How do you use CLP?

[Lone_Gunman]

I bought some in an aerosol can to give a try, and it comes out kind of foamy and difficult to work with. How are you supposed to use this stuff exactly? Spray it directly onto the gun?

Do you use anything else after CLP?

Is the liquid form better than the aerosol?

 

[Ol` Joe]

I`ve only used the regular bottled stuff not the spray, but it`s always just went on a patch and used the same as any other oil.

 

[Lone_Gunman]

Do you use it as a one-step cleaner? Just wipe everything with CLP and call it clean? or do you use a lubricant also?

I know CLP stands for clean, lube, protect, but does it really do all three of these things fine?

 

[loadedround]

I have both bottled and spray CLP. I use it after by bore and internal parts are cleaned with Hoppes or Shooters Choice. I spray it on an old rag and use it to wipe down my guns before putting them away. I also treat the bore as a final step with a patch that I sprayed with CLP. Having said that, I believe that I will stick with the bottled product only for convenience sake. BTW, CLP also does a good job of cleaning dirt and crud from wooden stocks.

 

[Ol` Joe]

I usually use Butches Bore Shine to clean the bore and FP-10 or CLP to clean & lube the exterior of my pistols. Rifles get Wipe-Out and the same follow ups.
CLP (Break Free) works to do all three but there are other products that do specific parts of the job better. I prefer a dedicated bore cleaner and use a different product yet when heavy copper or lead fouling is present. CLP takes care of the rest just fine.

 

[bumm]

I clean my guns after every shooting session, and seldom use anything but BreakFree CLP. I use an aerosol bottle to spray a small amount on each patch when cleaning the bore, and a bottle of liquid with a tube on it for more precise lubrication. Same product, but easier to use with different delivery methods.
Marty

 

[Mortech]

I use it for bore cleaner , lube and that occasional emergency cologne use

 

[1911 guy]

All three, but not in one step.

I use Break-Free (same thing) one a few of my booms sticks. I wet some patches and scrub, wipe it dry, then apply a little bit for protection. Trying to do it all in one step would leave too much behind, methinks.

I don't like spraying stuff directly into guns since I can't control where it goes. So, I use wet patches for everything. Only exception is lighter fluid once a year on my pistols. For my money, having a can of both here at home, I'll take the liquid over the spray every time.

 

[C-grunt]

CLP works good for all three BUT it attracts dust like none other. When I was in Iraq I had my wife send me Rem Oil which is what I use on my personal weapons. The Rem Oil kept our weapons much cleaner but I dont think it works as weel for cleaning as CLP does.

 

[Justin]

I don't like the stuff that comes in the aerosol cans. They always seem to spray out five times as much as I actually need.

 

[GoBrush]

I use a lid from the top of a Mayonnaise bottle of course I got it a few years ago while they where still metal. I spray the patches with breakfree and the lid catches any thing that may drop off I can swab that up with the next patch.

When you use CLP most do not have a copper remover in them so you need to treat your barrel to a good copper cutter every once in awhile to. As copper cutter is usually more caustic I dry the barrel with a dry patch and follow up with my normal CLP cleaning.

 

[HighVelocity]

CLP = Conditions Like Pert. My hair is soft and shiny.

Seriously though, I use it to whipe down blued guns that sit in the safe. Never had any rust.

 

[Rotorflyr]

I use the areosol CLP and while I haven't found it to be "foamy" the problem I do have with the areosol (as was pointed out by Justin) is that it is hard to control the amount and one almost always ends up using more then needed.
Once this can is gone, I'll probably try something else (got the areosol as it was on sale at the time, and cheaper then anything else they had)

 

[gudel]

BreakFree CLP

How are you supposed to use this stuff exactly? Spray it directly onto the gun?
- Sometimes I spray it on the gun, spread it, and let it sit. After that I clean. I also spray it on patches when wiping metal parts and when I'm about to clean the bore.

Do you use anything else after CLP?
- No. BreakFree CLP works great for rust prevention, never had malfunction on my guns, nor do I ever need to put my guns in the freakin' oven.

Is the liquid form better than the aerosol?
- I prefer the spray bottle one, not the ones in aerosol cans.

 

[TallPine]

I've finally sorta perfected the art of just squirting a few drops of CLP. I've had the same aerosal can for several years now. ('s mise Albannach )

I may be something of a slob, but I just squirt a little bit in the barrel and run a bronze brush of the appropriate caliber up and down the bore. Sometimes the brush pick ups enough CLP to scrub out the revolver cylinder chambers, or sometimes I need a drop or two in each chamber. Usually there is enough by then on the brush to clean the cylinder face and forcing cone.

Also I put a couple drops behind the transfer bar, at the base of the hammer, on the pawl, and down the locking lug hole in the bottom of the frame, and then close the cylinder and exercise the hammer and trigger a few times to circulate the oil. Finish up with a shop rag to wipe up any drips which is more than enough to clean and oil the outside of the gun.

