How do you break in your barrel?

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I'm glad to see all the responses and get a lot of good, thought provoking discussion. It's exactly why I asked the question. I mostly shoot from the bench nowadays and my interests are more toward sub-moa accuracy and shooting at 600 yards than toward deer hunting. 35 years ago I never worried too much about barrel break-in. In fact, I never heard too much about it. The guns I shot back then weren't out-of-the-box moa accurate and at that time 1" groups at 100 yards accuracy was kind of the holy grail. In the last 10-15 years that I've gotten more into benchrest shooting and paid more attention to details, one of them being barrel break-in procedures and whether it really is necessary or makes any significant improvement in accuracy. Apparently there is a great difference in opinion. I haven't been able to draw any definite conclusions about whether barrel break-in is science or superstition, but here is my current thinking on the subject -- The whole fire one shot and clean for the first 10 rounds, etc., may or may not be effective but it sure can't hurt anything.
 
The thing about it is, the custom barrel maker is not necessarily the one who cuts the chamber. Matter of fact he likely isn't. So, he has no control over the condition of the reamer and how the barrel is throated. You can have the most pristine barrel in the world and have a burr left by the rifle builder.
 
jcwit said:
Post a picture of a target!

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Top target was one of four competition targets. Both at 100 yards with a Ruger 10/22 with a properly broken-in barrel, in other words, shot until accuracy degrades then cleaned.

This is the gun, except the scope pictured was replaced with a BSA Sweet .22.

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Not a bad group for a 10/22 but sorry to say that wouldn't even place at our benchrest compition here in So. Michigan, in both smallbore or center fire. I have no photos in my camera, so am unable to post pictures but will in the future if my old brain can remember.

I looking over some of my records I find 100 yd groups .125 center to center fired from a Rem. 700 vls in .223 cal. Also groups measuring .135 center to center from a H & R M12 using S/K Jaeg Target Match ammo at 50 yds and groups .282 center to center from a Rem M540XR using RWS Target ammo at 100 yds.

Furthermore try shooting for score and not for group using the American Rimfire Assoc., 25 bull target, placing 1 shot per bull. Shooting thus will really show the skill level of both the shooter and his equipment.
 
The funny thing about all these 'break-in' threads all over the internet...

The way some of these guys get so venemous about it.
It's curious that they care so much about other people's habits.

Frankly, it's your business what decision you make regarding breaking in your own rifles.
My opinions (and my guns) are only precious to me, not to you.



The important thing is to go out there and do whatever you wish to do.
 
Seems like I hear about a lot of different theories and methods regarding barrel break-in. What are your thoughts about barrel break-in? Is it really necessary? How do you do it?
I shoot 250 rounds on a Center fire and clean with JB Bore Cleaner. I shoot 500 rounds through a 22 rimfire and clean the bore with JB.
 
have to agree with navy-lcdr. if you can tell me how these break in procedures change the structural or molecular steel the barrel is make of,maybe i will reconsider. but to each his own.
 
On a factory rifle,I just clean it before shooting it,and don't worry about a break-in.On my custom barrels,I clean it first,then shoot it once,patch it out ,shoot again,patch it out,and continue until I don't get any copper out.That is usually around seven or eight shots.This is not very expensive or time consuming.You can also use these shots as part of your sight-in,or the beginning of your load development,so nothing is really wasted.I really don't know if this is necessary,or helpful,I just do it.After the cost of the barrel,the gunsmithing charges,and the wait,eight shots is not very much. Lightman
 
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