How do you clean a target rifle?

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Axis II

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I recently had a debate with a buddy on how to clean a rifle and wondering what you guys do.

I usually run a bronze brush with hopps benchrest and a bore guide and run the brush in and out of the barrel about 5 times and then a dry patch in one of the loop attachments until its clean and then a soaked wet patch down the bore several times and let sit for about 5-10min and then dry patches until its clean. He told me i shouldn't use the brush or the patch attachment with the loop but use a bronze cleaning jag. To finish up i put a few drops of MPRO 7 on the bolt and guide rails for the bolt and done.

Wont the metal jag be bad if it comes in contact with the rifling? He says the hoop patch puller just drags everything back through the barrel when it should be pushed out. Kind of makes sense.

Will the bronze brush really hurt the barrel?
 
According to information supplied by barrel makers, bronze brushes are perfectly safe for bore cleaning. Use a quality carbon fiber or polymer coated 1 piece rod and you'll be fine.

I like to use a ribbed spear-tip and a tight fitting wet patch to scrub the first 6 inches of the bore, then alternate wet and dry patches breech to muzzle til the patches are clean. I don't normally bust out the brush unless the patches are taking longer than normal to get clean.

The loop style jags are nice for applying solvent if your patches are a bit too tight. Sometimes a spear-tip will leave most of your solvent in the boreguide or your chamber, of course you can always just use a smaller patch.
 
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I foam the bore with gunslick foaming bore cleaner, wait 10 minutes, then push it out with a patch on a brass jag, then another dry patch, and done. If the gun will be stored for a long time I also do an oiled patch.
 
What kind of rifle are you calling a target rifle?
The one i use to shoot at paper targets the most. :)

All comments aside i have a heavy barrel 223rem i use mainly for shooting woodchucks and paper. Not a "target rifle" but that's what it gets used the most as and try everything to squeeze all the accuracy out of it.
 
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I also noticed that i have a lot of solvent in the chamber area and have to use a larger patch or bore mop to sop it up. I thought the bore guide helped with that?

To clarify for those who need the info to be helpful. The rifle i am referring to is my varmint rifle (223rem) that i shoot a lot at paper trying different bullets, powders, primers, etc so it sees a lot of rounds out of all my rifles and i want to 1) keep it in tip top shape and 2) make sure the way i'm cleaning it wont diminish accuracy by damaging the barrel, crown, etc.
 
I start with the slotted tip with a soaked patch of either bore cleaner or copper solvent, depending on situation. I let sit for 5-10 minutes then give it a good brushing. Then follow with dry,wet,dry etc, till they come out clean. Then one with a light oil. The patches I currently have are a little too thick for the jag.
 
I should also note that I use a jag about 1 or 2 sizes to small with a patch about 1 or 2 sizes too big to get a bit better absorption. A 17 caliber rod and jag with about a 1-1/4 cotton patch works nice in a 223. I'm not against brushing a bore, I just haven't really found it helpful since finding the right cleaners.
 
About the only thing you don't want to do is shove a rod, especially a multi-jointed one, in the muzzle and go at it like a butter churn....Clean from the beach and use a bore guide and you won't go wrong....And clean your rod often. I use a polished brass one on my rimfire benchrest guns and occasionally polish it with fine metal polish to remove any embedded dirt from the metal.
 
About the only thing you don't want to do is shove a rod, especially a multi-jointed one, in the muzzle and go at it like a butter churn....Clean from the beach and use a bore guide and you won't go wrong....And clean your rod often. I use a polished brass one on my rimfire benchrest guns and occasionally polish it with fine metal polish to remove any embedded dirt from the metal.
I learned that a few years ago when someone seen me do that. Now i use the bore guide, a one piece rod with rubber coating on it but its a cheap one, idk if that matters?
 
