the markings meant and what they were used for.
 
Standard issue Russian and Soviet individual oil bottles had two separate compartments, marked with Cyrillic letters Щ and Н, which stood for Щелочное масло (Alkaline oil) and Нейтральное масло (Neutral oil), respectively

oil_rus.jpg

You use Alkaline oil for cleaning out the residue out of the bore and bolt, wipe it with cloth, then use neutral oil for lubrication and rust prevention.
Would baking soda in water be a reliable alkali solution or should one mix it in oil?
 
also with out moisture you won't get rust, and when it -40 things get pretty dry

Took the words right out of my mouth :)
Also the rate of the corrosion reaction slows down with low temperature.

I think its also another reason I'm not sure the Russians have ever completely quit on using corrosive primers, they are supposed to be more reliable in extreme cold. All the corrosive 5.45x39 out their shows they were still making in int he 80s & maybe early 90s, and maybe still are for all we know.
 
...coughT-34cough...

Yeah, yeah. That's the last time I try to post when I'm too tired to see the keyboard. They did make a bunch of T-72 tanks. But they didn't show up until about 30 years after Stalingrad.
 
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If you want alkaline oil for cleaning corrosive use Ballistol 1:10 with water. It emulsifies in water and leaves a slight oily film if you let the water dry.

I've gone thru several cases of corrosive Yugo M67. I clean with either soapy water or Ballistol solution, dry, then oil. No problems with rust even when the humidity is 100% (wet side of Oregon) where I live.

BSW
 
If corrosive ammo wasn't a problem why are the bores of Mosin-Nagants so dark and with pitting?Note also that most M-1 rifles from ww2 have been rebarreled,while most M-1 carbines which used non-corrosive ammo have their original barrels.
 
If corrosive ammo wasn't a problem why are the bores of Mosin-Nagants so dark and with pitting?Note also that most M-1 rifles from ww2 have been rebarreled,while most M-1 carbines which used non-corrosive ammo have their original barrels.
Likely because:
.30 CARBINE
Note: All (U.S.) .30 Carbine Ammunition made during WWII and after is NON-CORROSIVE
(regardless of manufacturer)!

With a focus on priming the same can't be said of all US manufactured small arms ammunition during and prior to WW II. This is a pretty good read on the transition between corrosive and non-corrosive ammunition of US manufacture. Also, as to bore conditions the storage techniques used played an important roll in preserving the overall metal condition of the rifles. Here in the US there were considerable procedures written and abided by for the proper storage of small arms.

Ron
 
George, check out Finnish Mosins, they generally have bright bores yet fired corrosive ammo. I've seen many Soviet Mosins with bright bores, too. More to the point, there are decades of shooters here that attest to shooting with corrosive and explain the ease of cleaning. It's no big deal.
 
Most Mosins eneter this country with brite shiney bores, as they were refurnished after WWII, just like our Garands were in Holland, Italy and Korea, as well as here inthe U.S.

If the bore is dark and pitted, it didnt arrive here from Finland or Russia or the Ukrain, as they have only sold us their stored rifles.
I bought Finn 91's, M-24's, M28's, m-27 inearly 90's, and not One of them had a spot oof rust outside or inside they restricted by the Soviets after WWII in arms and military size that they only kept the best bores, and to hell with the rest, as some looked like they were in fires, shrapnel hits, blood stains, but perfect bores and no outside rust.
The more recent M-44s and 91/30's all went through referrb and were stored with bores that were examined and graded, and either left alone, rebarrled or scrapped. The Soviets stored them for wwIII and since the Union broke up, the countries that troed the rifles sell 'em here.
If you find a Mosin with pits or darkness, it was most likely done here by an idiot who didnt clean it, if not , its most likely a war trophy, check the end of the barrel for an importers mark if theres none on the reciver.
There werre Mosin incountry before 1968 , and they broughtin some wacked ones all right, but the vast majority of the rifles encounterd are surplussed to this country from storage in another, and the barrels are usuall very good.
 
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