how do you avoid flash rust when pan drying?

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I posted that, which became a sticky. I've been shooting cap and ball revolvers since about 1970. Since that time, I've used hot, soapy water to clean them, followed by 15 minutes in the oven at very low temp to drive out any moisture.
I take exception to your calling me an, "idiot." You may disagree with me, but there's no place for such name-calling here.
If you're finding rust in the bore after the oven treatment, you either didn't shake off the excess moisture or run a patch or scrap of paper towel down the bore before placing in the oven.
None of my cap and ball revolvers exhibit any sort of rust after all these years. After removing the parts from the oven, I coat them liberally with olive oil. Some of my little-used revolvers have kept for years without a speck a rust, given this treatment.
But then, I live in the remote Utah desert where humidity is usually low -- but not always. Frequent thunderstorms can raise humidity to 70 or 80 percent at times.
Some folks disagree -- vehemently -- with using water of any temperature to clean.
I use what has worked for me for decades.
 
Water has not and will never touch my revolvers with all of their nooks and crannies, and I am always kind of amazed that folks in this day and age still rely on something as primitive as water to clean their guns when there are products, IMHO, that work as well or better and are far less likely to introduce rust into the situation. These water people say there is no rust in their guns and I have to believe what they say; all I know is that steel + water = rust. I only load five chambers when carrying, I wear my seatbelt when driving, and I don't use water to clean my guns; I figure better safe than sorry.

Two excellent products to consider are Ballistol (short for "Ballistic Oil") and Hoppe's Elite Black Powder solvent, among many others. Ballistol was invented in Germany based on an old BP cleaner and is a thorough all-round cleaner and rust-protectant. Hoppe's Elite is a newer product and is an excellent choice as well. Either will clean your guns and help keep them rust-free. And modern solvents work well in the field, too, where an oven or dishwasher or space heater aren't available to help get rid of all of that nasty old water. ;)

Clean the rust from your piece as described above with WD40 and 0000 steel wool, clean and lube it with Ballistol and never look back.

Just a different opinion from the other side of the cleaning fence...
 
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UglyCat said:
I take exception to your calling me an, "idiot."
If it helps you sleep at night, I recanted my statement earlier. But by all means, take all the exception you like - I'm giving them away free today.
 
Sounds like you may not have removed excess water, or that the temp was too high. Never used an oven myself for this, but Gatofeo's explanation sounds perfectly reasonable to me. No need to get into name calling and such. Some folks have a different definition of "rust" than others. One man's patina is another man's rust.
 
I didn't know there was such a fuss being made over something so simple as cleaning a BP weapon, it's not rocket science after all. I clean them the way my father did, and his father did, and several more generations before him did, boiling water,soap, scrubbing, and oiling. There are no rusty relics in my collection and I shoot the hell out of them from my flinters to BP cartridge arms, originals and repops, smoothies, rifles, pistols or what have you. I pay attention to them, and they do not sit without my weekly inspection or I pack them away in cosmoline, real cosmoline, for long term storage. I use boiling water to clean a very large collection of military surplus modern cartridge arms as well when I have shot them with corrosive primed ammo, no rust problems ever in over 30 years. I am sure there are all sorts of modern wonder cleaning products on the market now, and I am sure they work just fine, but I stick with the way I was taught by the Old Timers years ago, it works, and costs me little to nothing in materials.
I never heard about the stove thing before, I know about the Baker rifle but never saw anybody bake one :) Parts heated with boiling water are hot enough I have to use a oven glove to hold them, from the oven they must be some hard to handle.
 
There wouldn't have been a fuss if it weren't for the sticky. I would have cleaned them like any of my other guns (and will from now on) but I trusted the sticky since I was new to BP and I learned a valuable lesson - everyone on the internet is an 'expert'. As far as I'm concerned, the topic is closed.

Mods, do yo thang.
 
We make small parts for industry, we are a small mom-n-pop CNC shop, Most of our parts used to be stainless, and we still make a lot of stainless parts, but now a good percentage of our parts are carbon steel.
Rust on our parts is death, even rust down deep in tapped holes, it acnnot be tolerated.

My first inclination, years ago, was to soak slightly rusted parts in Ospho, dilute phosphoric acid, then rinse them off in water, and dry them in the oven and oil them.

A few years ago I came to the conclusion that the oven is the "perfect storm". Oxidation always occurs faster at elevated temperatures, and especially when the humidity is high. The oven provides both conditions.

We currently dry parts with air blast, the oven would be fine if it were provided with an inert atmosphere, like nitrogen. The concept of driving all moisture out and replacing it with oil is sound, but adding heat and moisture simultaneously is a disaster.
 
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