Since I carry every day, I've found the air compressor to be handy to take care of the dust in between shooting sessions.

 

[dfariswheel]

I prefer CLP Breakfree in the bottle since I can dispense exactly what I need.
The spray can sprays way too much and wastes too much.

One key to getting the most from CLP is to SHAKE THE DICKENS out of the container.
It settles, and if you don't shake it enough to get it well mixed, it doesn't work as well.

On the "C" or cleaner part of CLP, although this can be used as an expedient bore cleaner, it has NO effect on copper fouling.
For most guns, you still should use a standard copper fouling solvent for bore cleaning, and areas where carbon fouling has adhered.

While CLP can be used as a field "do it all" maintenance product, the "cleaning" action actually means that it helps the gun be "self cleaning".
The CLP prevents powder and carbon fouling from sticking to the parts and hardening.

It keeps the fouling soft, and allows the action to force it out of the way of moving parts.

CLP is one of the best of all of the rust preventing lubes, and applying it to guns, especially bead blasted or parkerized guns builds up a layer of Teflon on the parts, preventing rust and wear.

As a lubricant, it's about as good as anything.
In dusty environments, just use less.

 

[MadMag]

It is hard to get me sold on newer type lubes and cleaners...but I am sold on CLP. I use it mainly as a deep cleaner on auto's, and revlovers.

Example: I take of the side plate off a a revolver and use the spray to completely soak and loosen any dirt. Then I take an air hose at normaly 125 psi and air gun with no safety relief and blow the area clean. No waiting for drying and everthing looks clean and shiny. I hold the gun in a rag to take all of the excess that comes off when you hit with the air hose. The result seems to be a cleaner and smooth action than I ever had using older methods.

I think the soaking and then air gun is the trick.

 

[larry starling]

Great for frying porkchops.......No I like and use it but I kinda got my own formula I use 50/50 CLP/Mobil 1......

 

[thebaldguy]

I prefer the liquid in the bottle. With it's high flash point and teflon, it works well in a wok as oil for a stir fry...lol

I have used CLP as a cleaner, but I prefer a solvent type product such as Hoppe's # 9. But if you want to carry just one bottle that does it all, CLP works well.

 

[Moondoggie]

I use liquid CLP on a soft toothbrush to scrub all of the crevices with a liberal amount. Dip my bore brushes in it, then follow with wet patches, finally a couple of patches saturated with LSA.

I usually wrap the pistol up in a towel overnight and let it "soak" in the CLP.

Wipe off as much as I can the next day, then finish up with compressed air @ 125 psi. I also use cotton applicators (military Q Tips) in the nooks and crannies...I've got a case of several thousand of the applicators.

Last step before they go back into storage is a coat of LSA applied with a small paint brush.

Before I had a small air compressor I used ether or brake cleaner following the CLP. I liked ether better because it has more pressure.

 

[perpster]

Copper Solvents?

A number of posts suggest use of a copper solvent. What are some of the mainstays?

Specifically, is Hoppe's No. 9 a copper solvent, and is the solvent in Otis cleaning kits a copper solvent?

Thanks,
Perp

 

[Dragun]

Quote: It is hard to get me sold on newer type lubes and cleaners...but I am sold on CLP. I use it mainly as a deep cleaner on auto's, and revlovers...


Breakfree or "CLP" (pronounced clip) as we called it when i was in the army, is not "new" and not a "deep cleaner". we used it on our M16's in the early eighties, over 25 years ago as an all-in-one gun care. like some other posters have stated, it is better for the latter two "lubricates and protects", but i use a good copper remover before i use clp.

 

[Hutch]

Many good copper solvents have a considerable ammonia component, like Sweet's 7.62 solvent. It will eat the copper fouling, and if you really, really soak a barrel and leave it for days, the rumor is it will then start on eating the rifling. Caustic stuff. I prefer Marksmans Choice (now callet Shooter's Choice, or vice versa, I disremember) as it is less caustic, but requires more elbow grease. Another alternative in rifles is a mild abrasive like JB Bore Paste. I've used that to cut all the moly lube out of a barrel as well. If I were really going to worry about a little metal fouling, I'd try one of the electrostatic gizmos, like a Foul-Out.

 

[dfariswheel]

Good old Hoppe's #9 has been around about forever, and is totally safe for bores.
You can leave it in indefinitely.

Some of the more aggressive solvents like Sweet's 7.62 can damage the bore, so always read the instructions.
Among those that are safe are Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's Bench Rest Copper solvent, Accubore, and many others.
Try several, read the label, and when you find one you like, buy it in bulk.

I first got a sample of CLP Breakfree in the early 80's from a tanker.
They were issued CLP in quart spray bottles and gallon jugs to use to clean tank's 105mm main gun bores.

 

[Hemicuda]

I have my girlfriend mix it with Hoppes #9, 50/50, and use it as perfume... gets me in the mood to shoot SOMETHING...

only other thing that works as well is 114 octane "turbo-Blue racing fuel... but that's just me...