Use a bore guide.
Use a polished SS or coated one piece rod.
Brush it with a phosphor bronze brush, never reverse it in the bore. Don't over do it.
Run a couple of wet patches through, dropping them off when they exit the barrel.
Run some dry patches through, dropping them off when they exit the barrel.
Some folks screw the brush off each time it exits the bore and then screw it back on after pulling the rod back out so as not to pull the brush back over the crown.

Don't over do any of it.
 
Use a bore guide.
Use a polished SS or coated one piece rod.
Brush it with a phosphor bronze brush, never reverse it in the bore. Don't over do it.
Run a couple of wet patches through, dropping them off when they exit the barrel.
Run some dry patches through, dropping them off when they exit the barrel.
Some folks screw the brush off each time it exits the bore and then screw it back on after pulling the rod back out so as not to pull the brush back over the crown.

Don't over do any of it.[/QUOTE
uh, oh! I've over done all of that. I put the brush in through the bore guide and go back and forth with it and back and forth with the patches. I can still put 5 shots in MOA but I've gotten the rifle to shoot 3-5 shots in one hole, now they touch but not the same exact hole. I just started brushing in the last 200-300rounds so could this cause a severe issue? I figured brushing would help get the copper and other crud out and help with accuracy.
 
These days it's better to let chemistry do most of the work.
Start out with a bronze bore brush on a one-piece stainless steel or carbon fiber rod.
You can use a button jag, or the Parker-Hale type that's a long rod with triangular "teeth" with a patch wrapped around it length-wise.
Either will do a better job then a loop type jag.

Brush no more then 5 to 8 passes max, using a bore solvent. A "pass" is down the bore and back out.
Contrary to popular belief, pushing or pulling a bore brush in only one direction serves no purpose and has no effect on the barrel.
If it makes you feel better to do so, have at it.

Run two clean patches soaked with bore solvent straight through and let soak about 30 minutes.
(NOTE: Read the label on the solvent. Some like Hoppe's #9 can be left in for days, some of the harsh copper solvents can damage a barrel and shouldn't be left more then 30 minutes. Some solvents have different directions on how to use them....read the label).

After soaking run a clean, soaked patch straight through the bore and out the end. Inspect the patch for blue or green copper staining.
Don't "pump" the patch up and down and don't push it down the bore and pull it back. This causes the staining on the patch to fade and look like it's not fouled as bad.
If you see any stains, allow to soak longer.

Repeat until a patch comes out without any stains.

Dry with two patches, then apply a few drops of a lube and run through to deposit a thin coat of lube to prevent rust.

"Pumping" patches up and down the bore does no good. A cotton patch isn't an abrasive and won't "polish" a bore or abrade copper or lead fouling,
A patch is intended to carry clean solvent into the bore and dirty solvent out.

Most people use a bore brush way too many times, and pump patches up and down thinking it's doing something.
The entire "secret" is giving the bore solvent time to work to attack and remove the fouling, whether it's carbon or copper fouling.
 
Chamber to muzzle, bore guide and dewey or outers one piece coated rod for bolt gun, or otis cable if gas gun. 1 pass with patch soaked in MPRO7 or shooter's choice, 1 pass with nylon solvent soaked brush. Then passes with solvent damped patches. Patches go on a brass jag on the rod for bolt guns, or looped in the brass patch holder on the otis for gas gun. Run patches until they are only "slightly" dirty- meaning most nasty black stuff is out. The method taught in sniper school. I've been doing it this way for 20+ years with no issues.
 
Target rifle cleaning is as individual as the shooter. I know one F Class shooter, she is a National Champ in multiple categories, she claims her fouled barrels shoot tighter than cleaned ones and that she sees a clean barrel settling in. Her husband, who is her gunsmith, ammo loader, believes otherwise and it is a source of tension if he cleans the barrel.

I know Smallbore Prone shooters who clean "when the barrel tells them". I also see very good Smallbore prone shooters who clean at the end of the match, every day, before they pack everything up. In four day matches, (called 6400) I will clean the barrel out after the second day. Can't tell one way or another if it makes a difference. I drop shots due to poor position, bad wind calls, and jerking the trigger.

Everyone who cleans a rifle barrel uses a bore guide. I am aware of one Smallbore Prone National Champion who damaged his barrel, as a junior, by not using a bore guide. You want to keep the cleaning rod from rubbing the interior of the barrel. I don't recall seeing someone not using a brush, but it does not have to be a bronze brush, could be some nylon ones. I used bronze brushes and a bore guide on my centerfire rifles, sometimes I use a bronze brush or a nylon brush on a rimfire. Just how I feel. I can feel less resistance after a couple of strokes when brushing with a bronze brush. I don't know if I am actually pushing anything out or if the brush is getting smaller.

I have been told that if the accuracy in your centerfire barrel goes south, to clean with JB Bore Paste. Frank of Compass Lake says he sees compacted gunk in the throat, stuff that won't dissolve, stuff that has to be mechanically removed. He also said he had examples of fouled barrels that shot poorly until Bore Paste removed the gunk. I recommend using JB Bore paste sparingly as it is an abrasive.

Something that ought to be addressed is lubrication. Whether of not you clean the barrel of your rifle, you need to oil or grease the firing pin cocking cam. I have seen one, maybe two, Anschutz rifles that bound up because the cocking cam was not well lubricated. I am aware of one guy who dry fires the heck out of his rifles, they were Remington M700's, and he has worn out the nose of firing pin cocking piece noses, and I assume, also worn out the cocking cam in the bolt. I recommend grease for this area, I have been using Moly grease, there might be better, but you need to get the friction down.

In so far as cleaning the trigger mechanism, read the manufacturer's literature. A bud of mine, his $350.00 two stage trigger locked up. It would not reset. It was not a Jewel, I forget the brand. He had been cleaning it as through it was a Jewel. Jewel recommends lighter fluid. Bud's trigger, if you pour lighter fluid into the mechanism, it stays and prevents trigger reset. Bud found this out from the manufacturer. Bud took the trigger apart (I don't know how far) and got all lighter fluid and oil out, and his trigger works fine.

Based on discussions with Bullseye Shooters, I am keeping the sear surfaces of my 1911's and M41's well oiled. I am using LSA, a semi fluid grease, which has remarkable adherence to surfaces. These sear surfaces wear in these pistols and I want to get the most use out of mine, before I have to replace them. AMU shooters told me they wear out sears about once to twice a year, but they are firing around 7500 rounds a month.

I have seen Bullseye National Champions pushing a cleaning rod down the barrel every ten shots. They believe that if they don't, accuracy will deteriorate. Generally speaking, Bullseye shooters keep their pistols clean and well lubricated. It is not enough to just clean the barrel. Bullseye shooters shoot the lightest loads that reliably function the pistol, and, are accurate at the desired range. (I have loads that are accurate at 25 yards but not 50 yards). Regardless, dirty pistols won't cycle reliably. Bullseye shooters usually add a drop of oil on the barrel end every ten shots. And you will often see them adding more oil to the rails and cycling the slide at some point in the match. I was told an old adage about lubrication: " the elbow is the drip point"

Firearms are machines, they function better when clean and lubricated, cleaning is not all about the barrel, don't forget the rest of the mechanism.
 
Wont the metal jag be bad if it comes in contact with the rifling?
Keep in mind that the barrel of your rifle is steel, and usually high grade at that. The difference in Brinell hardness between brass and even mild steel is significant; jags are usually made of brass, brushes of bronze, neither of which come close to hardened steel. I use Butch's Bore Shine to saturate the barrel for a few minutes, then brush, then flannel patches until they come out relatively clean. I have also used a chamber plug (available for your caliber at Brownell's) when I want to truly soak the barrel for 10-15 min. before brushing. The debate over shooting out of a dirty barrel or not goes on, but I was taught to clean my guns after use; the only exception is my 10/22, which I will let go for a few sessions before cleaning, and invariably I get consistent grouping after that barrel has had a hundred or so rounds through it. Dunno if its a rimfire/lead bullet thing with the Ruger, but my Howa 1500 .223 must be clean to shoot consistently well. HTH.
 
Run two clean patches soaked with bore solvent straight through and let soak about 30 minutes.
Yep, I don't wait that long, but I did leave out the let it soak a bit between running the wet patches through and using the dry ones. Wet the brush, use it, wet a couple of patches, use them, let it sit a bit, use the dry patches. How long to let it sit varies a lot as well when asking folks.
 
If I am trying to get out copper, I use Hoppes Benchrest #9 and follow the instructions to leave the bore wet with it over night.
 
this is the subject of much debate, however, i will attempt to separate it out into useful categories (specific to precision rifles)

THINGS YOU ABSOLUTELY SHOULD DO
-use a bore guide and the correct diameter coated, one-piece rod, and wipe the rod off each time you use it
-let a solvent do most of the work
-clean from chamber to muzzle

THINGS THAT YOU ABSOLUTELY SHOULD NOT DO
-let solvents sit in the barrel more than 15-20 min (read the jar of your particular solvent)
-use boresnakes
-let anything hit the crown (most commonly, as you yank the rod out, the jag is laying on the bottom of the barrel and pings the crown) or drag on the crown (see boresnakes, which while soft, have lots of hard carbon and crap embedded in them and can thus become quite abrasive)


THINGS THAT ARE CONTENTIOUS
-one of the major things is whether you believe you should leave copper in your bore and clean out the fouling, or leave fouling in your bore and clean out the copper. I hold with the latter and think the former is mostly done by people who can't see the difference in large deviations in velocity.
either way, this will guide to some extent, your choice of solvent and when and how you clean

-using brushes. keep in mind that the outer surface of the bore isn't just "steel" but steel that has been affected by both chemical and extreme heat. its structure has been changed. (the sniper101 video on this topic is excellent) further remember that you're not just rubbing a bronze brush on it, but all the carbon and crap, some of which may be harder than you think. that said, while I have never felt the need to use brushes, i don't think using clean ones is that big of a deal.

-how often you clean depends on what your objective is. if it's a plinking gun, you can clean any time you want. if you need to be able to hit the next target with some confidence, then you need consistency in cleaning. that either means you need to clean a LOT (like every 10-20 rounds or so), or rarely and then foul it back in after cleaning. you'll generally find the PRS crowd in the "rarely clean" camp.

-how many times to brush, how many patches to use, etc. you'll get different responses to this, i believe, largely because people's barrels are in different states. if one person goes 20 rounds between cleaning and another goes 500, it may take more brushing/patching etc to clean the latter. but they'll both hop on the internet and tell you how that method works for them. you'll just have to see what works for you. personally, i run one wet patch of solvent, wait 10 minutes, then 3-4 dry patches until they come out mostly clean and all dry, but all i'm doing is removing copper and i go hundreds of rounds between cleaning.

-which brand of solvent. some are better than others. some are harsher than others. most of the popular brands work ok. but like most things, there's a very low signal to noise ratio on the internet.
 
I've heard a lot of competitive shooter give really specific cleaning regimens and techniques and cite that "that's what everyone at the match is doing ." One thing I've noticed in drag racing is if someone is going fast everyone else starts watching and trying to copy all the little routines and rituals that other guy is doing even if they don't understand what the heck they're doing or if it's the right thing for their setup. Pretty soon everyone is doing it because nobody wants to be the only one not doing it.

When me and my dad used to fish as a kid if enough people saw us catching and came to fish by us we would slowly troll off into 60 feet of water and throw some markers overboard then back off to watch everyone fight over that spot like seagulls.
 
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I don't use copper solvent when bronze brushes are in action. It eats the brushes and isn't at effective at eat the copper in the bore (especially when you dunk the brush into the bottle).

I use patches with copper solvent and something along the CLP line when I'm brushing out powder residues.
 
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